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01-19-2009, 10:24 PM | #1 |
OMG this is why you change your OIL!
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01-19-2009, 10:25 PM | #2 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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i've seen it a hundred times.
5kmile oil changes for the lose
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01-19-2009, 10:51 PM | #3 |
Drives: 07 liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: austin tx
Posts: 250
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^^^
are you serious? That's the result of never changing oil, not doing it every 5k miles. I've torn about maybe 7-8 5.0 motor's on fox stangs that my family has owned, with anywhere from 60k to 150k and none have ever looked anything like that, and they did their oil changes anywhere from 5k to 10k miles. |
01-19-2009, 11:02 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2005 Scion xB Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Black Hills of South Dakota
Posts: 1,059
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01-19-2009, 11:04 PM | #5 | ||
Start another Oil Thread!
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but seriously.. synthetic oil gets dirty at the same rate as dino oil.. ;)
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01-19-2009, 11:55 PM | #6 |
The Martian
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Honestly I think 5k is way too long to wait.
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"The lead car is absolutely unique, except for the one behind it which is identical." – F1 commentator Murray Walker. |
01-19-2009, 11:58 PM | #7 |
if you want you motor to live for ever change it every 2500 miles with regular oil.
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01-20-2009, 08:38 AM | #8 |
4AGE 20V motors left the market in 1996....... I highly doubt anyone who posted those pictures actually owned one since new until now.
OMG the sky is falling.....the sky is falling ............ Get a grip people and start thinking things through and quit over-reacting with MUD (Made Up Drama) |
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01-20-2009, 08:44 AM | #9 | ||
Start another Oil Thread!
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01-20-2009, 09:58 AM | #10 |
Drives: LB-Auto-PWR-ABS-Cruise-Springs Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 1,065
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I change my oil when the maintenance minder light comes on. Use synthetic oil and reset your maint minder light and you are good to go. Use a good filter like Napa Gold (Wix)!
BTW - Those pics are disgusting.
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Other car is a 2005 Mustang Convertible 4.0L V6 Manual - Legend Lime Get YarAss in gear! RIP - Casey Tatum |
01-20-2009, 06:33 PM | #11 |
well, I guess im the only one in the world that hasnt seen one that bad before, sorry.
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01-21-2009, 03:20 AM | #12 |
Banned
Drives: 2008 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,034
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Bought a 1982 Buick Regal with a V6. The previous owner was a hillbilly from Tennessee who was raised up before they had cars. He used horses to log.
In any case the man changed the oil every 10,000 miles whether it needed it or not. I started running Rotella through it, changing it every two thousand miles. I figured I'd slowly etch away at the crap I saw through the oil filler hole. One day the head gasket on the driver's side failed. Doubt it had anything to do with my oil treatment, more like the car was overheated a time or two before I bought it. When I pulled off the intake manifold and head it looked something like that motor you posted here, except it also had this black stuff that looked like coffee grounds. No biggie, I changed the gasket and was on my way. ...except... The damn thing would, out the blue, start to get oil starved, like the oil light would come on and the lifters would chatter. This happened a lot on hills. I put up with it for a time, getting the living heck scared out of me each time it happened. We finally figured that it happened when the motor was running "hard". One day I got inspired and took down the oil pan and found a La Brea tar pit of oil, coffee grounds, slime, wax and other crap. The oil pickup screen was two thirds clogged with coffee ground looking crap. Apparently when I did the head gasket this crap kicked lose and drifted downwards into the pan, to clog the uptake screen. I mucked out the oil pan, cleaned the uptake screen in carb cleaner (which will remove your skin if you're not careful) and put it all back together. Put in fresh oil. Never had any more problems with the car until the rear body mount bolts sheared off. I sold it some kid for scrap. The moral of the story being - change your oil! Gene |
01-21-2009, 08:30 AM | #13 |
The older GM V-6 was prone to oil passages clogging to do the small size. It was a common repair. Install a high volume oil pump too would help.
Inside the valve cover of ANY old engine just about looked that way. When I started rebuilding engines in the late 60's that picture was the "norm" and a clean engine was rare. Paint scrapers and kerosene cleaned them up quickly. There were some people that would pour kerosene into the oil and let the engine run ..... this would break up the sludge and when the oil was drained it looked like syrup. The typical "oil flush" is a kerosene based additive then drained. History is repeating itself.
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01-21-2009, 12:40 PM | #14 | ||
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Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007
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01-21-2009, 01:16 PM | #15 | |
of course I did, but
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