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05-25-2019, 12:34 AM | #11 | |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Quote:
So the main issues with the GS gauges was the extremely small gauge wiring they come with. You have to run your own wires from the sender/sensor to the super tiny wires behind the gauge. You cannot find wires or connectors that small from typical go to stores. I had to double back the small gauge wire to make it crimpable. The gauge needle would randomly start to move 40psi lower or higher at random times. Then sometimes if I tapped the gauge it would do it again. I figured it must be a loose crimp so I rewired and triple checked all my connections to no avail as the issue persisted. Instead of only having to connect a ground and a hot, you have 3 extra wires that although optional, they run the auto dimming feature and they keep the memory for what color you last chose. These always never held the color properly and would typically default to blue on 2 of the 3 gauges I had. Think of how messy the wiring was, 5 wires behind every gauge each with their own connectors, it was a mess. AEM conveniently supplies a wire loom with proper connectors to attach the sensor to the back of the gauge. This makes them easy to disconnect when ever you need to or if you need to replace a sensor. All you have to do is splice in a hot and a ground on 2 of the wires from the loom. I have to extend a few wires to make it reach where I wanted the gauges to go, but the wire gauge is not super small so it was easy to work with and IIRC it matched the smallest gauge you can find at CT (21gauge I think?) AEM gauges have an auto sensor that dims the back light based on ambient light in the car. Much simple, cleaner and no gauge sweeping issues or weird electrical problems. Oh, and GS gauges have a little plastic button to change the back light color. Thus button is very loose and rattles consistently since day 1. All of the gauges were like that, it wasn't a one off. Truth is a proper full syn oil can easily handle upwards of 300*F, most engineers will tell you 450-500F is its limit. Based on my 13k km UOA of 5w30 Pennzoil UP that regularily saw 295F it never degraded the oil to where it lost it's lubricity or viscocity. The whole belief that 260F is an oils upper limit and anything after that needs a cooler is outdated and obsolete with modern full syn oils. Where temp matter is when it reduces yourt operating pressure below spec. For the 2zr according to Toyota it is 22-58 psi at 3k rpm and anything greater than 3 psi at idle. Now to fix that you can either run a cooler or simply up a viscocity to maintain pressure, but then you would be running too high a viscocity when not on track. This is why a cooler is ideal for a car that is track driven and a DD'er only if the track pushes it out of its oil pressure specs. I actually strongly disagree with the guy that told you oil temp is more valuable than pressure and here is why: If your engine has catastrophic failure and you loose oil at an alarming rate, neither a temp or pressure gauge will help you - well maybe a pressure gauge would, but you would have to have it set to an alarm or constantly be monitoring it every couple seconds. Oil temp only tells you the temp of the oil, not what actually matters. You will absolutely never get the oil too hot for a full syn's capability, even if you tracked the crap out of your car. You potentially could push the car/oil outside of the pressure specs if you tracked the crap of of your car. Notice in the above, the dependant variable is pressure and it is dependant on temp. But only knowing the temp tells you nothing of the pressure. But by knowing pressure you know what is important regardless of the temp. Pressure if a product of temp. If you are going to get 1 gauge, let it be oil pressure. This will guide you in what oil viscosity you need to run (spoiler alert, I can almost guarantee you that 0w20 will be perfectly fine) Here is why I doubt you will have an oil temp issue. Oil typically runs equal to, or 10 degrees F above coolant temp in 75F temps. Add 10F in peak summer months and subtract 10F in colder months. This is in city driving for a long time or highway cruising, even at 130 km/h. Where oil temps will slightly go up under these conditions is when you climb a long skyway bridge - or better put, any increase engine load. This is why 10 mins in to a 40 min lapping session at the track, my oil temps started to climb. Coolant would peak at 230F and oil would creep up to 285F and hand out there for the rest of the session (this was on stock cooling) This was only seen during WOT and constantly at high rpm's. To put it in perspective I would go through 3/4 of a tank of gas during my 60km trip to the track and my 120km on the track. You will never come close to these constant engine loads or temps on the street without getting arrested first. Even with an oil cooled turbo you still won't come close to those temps. The engine has no where near the load or demand on it. Spirited driving is still much more tame and less demanding than full out track driving. In all honesty you could save your cash and forgo the gauges completely. It gives you info, but info you likely do not need other than for curiosity's sake. You already took care of the trans temp issue with a cooler so I can't see you having issues there. If you are worried about that than run a Redline ATF instead of the Toyota WS fluid which doesn't appear to be that robust of a fluid unlike their 0w20 oil. Don't spec a higher weight oil unless you see pressures outside of the Toyota spec'd limits. Lower viscosity means higher flow which means more cooling. Higher viscosities increase temps. This is well documented on the gt-86 platform when people go from 0w20 to 5w30. It also likely contributed to my oil temps last track season as well. This is my two cents based on me DDing in various temps and pushing my 2zr well past it's limit while keeping a careful eye on oil temps and pressure. I was surprised by some of the date I gathered, it wasn't what I was told or assumed.
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