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Old 01-25-2013, 02:02 PM   #55
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Intrestingly in the asian right hand drive vitz , you have to connect 12 v to the top row 2 nd pin of D2 to fire the indicator.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:25 PM   #56
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Hey scott. Here you go. Havent tried anything as im scared to fry something. Or would i? Other than a fuse i mean, if i connected one of the pins to 12v.






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Old 01-26-2013, 09:40 PM   #57
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Intrestingly in the asian right hand drive vitz , you have to connect 12 v to the top row 2 nd pin of D2 to fire the indicator.
That is actually the same pin. In the connector diagram that I posted on page 3 of this thread, the pin numbers are looking into the pin holes of the connector, not into the wire entry side.

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Old 01-26-2013, 09:46 PM   #58
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Hey scott. Here you go. Havent tried anything as im scared to fry something. Or would i? Other than a fuse i mean, if i connected one of the pins to 12v.






The worst case is a blown fuse, but I think it will work fine. The Yellow wire on your connector is the one to connect to. I just tested it on a Japanese cluster that I have and that pin lit the front fog light LED.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:25 PM   #59
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You sure got a lot of clusters CTScott.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:59 PM   #60
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You sure got a lot of clusters CTScott.
Looking around my office I see Seven (plus there is one in each of my 3 Yaris). I think I have a problem and my someday appear on one of those reality shows about hoarders.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:09 AM   #61
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Looking around my office I see Seven (plus there is one in each of my 3 Yaris). I think I have a problem and my someday appear on one of those reality shows about hoarders.
haha I would think so too, so be ready with your own show.lol

ok thanks, i am hopeful it is the correct one, because i just tested it from each of the two green wires from the switch as well as the blue (esuse), and nothing happened.

i am hopeful because I am unsure that the clusters here are made in Japan. We have our own Sta. Rosa, Laguna plant, and at best I would assume we import those from Thailand (due to costs).

if the green/blue wires are not a good source of 12V, do you think I should get a live 12V line from the battery terminal directly? and if that works, then you know how my next question goes, where do i get that 12V from?

TIA Scott, youve been always very helpful, and I can still recall the days when I kept bugging you for the correct wiring of the passenger door lock switch.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:15 AM   #62
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haha I would think so too, so be ready with your own show.lol

ok thanks, i am hopeful it is the correct one, because i just tested it from each of the two green wires from the switch as well as the blue (esuse), and nothing happened.

i am hopeful because I am unsure that the clusters here are made in Japan. We have our own Sta. Rosa, Laguna plant, and at best I would assume we import those from Thailand (due to costs).

if the green/blue wires are not a good source of 12V, do you think I should get a live 12V line from the battery terminal directly? and if that works, then you know how my next question goes, where do i get that 12V from?

TIA Scott, youve been always very helpful, and I can still recall the days when I kept bugging you for the correct wiring of the passenger door lock switch.
You will either need to measure the switch wires with a volt meter to see which one goes from 0 to 12 volts when the switch is pressed (if any actually does) or you can connect to the wire on the other side of the relay, which actually brings the 12 volts to the fog light bulbs.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:09 PM   #63
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You will either need to measure the switch wires with a volt meter to see which one goes from 0 to 12 volts when the switch is pressed (if any actually does) or you can connect to the wire on the other side of the relay, which actually brings the 12 volts to the fog light bulbs.
ok i did what you said, and connected the yellow wire, D2-7, and i also measured the blue wire on the fog switch, it actually gives 12V to when foglights get switched on. it didnt work. both the green wires gave 12V when the park light switch was turned on, it also didnt work in firing up the foglight indicator on the gauge. is it possible to have indicators in the cluster but no LED for that?

BTW, the factory-wired esuse foglamp was included in the harness. the wires the arrow point to come from the switch and are attached to the harness (thick one, in the middle) and somehow finds it way toward the relay (blue Denso relay on the right side, encircled) and also to the outside fusebox (probably)/engine bay, so there's really no route for me toward the esuse fog light install instructions.

FYI, the items on the relays, etc, either say Denso Made in Japan or Denso Made in Thailand. So it gets even worse knowing my VIN tag says Made in Philippines. Now we dont know if the wiring follows the other Toyota plants and which one if it does.. Help...

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Old 01-27-2013, 10:19 PM   #64
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ok i did what you said, and connected the yellow wire, D2-7, and i also measured the blue wire on the fog switch, it actually gives 12V to when foglights get switched on. it didnt work. both the green wires gave 12V when the park light switch was turned on, it also didnt work in firing up the foglight indicator on the gauge. is it possible to have indicators in the cluster but no LED for that?

BTW, the factory-wired esuse foglamp was included in the harness. the wires the arrow point to come from the switch and are attached to the harness (thick one, in the middle) and somehow finds it way toward the relay (blue Denso relay on the right side, encircled) and also to the outside fusebox (probably)/engine bay, so there's really no route for me toward the esuse fog light install instructions.

FYI, the items on the relays, etc, either say Denso Made in Japan or Denso Made in Thailand. So it gets even worse knowing my VIN tag says Made in Philippines. Now we dont know if the wiring follows the other Toyota plants and which one if it does.. Help...
That is interesting that the Esuse fogs are actually wired through the OEM fog wiring, rather than with the Esuse aftermarket harness. The presence of the blue relay on the right tells me that the foglight indicator is already hooked up, so it does appear that it is not active on your cluster.
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:47 PM   #65
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is that slot on the right actually an OEM slot, or is it more of an empty slot that will serve as a holder for a relay (if ever a dealer needed to put one for some reason)? i asked bec i believe the wires don't actually go to any port on any junction box, rather just wires that are attached to the harness that go out into the outside fuse box. I'll take a picture of the fuse box and post it here, maybe you can get ideas. (crossed fingers...)

can i test it with, say, the D4-3 and D4-4 pins by any chance?
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:00 PM   #66
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is that slot on the right actually an OEM slot, or is it more of an empty slot that will serve as a holder for a relay (if ever a dealer needed to put one for some reason)? i asked bec i believe the wires don't actually go to any port on any junction box, rather just wires that are attached to the harness that go out into the outside fuse box. I'll take a picture of the fuse box and post it here, maybe you can get ideas. (crossed fingers...)

can i test it with, say, the D4-3 and D4-4 pins by any chance?
That is the OEM fog light relay socket, even thought it seems like an after thought. The wires from it go into the harness, rather than into the body ECU.

At this point, I would suggest taking your cluster out (those two connectors and two screws), removing the two screws on the back that hold the tapered black part to the white part, and then you can lift up the plastic card and take a peek underneath to see if there is an LED under the fog indicator.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:44 PM   #67
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Ok thanks thats what i did earlier, but i unscrewed the 9 or 11 screws instead, trying to find out the same thing--that didnt take me anywhere haha. Ok i will try what you said later, but that wouldnt make the needle have to come off now, would it?i was scared about that, thats why i opted the former to try to make the back come off.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:29 PM   #68
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Ok thanks thats what i did earlier, but i unscrewed the 9 or 11 screws instead, trying to find out the same thing--that didnt take me anywhere haha. Ok i will try what you said later, but that wouldnt make the needle have to come off now, would it?i was scared about that, thats why i opted the former to try to make the back come off.
Here's what I mean. You don't need to pull the needles to look. I have the symbol lit in the picture, but you can just lift the plastic card to see if there is an LED under it or if there is an empty area of white plastic.

Front Fog symbol.jpg
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:30 AM   #69
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You never cease to amaze me scott. Yes it doesnt have the led on the slot. There are soldering leads on there,but the led isnt. I guess my next step is to try an ordinary led tap (long legs) since the hole is pretty deep. If it works without any wire tap then i guess it is indeed wired already, however, i dont have any options insofar as soldering an led there without removing the needles to remove the face, do i?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:11 AM   #70
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Ok i did everything, tap D2-7 with 12v, not tap with 12v, put led normally, led in reverse (just to be sure) and no the soldering leads dont seem to give current. Do you think the gauges here are wired differently? Well the lock unlock wires seemed to be in the same slot before..

I guess it ends here for me. Thanks for all the help.

My next best bet would be to get a local optitron gauge and hopefully make it work. Or get a usdm gauge hoping it has the same wiring.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:15 AM   #71
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Here's what I mean. You don't need to pull the needles to look. I have the symbol lit in the picture, but you can just lift the plastic card to see if there is an LED under it or if there is an empty area of white plastic.

Attachment 49671
Thats a nice looking gauge btw. That LHD and optitron?
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:24 AM   #72
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Thats a nice looking gauge btw. That LHD and optitron?
That's actually a RHD one.
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