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Old 01-23-2011, 08:33 PM   #109
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H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L) - Horn in DIY manual

That seems strange, but it appears that to have the horn honk, you have to purchase the additional module. I would measure continuity between this pin and ground to see if that really is the case (it should jump from an open circuit to 0 ohms when the horn should honk).


1 PINK (+) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - Ignition #1 GREEN in DIY manual or #1 PINK as per post #35 Skylinecar1982

Green has worked for most, but if for some reason yours is like his, where the IG1 and IG2 seem to be reversed, you can swap it. With most systems, the IG1 and IG2 relays are activated simultaneously.

5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - Ignition #2 PINK in DIY manual or #2 GREEN as per post #35

As above.


4 & 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there - (+) Battery Voltage in DIY manual ?

The battery power location noted in my PDF is correct for these two.


H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - ?
An optional output that can be used for various functions such as turning on the defogger.


Blue (-) While running - Remote starter in DIY manual ? Where to the remote starter?

Connect to the second status output (H2/5) and in the configuration mode, configure it for latched, rather than pulsed output.



Red +12V - (+) Battery Voltage
Black Ground - Ground

Connect to same power/ground points as the remote starter.
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:27 PM   #110
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I see; thanks for making things clear.

It seems that the horn will wait.
Is there a possibility to connect the transponder key bypass to the other STATUS wire (4-pin satellite harness diagram/1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT)?
Then to program the remote module to start the rear defogger and the engine together? Or to connect the second STATUS wire to the defogger wire?
I would like to have the rear defogger working with the remote, when the heating is on during winter time.

Tx
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:42 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by samltd View Post
I see; thanks for making things clear.

It seems that the horn will wait.
Is there a possibility to connect the transponder key bypass to the other STATUS wire (4-pin satellite harness diagram/1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT)?
Then to program the remote module to start the rear defogger and the engine together? Or to connect the second STATUS wire to the defogger wire?
I would like to have the rear defogger working with the remote, when the heating is on during winter time.

Tx

Either should work. The defogger (-) wire is the black wire on the defogger switch, BTW.
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:09 PM   #112
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Thanks, I have few more questions.

Running a wire behind the A/C panel to the switch, or better trying to find the wire's other end and to connect over there?
The neutral switch is necessary for an automatic?
Where the hood switch goes actually and where do I pass the wire from the remote start module to it?

Regards.
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:33 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by samltd View Post
Thanks, I have few more questions.

Running a wire behind the A/C panel to the switch, or better trying to find the wire's other end and to connect over there?
The neutral switch is necessary for an automatic?
Where the hood switch goes actually and where do I pass the wire from the remote start module to it?

Regards.
I would connect at the back of the AC panel, as that is easy to get to. The next to points are connector 1E (which is up high under the dash) and 4Q (which is buried under a cover on the back side of the under-dash fuse panel).

Autos do not need a neutral wire, since they will only start in neutral.

The hood switch (should you choose to install it) needs to mount where it will be pressed when the hood is closed. And, the base of it needs to be in contact with bare metal (or needs to have a ring terminal connection to a ground point). You can run a wire to it by going through the giant grommet that is up by where the steering column goes through the firewall.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:49 PM   #114
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Will do how you say
Thanks a lot.
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:41 AM   #115
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Ultrastart 1280 for Manual Transmission

Hey CTScott,

I just got an Ultrastart 1280 and can't wait to install it this weekend.

The manual:
http://www.ultrastarters.com/Feature...L-REV-2008.pdf

Did you have to cut any wires in terms of connecting to the starter and ignition wires of the car?

I have a 2010 Liftback with no power or keyless entry.


Thanks to this forum i was able to complete my cruise control addition which has been amazing seeing that I drive 100 miles roundtrip to work everyday.

So back to the autostart, I got some wiretaps for the rest of the connections that are needed but I am a little unsure about the starter part and the clutch bypass.

This will be the third alarm I install and the other two were alot easier (no autostart).

Let me know how you got yours hooked up so that when I actually start the job it won't turn into a whole day event.

Thanks
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:26 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by bad_bwoy007 View Post
Hey CTScott,

I just got an Ultrastart 1280 and can't wait to install it this weekend.

The manual:
http://www.ultrastarters.com/Feature...L-REV-2008.pdf

Did you have to cut any wires in terms of connecting to the starter and ignition wires of the car?

I have a 2010 Liftback with no power or keyless entry.


Thanks to this forum i was able to complete my cruise control addition which has been amazing seeing that I drive 100 miles roundtrip to work everyday.

So back to the autostart, I got some wiretaps for the rest of the connections that are needed but I am a little unsure about the starter part and the clutch bypass.

This will be the third alarm I install and the other two were alot easier (no autostart).

Let me know how you got yours hooked up so that when I actually start the job it won't turn into a whole day event.

Thanks

I didn't cut any on mine - All connections were just taps. But, if you are going to hook-up the anti-grind, then that is the one place where you have to cut and insert the remote starter connections in between. I typically don't bother hooking up the anti-grind on my own cars.

For the clutch bypass, you will wire it as a "type 3" where the normally open relay contacts will be connected to the yellow and black wires on the clutch switch connector (so those are taps, rather than cuts).
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:21 PM   #117
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Thanks for the quick response.

So is this how the relay should be hooked up?



If so, what would you use as you 12 volt pulse to activate the relay?

The Starter output?

PIN-1 YELLOW Starter Output-This wire will test 0V when the key is off, in the Accessory position and when
the Ignition is in the on position. The starter wire is 12volts during the start/ crank position only.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:43 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by bad_bwoy007 View Post
Thanks for the quick response.

So is this how the relay should be hooked up?



If so, what would you use as you 12 volt pulse to activate the relay?

The Starter output?

PIN-1 YELLOW Starter Output-This wire will test 0V when the key is off, in the Accessory position and when
the Ignition is in the on position. The starter wire is 12volts during the start/ crank position only.
Correct - The starter output wire should feed the relay coil.
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:10 PM   #119
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Thanks for all the help. You are the man.
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:32 PM   #120
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Installation Troubles

CTScott,

Got so troubles here with the install.



I'm just doing a quick test to see if I could get the system to start.

I have the:
Yellow(Output to starter circuit) to Black(Yaris - Starter)
Green(Output to ACC circuit) to White(Yaris - ACC)
Red
Red
*Both Red wires tapped together then into the 12v fuse location.
White(2nd IGN) to Pink(Yaris - IGN#2)
Blue(IGN circuit) to Green(Yaris - IGN#1)

For now I am just pressing the clutch switch with my hand, will bypass it later.

Only thing I can think of is if my wiretaps didn't make solid connections. I did undo and redo some to verify there where connecting.

Currently I am simulating the system:
I have the system ground connected to ground.

On the 13 wire connection, I only need the Brake switch, park brake, and door input for now.

I also attempted the reservation mode to no avail.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION INSTALL MANUAL SYSTEM PROGRAMMING - Menu 1
RESERVATION MODE
Manual transmission remote starters must be set into Reservation Mode before the remote starter will activate. The activation type of Reservation Mode is determined when the system is installed.
Auto Reservation Mode (Default) 1- While the vehicle is running, place into neutral and apply the park brake.
2*- Press and release the brake pedal twice. The park lights will flash twice, the SIREN or HORN (opt.) will chirp twice and the doors will unlock (opt.). 3-Turn the ignition key off and the vehicle will continue running. 4**- Within 30 seconds, exit the vehicle and close all the doors. The vehicle will then shut off .
Manual Reservation Mode (Optional) 1- While the vehicle is running with the key, place transmission into neutral
and apply the park brake. 2- Press and release the START button. The park lights will flash twice, the SIREN or HORN (opt.) will chirp twice and the doors will unlock (opt.). 3- Turn the ignition key off and the vehicle will continue running. 4- Exit the vehicle and close all the doors. 5**- Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds, the vehicle will then shut off.
* If the park lights do not flash and stay on or the SIREN (HORN optional) chirps a third time, repeat Step 2. ** If the vehicle has dome light delay, the vehicle may stay running until the dome light turns off. This is normally no longer than 30 seconds.
**TEST RESERVATION MODE**
1) Press the start button on the remote without setting the Reservation Mode. The park lights should flash 4 times without starting the vehicle. If the vehicle starts THE WRONG REMOTE STARTER HAS BEEN INSTALLED!!!
2) Set the Reservation Mode then remote start the vehicle. Shut off with the remote wait 10 seconds then open the passenger door. Press Start on the remote and Reservation Mode should be cancelled. (4 flashes) if not, check for proper door pin connections.
*****FOR SAFETY REASONS ALL DOOR PINS INCLUDING THE REAR HATCH MUST BE CONNECTED.******

Any ideas?
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:41 PM   #121
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What does it do or not do?
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:17 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
What does it do or not do?
Well I just spend 2 hours outside verifying some connections.

I am grounding the park brake connection for now and connecting the negative door input (when opened) to 12 volts to simulate doors closed.

Hood pin switch is not connect to anything and it's reading positive voltage so that is good.

For now i'm just pushing the clutch with my foot.

When i push the start button the park lights just flash 4 times. I tried to enter reservation mode but nothing happened after i pushed the brake pedal twice.

I checked the brake connection and it does read 12 volts into the unit so that connection is good.

All wires are still connected to the starter, acc, & ign as listed above.


Last edited by bad_bwoy007; 04-09-2011 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:44 PM   #123
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4 flashes means that it is not in reservation mode. Are you doing the procedure on page 29 to arm the starting?
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:46 PM   #124
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4 flashes means that it is not in reservation mode. Are you doing the procedure on page 29 to arm the starting?
Yes, I tried Auto reservation and when i pressed the brake pedal the lights did not flash.

I repeated again and got nothing.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:50 PM   #125
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Yes, I tried Auto reservation and when i pressed the brake pedal the lights did not flash.

I repeated again and got nothing.
Maybe it needs to see the transition from e-brake off to e-brake on before pressing the brake pedal?
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:03 PM   #126
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Maybe it needs to see the transition from e-brake off to e-brake on before pressing the brake pedal?
Just tried that too, meaning disconnect from ground then reconnect. Still no luck.
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