RS Intake Manifold,airbox mod and 1zzfe throttle body/injectors

[Compeer]

Got me a 1az throttle body today, tried to do the electronics swap, Broke it trying to get it apart like the guide said, lucky it was cheap.

Will wait for the correct throttle body, its hard finding them wrecked here and if you do find them the engines are gone.

What is the IS250 pedal part number? i have been looking around at Altezza's but same again, anything newer is not being wrecked.

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

It is on eBay. All I can quickly see is Canadian shipping which is as usual, astronomical. Don't know what US shipping would be.

Thanks! Ebayer is selling it for $12.38 USD, but shipping is $22.81! I can make a adaptor plate for much cheaper. I will post whenever I get around to it.

OP, my apologies for hijacking...

[WeeYari]

To continue with the hijack, for $$ comparison, here is what a Canadian has to put up with.

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

To continue with the hijack, for $$ comparison, here is what a Canadian has to put up with.

[mitch9521]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

To continue with the hijack, for $$ comparison, here is what a Canadian has to put up with.

My G's/GRMN tails cost almost twice as much to ship than I paid for the things. Ridiculous.

They do look good though.

[Compeer]

1zz-fe injectors from a volt aquired, but still struggling to track down the correct throttle body, Might have to bite the bullet and go to a parts store for it.

[sh0rtlife]

see thats something that ive been trying to understand is "what" to pull the TB from....everyone says use the TB its a great upgrade no one bothers to mention what its from!!!!!

[WeeYari]

Back in the day when TB swap was the hot mod, '05 Corolla 1ZZFE was the donor.
Search 'throttle body chip' will reveal everything you need to know.

[Neinris]

Mine was out of a Toyota Matrix PN 22030-0D030, which I got from Ebay for $30 including shipping. I drilled out the rivets and opened up the electronics and swapped with the Yaris' and it worked without any CEL (I don't think swapping out the electronics is necessary though). I ended up putting back the stock TB though when I was hunting for a ghost fault on my Dee Dee, but ended up finding out that the ODBII reader I was using was faulty, and made me buy stuff I didn't need.

I could put it back, but I think I'll just do the throttle pedal swap instead.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

Mine was out of a Toyota Matrix PN 22030-0D030, which I got from Ebay for $30 including shipping. I drilled out the rivets and opened up the electronics and swapped with the Yaris' and it worked without any CEL (I don't think swapping out the electronics is necessary though). I ended up putting back the stock TB though when I was hunting for a ghost fault on my Dee Dee, but ended up finding out that the ODBII reader I was using was faulty, and made me buy stuff I didn't need.

I could put it back, but I think I'll just do the throttle pedal swap instead.

Do both thats my plan, I have an is250 throttle lined up for $150 nzd and a 2zfr-fe throttle body for $128.

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

see thats something that ive been trying to understand is "what" to pull the TB from....everyone says use the TB its a great upgrade no one bothers to mention what its from!!!!!

Short you can get them out of any toyota car with a chassis number starting with ZZE that is 2006 onwards or any ZRE starting chassis car hope that helps.

The volt Injectors I picked up



I have been busy porting and polishing the RS inlet manifold and made it an adaptor plate, now there is a nice rounded lip into the larger diameter instead of a hard edge. the inlet has had a nice internal sanding as well to remove any hard edges.




It's very soft alu and with shellac and the gasket paper facing the throttle body and the original oring this should seal perfectly.


Polished the inlet manifolds exhaust ends as they all had a lot of sharp edges inside from the casting just like the main inlet had.

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Do both thats my plan, I have an is250 throttle lined up for $150 nzd and a 2zfr-fe throttle body for $128...

I plan on doing a 2ZR-FE or 3ZR-FE swap... but that's in a very distant future, maybe 2+ years...

I'm not happy with my current 31 MPG/7.58757 l/100km to and from work. It's mostly city driving, but still.

That's why I'm hesitant to put the "1ZZ" TB back on.

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by Neinris

I plan on doing a 2ZR-FE or 3ZR-FE swap... but that's in a very distant future, maybe 2+ years...

I'm not happy with my current 31 MPG/7.58757 l/100km to and from work. It's mostly city driving, but still.

That's why I'm hesitant to put the "1ZZ" TB back on.

lol i havnt modded mine much and im hovering around 27-29...but im a heavy footed bastard who drives hard.....id be happy to be up over 31 again...

my wife holds the record imo tho...moving down from canada, car packed to the gills, and a 4x8 trailer behind the yaris also packed ABOVE the roofline of the car and she manages 41.5mpg with it....course the wee yaris still only had around 60k miles on it

[Compeer]

Ok so the RS manifold does not fit, to fit an RS manifold you need the heater lines that came from an rs or simillar model that does niot run the heater hardlines behind the manifold.

Also the 2zr-fe Throttle body has no bends on the hose ends..doesnt matter tho since i just made the hoses bypass and run into each other.

Its dark nowe and almost got it done, just need to try to get the top part of the hose on now to try starting her

[sh0rtlife]

i hope you took a shot of the heater hose issue as that sounds like something easily modified....unless they thread into the block or something

FWIW most "old" cars had no heater hardlines it was all rubber.....and imo those rubber lines held heat better for the heater cores

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

i hope you took a shot of the heater hose issue as that sounds like something easily modified....unless they thread into the block or something

FWIW most "old" cars had no heater hardlines it was all rubber.....and imo those rubber lines held heat better for the heater cores

It is the hardline that bolts into the water pump and runs to the right and then goes towards rear of car and connects to heater system. Needs to be planned out exactly how im going to do it, also its bloody hard to see so I need to also confirm its 100% the problem. The right side of the manifold is held up and those pipes are right where it felt to be hitting. Have not given up on the rs intake install just need to figure out the gremlin.

Heres the pics from the yarisworld discord performance channel I posted of the install of the 2rz-fe 22030-37010 throttle body.

Installed the the 1nz-fe chip with 4 PC bolts and a couple zip ties. The gears were dry and had evidence of rubbergrease so I regreased the gears which freed up the throttle blade allowing it open and close with about half the force of what it was before. I read that the stock chip could work but I could not get it to with 22030-37010's chip set it p2103 CEL every time.





I made a cardboard gasket to go between my alu adaptor plate and the throttle body from the back of a drawing pad. The adaptor plate is 2mm soft aluminium with the inlet beveled to smooth the transition a bit. The seal/flame retarder has to have the first row cut off so the throttle blade does not hit.







The boot is one of the biggest issues I will be trying to find a better solution because the airbox is under some pressure right now and I dont want things breaking with the engine reving, may have to make a fancy tube and just use this boot asthe sealing rings with hose clamps so it fits better. On a side not I want to put in an oil catch can anyway so can sort something out so that goes from pcv valve to catch can and can remove that from the intake. There was a LOT of oil in the intake manifold, enough that it was leaking out, Probably a sign its time for new valve stem seals.



Ok so some notes and issues I ran into, The idle adjustment screw needs to be turned about 1 turn, the car will P2103 you get this right. The 2mm allen key was not enough to break the iddle adjustment screw free of the factory yellow glue, But I pulled the throttle body back off and hacksawed a slot in the idle screw for a flat head screw driver and that broke it free and I would honestly recomend doing that if yours is twisting your allen key like mine did. With the idle incorrect the car would drive a short while then error code and disable the throttle completly..be warned don't go out on the road without the OBD2 scanner, that allows you to reset it and atleast drive a short while. (it will drive untill you release accelerator pedal then give you no accelerator and CEL). The stock rubber intake gasket was beat up and for sure leaking a bit, I used the RS gasket as it was a blue nitrate and was fine so I recomend grabing a new one before you start.

Results? AMAZING! The damn thing feels alive in the low RPM, it just shoots up there now and the accelerator pedal feels much more precise. I think this is the best mod yet.

[sh0rtlife]

i attempted the TB board swap only to find both units used different main gears and different electric motors so much so that the "pins" off the motors wernt in the same spot.....annoyed

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

i attempted the TB board swap only to find both units used different main gears and different electric motors so much so that the "pins" off the motors wernt in the same spot.....annoyed

Different back plate and I feel you bro I broke the 1az throttle body trying to get the cover off.

You could try taking the yellow glue off and adjusting the it back one turn, maybe she will accept it? we don't all have the same ecu and they can behave a bit differently

[sh0rtlife]

it was NOT the ribbed backing plate....but it is however a "reman" not a OE unit so that may be why....but 1 has what looks like a hall effect sensor nub an nothing else while the other has an actual main board in it..06 rolla S, and its only got the 2 water ports in the right spot..and rotatable