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Old 10-25-2013, 08:45 PM   #1
Ryze268
 
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Quick Turbo Question

Which side determines how fast a turbo will spool?

The Compressor A/R or the Turbine A/R?

The reason I ask is because I see this;

Fast Spool, 0.42 A/R Compressor, 0.86 A/R Turbine

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:04 PM   #2
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Both...but turbine is more important.
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:51 PM   #3
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Turbine A/R .. determines turbo spool up speed
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:06 PM   #4
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so ideally a small turbine is required ? What does the compressor A/R determine ?
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:40 PM   #5
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The better question is what are you trying to do
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:06 AM   #6
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straight from Garrett website:

Quote:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...housing_sizing
Compressor A/R - Compressor performance is comparatively insensitive to changes in A/R. Larger A/R housings are sometimes used to optimize performance of low boost applications, and smaller A/R are used for high boost applications. However, as this influence of A/R on compressor performance is minor, there are not A/R options available for compressor housings.

Turbine A/R - Turbine performance is greatly affected by changing the A/R of the housing, as it is used to adjust the flow capacity of the turbine. Using a smaller A/R will increase the exhaust gas velocity into the turbine wheel. This provides increased turbine power at lower engine speeds, resulting in a quicker boost rise. However, a small A/R also causes the flow to enter the wheel more tangentially, which reduces the ultimate flow capacity of the turbine wheel. This will tend to increase exhaust backpressure and hence reduce the engine's ability to "breathe" effectively at high RPM, adversely affecting peak engine power.

Conversely, using a larger A/R will lower exhaust gas velocity, and delay boost rise. The flow in a larger A/R housing enters the wheel in a more radial fashion, increasing the wheel's effective flow capacity, resulting in lower backpressure and better power at higher engine speeds.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
straight from Garrett website:
+1
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Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:44 PM   #8
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Thanks much, that explains everything and..

I'm going boosted of course, even if it's just 6lbs
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:14 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ryze268 View Post
Thanks much, that explains everything and..

I'm going boosted of course, even if it's just 6lbs
Understood, but in order to provide any real assistance we need to know your goals. There are still some folks around that can give you solid info, but also as well one of the first suggestions is to look at the Zage kit that MicroImageOnline sells and for that you can contact cali yaris especially if you are looking to go with 6psi.
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Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:20 PM   #10
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Some more turbo questions:

I'm gonna be tuning with an AEM F/IC
1) Do I need to keep the factory O2 sensor?
2) Do I need to keep the factory MAF?
3) Can I just splice in extra wires to extend the above sensors to relocate them to where they need to be?

I'm still in the process of getting things together so I'm sure I'll have more questions soon.

-Justin
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryze268 View Post
Some more turbo questions:

I'm gonna be tuning with an AEM F/IC
1) Do I need to keep the factory O2 sensor?
2) Do I need to keep the factory MAF?
3) Can I just splice in extra wires to extend the above sensors to relocate them to where they need to be?

I'm still in the process of getting things together so I'm sure I'll have more questions soon.

-Justin

Yes to all 3. An AEM F/IC is a piggyback, so the OEM ECM is still doing the work and the F/IC is just supplementing it, so the OEM ECM still needs its sensor inputs. If you went with an AEM EMS, which is a standalone, then you could switch to a MAP sensor and only run a good wideband AFR sensor to feed the EMS.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:16 PM   #12
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Thanks a lot, I will be extending the wires then.

What is the FIC MAF Clamp all about?
I intend the run the injectors(1ZZ) using the FIC only, is that a good idea?

Here's a look at the Manifold & Turbo so far;


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Old 10-23-2014, 08:33 PM   #13
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I like that manifold.

The MAF clamp feature of the F/IC prevents the ECM from seeing boost (i.e. out of range values from the MAF that would cause the ECM to throw a trouble code).
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:54 PM   #14
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Thanks, I got the idea from boostedxa :)

I'm off from work Saturday so I'll begin mounting everything. I'm in need of the oil feed & return lines so I'll have to order those from eBay (local stores want $300 XCD)
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryze268 View Post
Thanks a lot, I will be extending the wires then.

What is the FIC MAF Clamp all about?
I intend the run the injectors(1ZZ) using the FIC only, is that a good idea?

Here's a look at the Manifold & Turbo so far;


Damn dude that looks sick!! good luck with the turbo hopefully the mounting and everything else turns out great.
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:56 PM   #16
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Thanks much, I'll be sure to update you guys with any progress I make.
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Old 11-09-2014, 05:57 PM   #17
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My sandwich adaptor and oil lines arrived today. Just need a few more couplers and boost/oil pressure gauges.

Question:
1) Should I use Teflon tape on everything I have to screw in (to avoid leaks)?
2) How does the factory 1NZ turbo Vitz read boost?
3) What kind of oil do you guys recommend?
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:21 PM   #18
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1) yes you can but do it neat if you decide to as any tape that blocks a passage can be the end of a turbo or even the engine. There is a liquid thread seal that can be purchased that works good and will avoid blockages. Those couplings/fittings are designed to prevent leaks.
2) I have no idea wish I had a turbo vitz to tell you. You wud need at least a 2 bar map sensor (1 bar vacuum and 1 bar boost) wired to your management of choice and the clip the MAF sensor voltage at atmospheric pressure.
3) Use the same oil you usually use. Turbos are designed to be used with a wide variety of oils. What is more important is using the correct oil restrictor for your turbo. Too much or too little oil pressure to a turbo is what destroys the turbo. Your turbo looks like a chine turbo therefore you should prime the oil system before starting ( unplug all coils and injectors) and tumble the car with the oil return disconnected. Then start the car only when oil drains from the oil return line. This will ensure that the turbo is receiving oil. When I had a chine T2860 turbo I had a radiator repair place weld close the oil supply banjo bolt and then I re-drilled a smaller hole to limit oil pressure to the turbo. Garrett website indicates the oil restrictor size for journal and ball bearing turbos. Or contact the turbo supplier and ask them if a restrictor is needed then ask them again lol.
Sorry I think I got carried away. I just miss having a turbo charged car and remembering all the little projects I had to do.
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