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Old 10-12-2020, 05:52 AM   #73
bronsin
 
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Oh man, you know it! If I ever have to do this again, any bolts/studs that won't come out, I'll grind flush with the manifold. Then, remove the manifold, weld nuts onto the bit of stud/bolts that's sticking out. I think my welding nub failed because I'd already compromised the bolt shank by drilling it out. No more male extractor type tools for me! I think I got lucky after the extractor broke off in the bolt shank. Those carbide dremel burring bits saved the day. They chewed up that hardened steel extractor like it was nothing, and it did no damage to the bits. I also got lucky drilling and tapping.

BTW, started the car and it's dead silent up front now. I do need to install an exhaust donut between the cat pipe and muffler at the back. Otherwise, the exhaust system is in excellent shape.


In my experience it’s best to heat rusted fasteners with a torch before trying to remove them. Heated up cherry red. Not often necessary to resort to EZ Out with that approach.
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Old 10-12-2020, 01:17 PM   #74
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In my experience it’s best to heat rusted fasteners with a torch before trying to remove them. Heated up cherry red. Not often necessary to resort to EZ Out with that approach.
Yes, I agree. In this case it was nearly impossible to get anything on it as it was pretty corroded. My mechanic heats them up red hot, then uses an ice cube on the fastener and immediately removes it. Due to the difficult position and the fact that I had to become a contortionist just to get something on to turn the bolt shank, I couldn't coordinate heat, a removal tool attached while holding an inspection mirror in the other hand. Much of this job was done 'blind'. I feel thankful that I managed to drill and tap straight and the nut ended up flush to the manifold. If the engine had been out of the car, it would have been a quick job, I suspect. Live and learn. The next time, I'll know exactly what to do and hopefully it won't be in such an awkward and cramped position.
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Old 10-12-2020, 03:52 PM   #75
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Yes things are a lot tighter these days when working on a car! I’m kind of thankful the car is I got to work on have a lot more space to do so. I would have a difficult time changing a water pump on my 09 Yaris. Even 10 years ago!
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:07 PM   #76
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Yes things are a lot tighter these days when working on a car! I’m kind of thankful the car is I got to work on have a lot more space to do so. I would have a difficult time changing a water pump on my 09 Yaris. Even 10 years ago!
Missed this. Yeah, I remember the old boats I drove; 69 Olds Cutlass, 70s Buick Century, 80s Crown Vic. You could practically stand in the bay beside the engine. Some day I might buy a classic car and work on it. I can only imagine how much easier it would be, space-wise.
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:22 PM   #77
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More exhaust work...

I knew I had to replace the little donut at the back of the exhaust system. I got it unbolted and the old deteriorated donut removed. Man, it was stuck on there and it took a while to pry off all the little bits.





I started up the car and still...exhaust leak! I plugged the exhaust with my hand and could hear exhaust coming out just above the flange. Dang...the little welded on shield had rusted through at the weld. Seen this before. I got it ground down. The rest of the metal around the hole is very thick and solid.





I just slowly bent a small rectangular piece of old car hood into a curve in my vise. Got the patch welded on.





When I bent the small shield over to have good welding access, I noticed that the other weld had also rusted through. I figured I'd weld that, then weld the shield back on after both patches were done. Ultimately, gave up on that idea. There's a large aluminum shield between that and the gas tank anyway.





Painted with VHT flameproof ceramic paint.



This should hold up for a good while. I would have just put the relatively new muffler I had on my '06 before the swap, but then recalled that I'd put that on my '08 LE before I sold it. Eventually, I'll pick up a Walker SS muffler from RockAuto, or, I'll keep my eyes open for a Megan or other performance muffler, if I can find a cheap one for sale.

Car is coming along nicely. Went out for a nice drive in it today. Still have a few jobs left to do.

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Old 10-27-2020, 04:31 AM   #78
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Impressive job so far. Glad you managed to deal with that bolt. I just can't believe it was seized so bad. It's an aluminium block - I just don't understand what was holding it in like that. If anything it should have just removed the threads from the block.

What jobs are left to do on her?
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Old 10-27-2020, 04:58 AM   #79
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Impressive job so far. Glad you managed to deal with that bolt. I just can't believe it was seized so bad. It's an aluminium block - I just don't understand what was holding it in like that. If anything it should have just removed the threads from the block.

What jobs are left to do on her?
Salt makes everything metal-wise an absolute nightmare to do on an older car.
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Old 10-27-2020, 06:40 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by zoidberg444 View Post
Impressive job so far. Glad you managed to deal with that bolt. I just can't believe it was seized so bad. It's an aluminium block - I just don't understand what was holding it in like that. If anything it should have just removed the threads from the block.

What jobs are left to do on her?
Thanks man! I have theory on why that whole job went so badly and it involved compounding errors on my part. First, I should not have attempted to use a socket on it as the bolt head was corroded somewhat. This rounded off what was remaining to some degree. Had I used the socket bolt extractor in the first place, I think it would have come out. Three of the other bolts/studs came out with relative ease using a standard socket, the forth with the male socket extractor and I wasn't in possession of the socket style extractor for the stubborn bolt at the time. My next error was drilling and trying to use a male extractor. I think this just expanded the bolt shank diameter, clamping it to the block. I may have drilled too large a hole. When I initially drilled and used the male extractor, the bolt head and washer was still present and I think the washer was corroded and adhered to the block, which didn't help either. Then, I ground the damaged bolt head flat and pulled the manifold off, which left a decent sized nub. I should have done this first, before any drilling attempts. I would have had an undamaged nub to crank on. I couldn't effectively fill the damaged bolt shank with weld making it strong enough to withstand twisting. A broken extractor tip in the bolt shank fiasco didn't help either.

Although every situation in unique, if I again ran into the same conditions, I would try in this order: 1) Try socket style bolt extractor. If that failed, 2) grind bolt flat and remove manifold. If the nub of shank wasn't enough, 3) weld a larger nub onto the protruding bolt shank, roughly shape to take a socket style extractor.

What remains to be done:

- passenger side axle boot, or axle replacement. I have a whole axle and may just do that.

- Driver's seat slider assembly

- Stuck hatch lock tumbler

- despite having replaced an ebrake cable, rear brake job and and topping up fluid, I have a brake warning light on. Will have to troubleshoot that. I think the car has ABS, but no ABS light. I was thinking rear wheel ABS sensor plug corrosion, but not sure what the root cause is. I suppose I should check the ebrake switch. Ebrake and braking system function flawlessly with great pedal pressure etc.

- Optional (as they're not that bad), rear axle to frame bushings. I have 2 new ones. I expect that will be a tough job getting them out. I have an air hammer and will attempt to walk them out. I know you bought a bushing remover and I may end up having to do that too.

- Full repaint, though this will not happen this year.

Plugging along slowly, but the car is coming along nicely. It will be pretty nice, solid and reliable when done. A lot of work! I undertook this for a few reasons: 1) it's an RS and 2) I've always wanted to buy a cheap (though good quality car) and tackle such jobs as welding/structural repair, and one that involved more than just simply bolting on parts that obviously needed to be replaced. This car, provided both! 3) everything from the rear axle forward is in pristine condition from a rust perspective. The owner had it rustproofed really well from the axle forward. A true learning experience and one that's honing my 'rebuild skills' to some degree. I would say that a car that needs this many repairs is on the far edge of projects that I'd be willing to take on again, though. Haha.
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:39 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch9521 View Post
Salt makes everything metal-wise an absolute nightmare to do on an older car.
Believe me mate - we have rust in spades in England and I have never encountered something that was seized that bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
What remains to be done:

- passenger side axle boot, or axle replacement. I have a whole axle and may just do that.

- Driver's seat slider assembly

- Stuck hatch lock tumbler

- despite having replaced an ebrake cable, rear brake job and and topping up fluid, I have a brake warning light on. Will have to troubleshoot that. I think the car has ABS, but no ABS light. I was thinking rear wheel ABS sensor plug corrosion, but not sure what the root cause is. I suppose I should check the ebrake switch. Ebrake and braking system function flawlessly with great pedal pressure etc.

- Optional (as they're not that bad), rear axle to frame bushings. I have 2 new ones. I expect that will be a tough job getting them out. I have an air hammer and will attempt to walk them out. I know you bought a bushing remover and I may end up having to do that too.

- Full repaint, though this will not happen this year.

Plugging along slowly, but the car is coming along nicely. It will be pretty nice, solid and reliable when done. A lot of work! I undertook this for a few reasons: 1) it's an RS and 2) I've always wanted to buy a cheap (though good quality car) and tackle such jobs as welding/structural repair, and one that involved more than just simply bolting on parts that obviously needed to be replaced. This car, provided both! 3) everything from the rear axle forward is in pristine condition from a rust perspective. The owner had it rustproofed really well from the axle forward. A true learning experience and one that's honing my 'rebuild skills' to some degree. I would say that a car that needs this many repairs is on the far edge of projects that I'd be willing to take on again, though. Haha.
In regards to rear axle bushes - I replaced them on Betty.



I used the air hammer to fold the lip out and then cut the lip off with the grinder.



That meant I could get my bushing extractor on. It took an enormous amount of force. I actually damaged the M12 forcing screw in the kit. I would suggest adding heat to the metal sleeve with a propane torch. It might help them come out.



Mine weren't in great condition. They were causing a "clunking" from the rear when I was braking. It was quite annoying. My rear shocks were dead as well. Also my rear axle was very rusty so I needle scaled, sand blasted it and painted it with Jotun 87. The amount of rust scale the air hammer and needle scaler chipped off it was shocking. It may well have rusted through somewhere if I hadn't treated it at the rate it was going. Seen as you have to drop the rear axle to do it you might as well clean it up.

As for your brake light being on - I would sometimes get this if I was driving on a wet night when the roads had been salted. Near as I could figure out salt water was getting into and shorting out a connector somewhere because it would go away when the car dried out. The main culprit on mine was one of the rear ABS sensors. So I stuffed the connectors with vaseline to keep the water out and it seemed to cure the problem.
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Old 11-01-2020, 01:34 PM   #82
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2 things about your RS Surprise Me!

This post has been great to follow! And the basic car you are working with looked great to begin with as well. But as a US-living guy, a couple things about your car surprise me, the fact that it has black mirrors (not body-colored,) and manual windows. I thought CDN RS spec cars came with upgrades to both these items? (Power Windows and Colored Mirrors.) And only CE/LE cars might have not? But your door panels look like they are original RS ones, the place where window switches go is correctly dark colored... I even wondered if a previous owner had "combined" an crunched RS interior with a LE pkg 3 door in good shape? I have an old online CDN 08 HB brochure that shows the original equipment for these cars, and thought that the 07 range was the same. Or am I totally wrong? Many years ago I bought some Canadian parts from a BC dealership and looked closely at a couple LE models (no RS on site,) and always thought that in Canada, I would quickly replace the mirror covers of an LE with US-sourced colored covers...

In any case, thanks for a fantastic post about rebuilding your car! And I hope you don't mind my intrusion. Again, Great Work so far!

Last edited by Snappy; 11-01-2020 at 01:38 PM. Reason: understandability
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Old 11-07-2020, 01:38 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoidberg444 View Post
Believe me mate - we have rust in spades in England and I have never encountered something that was seized that bad.



In regards to rear axle bushes - I replaced them on Betty.



I used the air hammer to fold the lip out and then cut the lip off with the grinder.



That meant I could get my bushing extractor on. It took an enormous amount of force. I actually damaged the M12 forcing screw in the kit. I would suggest adding heat to the metal sleeve with a propane torch. It might help them come out.



Mine weren't in great condition. They were causing a "clunking" from the rear when I was braking. It was quite annoying. My rear shocks were dead as well. Also my rear axle was very rusty so I needle scaled, sand blasted it and painted it with Jotun 87. The amount of rust scale the air hammer and needle scaler chipped off it was shocking. It may well have rusted through somewhere if I hadn't treated it at the rate it was going. Seen as you have to drop the rear axle to do it you might as well clean it up.

As for your brake light being on - I would sometimes get this if I was driving on a wet night when the roads had been salted. Near as I could figure out salt water was getting into and shorting out a connector somewhere because it would go away when the car dried out. The main culprit on mine was one of the rear ABS sensors. So I stuffed the connectors with vaseline to keep the water out and it seemed to cure the problem.
I wish I had your press. haha. I picked up an air hammer and will give that a try. I'll definitely apply some heat. If the air hammer doesn't cut it, I'll bore a hole through, slide a bi-metal hacksaw blade through, reattach it to the frame and saw through the metal part of the bushing. I have already loosened and tightened the bolts, so at least that part went well. Having those gaping holes there - before the repair - allowed me to liberally soak the captive nuts many times over many days. I'm sure that helped.

My 2008 had the ABS light issued as well. A pin had actually corroded off. I clipped the ends off a sewing needle plugged it in, like you, applied grease and plugged the connector back in. Never had a problem again. I have a jumper for the OBD2 port, so I'll bridge the appropriate pins and get the code. If the pin or pins on the wheel speed sensor are gone, I'll order a wss and install it.

Thanks for the insight and guidance!
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Old 11-07-2020, 01:46 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snappy View Post
This post has been great to follow! And the basic car you are working with looked great to begin with as well. But as a US-living guy, a couple things about your car surprise me, the fact that it has black mirrors (not body-colored,) and manual windows. I thought CDN RS spec cars came with upgrades to both these items? (Power Windows and Colored Mirrors.) And only CE/LE cars might have not? But your door panels look like they are original RS ones, the place where window switches go is correctly dark colored... I even wondered if a previous owner had "combined" an crunched RS interior with a LE pkg 3 door in good shape? I have an old online CDN 08 HB brochure that shows the original equipment for these cars, and thought that the 07 range was the same. Or am I totally wrong? Many years ago I bought some Canadian parts from a BC dealership and looked closely at a couple LE models (no RS on site,) and always thought that in Canada, I would quickly replace the mirror covers of an LE with US-sourced colored covers...

In any case, thanks for a fantastic post about rebuilding your car! And I hope you don't mind my intrusion. Again, Great Work so far!
Thanks! No intrusion. Always great to have lots of input. Not sure what options came with the RS in Canada. I think the VIN number brings the car up as an RS. I suppose it's possible that someone changed the interior out, but the entire interior, seats, trim, headliner and all are the same as my silver RS. Another feature that suggests that it's an RS is the factory holes drilled for the side skirt pins. However, you have me intrigued now! Haha. I'll do some more digging. Thanks! Oh, and if the mirror surfaces are prep-able, I'll paint them the body color when I paint the car. BTW, I'd love to see the brochure if you're willing to share. I love that stuff.

EDIT: I found this:

https://www.autotrader.ca/research/t...power%20locks.

Then there's this (though USA, I believe). It shows power locks, windows, A/C and a few other things as options. It does look like body colored mirrors were standard equipment. I wonder if the mirrors were replaced on my car. It had definitely been in a few fender benders. Both front fenders look like aftermarket ones. I was planning to pick up two at the U-Pull before painting the car. Or, what I have here is really a CE done up like an RS. I'm going to look on my insurance card. The policy links the VIN to a model and trim automatically. I'll post up the result after I check. Again, very intriguing.

https://www.auto123.com/en/new-cars/.../2007/3-dr/rs/
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Old 11-07-2020, 03:01 AM   #85
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'08 Toyota Canada Brochure

I think I downloaded this from Toyota.ca back in 08.
(Split into 3 PDFs for size posting limits.)
First Part:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 08yarishb_e1.pdf (1.62 MB, 6 views)

Last edited by Snappy; 11-07-2020 at 03:06 AM. Reason: Number of PDFs
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Old 11-07-2020, 03:05 AM   #86
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'08 Toyota Canada Brochure

Second Part:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 08yarishb_e2.pdf (2.33 MB, 5 views)
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Old 11-07-2020, 03:06 AM   #87
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'08 Toyota Canada Brochure

Third Part:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 08yarishb_e3.pdf (263.5 KB, 5 views)
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:11 AM   #88
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Those are awesome! Thanks a lot. I downloaded them to my Yaris folder. I didn't know about those optional wheels and the performance exhaust. I love the slightly retro font. Haha.
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Old 11-07-2020, 09:32 AM   #89
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There's too much RS in that car to be a lesser model converted with RS bits. I have the '07 brochure and it is not quite the same as '08.
The mirrors however are supposed to be body colour regardless of whatever option package the car was delivered with. Body colour mirrors is achieved by snapping coloured caps over base black mirrors is it not? Could be a factory oversight, or caps have been removed.
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:06 PM   #90
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There's too much RS in that car to be a lesser model converted with RS bits. I have the '07 brochure and it is not quite the same as '08.
The mirrors however are supposed to be body colour regardless of whatever option package the car was delivered with. Body colour mirrors is achieved by snapping coloured caps over base black mirrors is it not? Could be a factory oversight, or caps have been removed.
Yeah, I'm thinking it's an RS. I can't imagine someone going to the trouble. Even if someone was flipping it, it wouldn't be worth the effort. I suppose you could replace all those parts, but the 'definitive proof' for me was the side skirt pin holes in the rocker area.
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