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Old 09-03-2020, 03:41 PM   #19
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
Last time I looked at it, I got discouraged because it's so close to the fuel tank on the driver side...
Your thread is motivating!
I had the same idea, if I can't fully patch the holes, I'll weld some braces at least.
Yes, I think some metal strips bridging the hole would provide a good foundation for fiberglass. I would use the mat material as it's very strong - almost like steel when the resin cures. The added advantages, of course, is that it doesn't rust, it's very easy to conform to any shape and primer and bedliner sticks to it like crazy. I might drill some holes in the metal strips to poke the fiberglass into. Then, maybe apply a second layer of fiberglass. Everything will ultimately be drenched in oil, so no further corrosion should occur. I did a quick bit of research as I was concerned that the oil rustproofing might destroy the bond between the fiberglass and metal. Apparently both the polyester and epoxy resins are tolerant of many fossil fuel based products. Now I just have to find some epoxy resin. Shouldn't be too hard as I live in a fishing community. LOL.
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Old 09-03-2020, 08:18 PM   #20
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First Welding Attempt

It turned out ok, I guess. The metal will not come off. I tugged on it as hard as I could. I am no welder, though things were complicated by a number of factors including poor lighting, poor grounding for the welder and about 1/2 way through it started to rain. I had to rush my welder back into the garage. However, the repair is very solid. I will see how it turns out with the other pieces. If I can't get it sealed with weld, I'll cover the whole repair with epoxy resin soaked fiberglass mat. If I use the fiberglass, it will be sanded and boxliner coating applied. Again, noce the repair is done, I'm dumping in a 1/2 L of thin rust proofing, probably followed by some thicker stuff. This will work its way down and saturate everything, including my weld points under the fiberglass. Hope to have this side (driver's side) done (the welding part) tomorrow evening. I found a source for epoxy resin at a local boat repair place.

Template and shaped metal:



Piece held in place by body brace bolt:



Welded (sort of, lol) in place:



A little paint as temporary rust protection:



Hole drilled through metal piece for body brace bolt:

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Old 09-04-2020, 12:20 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
First Welding Attempt

It turned out ok, I guess. The metal will not come off. I tugged on it as hard as I could. I am no welder, though things were complicated by a number of factors including poor lighting, poor grounding for the welder and about 1/2 way through it started to rain. I had to rush my welder back into the garage. However, the repair is very solid. I will see how it turns out with the other pieces. If I can't get it sealed with weld, I'll cover the whole repair with epoxy resin soaked fiberglass mat. If I use the fiberglass, it will be sanded and boxliner coating applied. Again, noce the repair is done, I'm dumping in a 1/2 L of thin rust proofing, probably followed by some thicker stuff. This will work its way down and saturate everything, including my weld points under the fiberglass. Hope to have this side (driver's side) done (the welding part) tomorrow evening. I found a source for epoxy resin at a local boat repair place.

Template and shaped metal:



Piece held in place by body brace bolt:



Welded (sort of, lol) in place:



A little paint as temporary rust protection:



Hole drilled through metal piece for body brace bolt:

Nice work! With enough patience, I'm sure you can seal it with metal only.
I'm hoping to be able to seal only with metal and then add a thin coat of epoxy primer, undercoating paint, then rust proof the whole car.
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Old 09-04-2020, 09:59 PM   #22
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More welding

A tiny bit of progress. Didn't have long to spend tonight. The metal that I'm welding to is very thin so I got a little burn through. I managed to fill the holes though. These welded plates are very strongly attached. I literally try to pull them off and if the come off, they get ground back down to fresh metal and rewelded. I did have to do this once with my third piece.

Tonight's welds, although strong, are marginally better than last night's welds. It is very difficult to do this under the car and getting everything ground to bare metal can be challenging, especially lying on my back with my face close to the chassis.



I put two pieces on tonight. The lower piece is pretty heavy gauge steel and I welded it to the rear axle support mount. Unnecessary for strength, but every bit helps.



It's doubtful that I will be able to make this area water tight with welding alone, so I do plan to do the epoxy impregnated fiberglass, or, if there a just pin holes to fill, I may use 2 part epoxy (like JB Weld) to fill the holes. As mentioned numerous times, I'll cover completely degrease, sand and cover the entire repair with bed liner, then a heavy film of gel rustproofing as well as filling the interior cavity with old ATF.

I have great respect for welders. This is not easy under ideal conditions. I did bump the power up on my welder a bit and slowed down the wire feed and it did give me a little more control. Hopefully by the time I'm done this side and practice a bit more, the other side will turn out better. At least, it's a much smaller hole!

As a bonus tonight, I discovered there is another small access hole into the cavity from the back. This way rustproofing can be sprayed in at opposite angles, allowing better coverage. I'll post up a pic of that hole later.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-04-2020 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:27 AM   #23
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Another piece added...two small patches left to go...

My welding seems to have improved over night.

I think turning down the wire speed, upping the amperage and ensuring a good ground has really helped. I'm almost thinking that I can grind down all the welds, maybe smear some JB Weld on the seams, sand and apply bed liner. I'm surprised I got a shape that actually might look OE when finished.

I have the paper template cut for next piece. Once cut to shape, it will need to be ground and bent for a perfect fit to the non-uniform existing body metal.

This repair, so far is rock solid. I bet I could almost jack the car from this point!



Another piece added...one left!





Applied a thick layer of JB Weld. Tomorrow, I'll sand the repair and some of the surrounding area, prime and apply bedliner.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-05-2020 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 09-05-2020, 03:32 PM   #24
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Damn dude - Haven't been on the forum much the last few months so I didn't see this.

The rust is going to get a lot of these vehicles and I think the area where the rear axle beam mounts is going to be the main culprit. Last November I was getting a clunking from my rear suspension and when I crawled under there I was rather alarmed by how rusty it all was so I dropped the rear axle beam and did a lot of grinding and sandblasting and then painted this nightmarish epoxymastic called "Jotun 87" over a lot of the metal. Initially I was just going to replace the shocks.

I'm going to put some cavity wax in all the cavities when I do my service in a few weeks.

In the UK if you know the registration of a vehicle you can actually look up its MOT history and see what faults have been flagged up by the tester every year. I have noticed many of the Yaris's in the scrapyard or some of the ones you see on the road were flagged up for corrosion within 30CM of a critical suspension mounting in the rear. I think this is what is going to kill most of these cars.

I'm very impressed with your repairs.

Welding near the tank is a bit risky but there isn't much choice.

I don't know if you saw my thread - the pictures towards the end show some of the corrosion on the car: https://yarisworld.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=20
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Old 09-05-2020, 07:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoidberg444 View Post
Damn dude - Haven't been on the forum much the last few months so I didn't see this.

The rust is going to get a lot of these vehicles and I think the area where the rear axle beam mounts is going to be the main culprit. Last November I was getting a clunking from my rear suspension and when I crawled under there I was rather alarmed by how rusty it all was so I dropped the rear axle beam and did a lot of grinding and sandblasting and then painted this nightmarish epoxymastic called "Jotun 87" over a lot of the metal. Initially I was just going to replace the shocks.

I'm going to put some cavity wax in all the cavities when I do my service in a few weeks.

In the UK if you know the registration of a vehicle you can actually look up its MOT history and see what faults have been flagged up by the tester every year. I have noticed many of the Yaris's in the scrapyard or some of the ones you see on the road were flagged up for corrosion within 30CM of a critical suspension mounting in the rear. I think this is what is going to kill most of these cars.

I'm very impressed with your repairs.

Welding near the tank is a bit risky but there isn't much choice.

I don't know if you saw my thread - the pictures towards the end show some of the corrosion on the car: https://yarisworld.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=20
Yes! I had read your post but just read it again. Great info there and excellent documentation! I too have to replace an axle boot. I picked up a used axle from a 120000 km ish Yaris while we were away in vacation. I'd rather not pull the axle out of the diff, so will try to disassemble the outboard end and replace.

I totally agree that this rear rust will be the demise of many Yari. That said, in many cases, the structural integrity is not threatened. Toyota just seems to skin over with very light gauge metal, but the supporting structure for the axle bushing is thick metal. The 'thin skin' obviously can be replaced. I intend to watch for Yari that fail, buy them up cheap, fix them and try to put them back on the road.

Waxing the cavities is a necessary evil for these cars I believe. I discovered how to access this inner cavity via the outboard oblong plug. There is a large hole inside that that leads right into the cavity. There is also a square hole toward the back of the cavity and maybe a foot up.

And, yeah, I was a little nervous welding and grinding by the tank. When I do the other side, I think I'll drop a sheet of metal between the tank and what I'm welding/grinding. Being a total welding newb, I left my cell phone too close and the case and screen tool a bit of slag. The screen didn't break but it looks like it may have burned through the tempered screen protector. Duh!
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Old 09-06-2020, 12:03 PM   #26
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Driver's side done and on to passenger side...

I applied 3 coats of bed liner after sanding, degreasing, adhesion promoter and priming. When the bedliner cures, I'll saturate the whole area in thick, wax-based undercoating.



And, on to the next side... The hole is smaller, but it extends upwards at the back a bit farther. I



Still deciding if I'll drop the rear axle and replace the bushings.

Here's a pic of the rest of the underbody. It was well undercoated and in great shape. It's really too bad that the rustproofing companies actually did study the internal structures of cars as all of this could have been avoided. Rust Check company claims that they have schematics of all cars, and they may, but I think it's bully pucky that they actually look at them. This was all avoidable, simply by removing one rubber plug and spraying some stuff in there.

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Old 09-06-2020, 05:37 PM   #27
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Cleaning up wheel wells

A previous owner of this car sprayed the wheel wells with rubberized compound. I hate this stuff unless an amazing prep job has been done. I scraped away the sprayed on crap to reveal rust underneath. It's just very superficial rust which did no damage. Here I have ground off all the rubberized undercoating, wire wheeled it, degreased and applied phosphoric acid gel (rust converter). I will leave alone any areas that still have the factory undercoating. The whole thing will get a thick coating of gel undercoating.



I found another access hole for the large cavity. The upper bolt hole (unused mystery hole) for the axle leads right into the cavity and up high for good pumping of fluid. I will use my 12V extractor pump to inject the rustproofing liquid. Then at the school shop, I'll blast in some thicker goo.



Pumping in the ATF. I ran close to a gallon of used ATF through the rockers, cavities and other unibody rails. To make sure I got everything soaked, I cycled the fluid through, collecting it in another bucket.



Then I blasted everything underneath with ATF. Once this stuff wicks in everywhere, I'll coat it with a more durable wax-based product.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-06-2020 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 09-07-2020, 01:15 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Driver's side done and on to passenger side...

I applied 3 coats of bed liner after sanding, degreasing, adhesion promoter and priming. When the bedliner cures, I'll saturate the whole area in thick, wax-based undercoating.



And, on to the next side... The hole is smaller, but it extends upwards at the back a bit farther. I



Still deciding if I'll drop the rear axle and replace the bushings.

Here's a pic of the rest of the underbody. It was well undercoated and in great shape. It's really too bed the rustproofing companies actually did study the internal structures of cars as all of this could have been avoided. Rust Check company claims that they have schematics of all cars, and they may, but I think it's bully pucky that they actually look at them. This was all avoidable, simply by removing one rubber plug and spraying some stuff in there.


Amazing! Welding in this position, especially laying on the ground, is not an easy task. I hate having sparks flying overhead, wear a hoodie and ear protection so the sparks don't fly inside your helmet and burn your ears/eyes. Never got burned but I've seen sparks/spatter fly inside my helmet, and I've heard stories...
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Old 09-07-2020, 10:05 AM   #29
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Amazing! Welding in this position, especially laying on the ground, is not an easy task. I hate having sparks flying overhead, wear a hoodie and ear protection so the sparks don't fly inside your helmet and burn your ears/eyes. Never got burned but I've seen sparks/spatter fly inside my helmet, and I've heard stories...
Thanks man!

Yeah, not ideal conditions, for sure. I have a few small burns. About two small pin burns on my arm. It burned through both my coveralls and shirt. Also got a burn on the tip of my thumb. Some slag landed right in the top of the thumb of my leather welding glove and burned through. When doing my brakes and trying to get that god awful spring on, my hand slipped and I took a chunk off the tip of my thumb. You can see the two little burn spots. I can tell you that I got the glove off in a hurry. LOL



I'm going to invest in better and longer gloves and likely a hoodie. We have nice heavy leather welding jackets at the school, but they are so bulky, I bet I couldn't even get under the car with one on.

As an update, I think I am going to drop the rear axle and replace the bushings. They're still solid, though cracked on the outer part, so I may drive it a bit and see. I actually have two new bushings already. Not looking forward to this job as I don't have a bushing press. I also want the bushing bolt to soak in rustproofing for a while as I expect it's going to be a bear to get out. I did soak it repeatedly in Releasall. Thinking about it now, I probably should have put a big wrench on the captive nut when it was all open. Oh well.
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Old 09-07-2020, 10:35 AM   #30
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Thank you for sharing 06... I screen captured that photo of access hole above bolt, precious info THX
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Old 09-07-2020, 12:07 PM   #31
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Thank you for sharing 06... I screen captured that photo of access hole above bolt, precious info THX
Mon plaisir!
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Old 09-07-2020, 04:06 PM   #32
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I wonder if rust converter would be useful to you? Are used it to save the power steering lines on my 2002. Eco. And also extensively on a 99 Miata I bought that I didn’t realize it was a flood case.
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Old 09-07-2020, 08:19 PM   #33
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I wonder if rust converter would be useful to you? Are used it to save the power steering lines on my 2002. Eco. And also extensively on a 99 Miata I bought that I didnít realize it was a flood case.
Yes, I use rust converter on all metal before I prime and paint it. It's great stuff. I love watching it slowly turn the rust from red to black. I use the Permatex brand.
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Old 09-08-2020, 10:07 PM   #34
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Passenger side axle mount

I welded most of the hole closed. There was one small opening left but it was in a position that would have been virtually impossible to weld due to space constraints and proximity to the gas tank. I manually sanded about an inch all around the opening down to bare metal. I spread a thin coat of JB Weld around the hole. I then mixed up a batch of JB Weld and saturated a thick piece of fiberglass mat, pasted it on and shaped it. Finally, I coated the whole repair with another layer of JB Weld. This should be a long lasting repair. After the JB Weld cures, it gets a coat of epoxy primer and a couple coats of bedliner. Like the driver's side, I'll pump in lots of ATF.

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Old 09-08-2020, 10:43 PM   #35
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The plot thickens...

I found more rust damage. Fortunately it's only on one side - the passenger side. Although the inner and outer structures are solid, one of the inner support plates has rusted away from the bottom plate and the bottom pinch weld crumbled away. The damage is about 12" - 14" in length. This will require removing a section of the outer quarter panel skin to gain access to the inside. I will use two pieces of angle iron, one welded to the bottom plate and one to the outer quarter panel skin after I reweld the cut out piece of skin back on. Then, weld the two pieces of angle iron together for from the pinch weld/jack point.

I spent about and hour thoroughly inspecting the car and feel confident that this is the extent of the rust damage. The driver's side is in great shape with no additional corrosion. These cars seem afflicted with corrosion damage just around the rear axle area of the car. Everything else seems to hold up well.



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Old 09-11-2020, 09:57 PM   #36
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New toy...

Always keeping my eyes open for tools to add to my shop. I picked up this metal brake at Princess Auto today. It's surprisingly heavy, robust and should easily handle the 18 gauge metal that I need to bend for my rocker area repair. I entertained - for a brief moment - making my own, but the materials alone would have cost me as much or more. This was $79.00 Canadian.





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