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Old 03-24-2015, 05:59 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ectoman View Post
Thank you for the advice I'll try that next time, I already got the tube on albeit a little warped but it's fully snug onto the barbed male end - it won't come off I tried pulling it off it is on there good, so it should hold right?
Go with it! My nail solution is probably wrong. You need THE TOOL and practice to do the install...
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:57 AM   #20
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Hi guys I have the Fuel pump assembly put back in but started it several times but I can't get the car to start. Does the Fuel pump assy have to be charged with petrol prior to starting or can it just be simply immersed in the tank and then it would draw the fuel into the device? I'm thinking and dreading buying the whole pump assy, but i think i may have to, especially after i put on that black hose with heat, there may be a vacuum leak and not drawing fuel correctly? Well I guess I'll have to shell out that cash if I want it done right, so much for trying to go the cheap route:(
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:02 AM   #21
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Post The Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
Go with it! My nail solution is probably wrong. You need THE TOOL and practice to do the install...
Hi Bronsin do you know where I would find this TOOL? If so let me know appreciate your feedback sir.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ectoman View Post
Hi Bronsin do you know where I would find this TOOL? If so let me know appreciate your feedback sir.
It is a pretty expensive tool:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...188aAm4p8P8HAQ
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:08 PM   #23
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Wink Gratitude

Hey thanks again for your rapid responses CT!! By the way do you possess this TOOL?
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ectoman View Post
Hey thanks again for your rapid responses CT!! By the way do you possess this TOOL?
No. I almost bought one for a project I was working on, but ended up using fuel injection rated hose instead of the plastic tubing, as it is hard to talk yourself into buying a tool that you will only use once in a blue moon.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:59 AM   #25
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Hi Bronsin do you know where I would find this TOOL? If so let me know appreciate your feedback sir.
No. Didnt it work what you did?

MAkes me long for my 74 VW. It didnt need $82 tools to fix the plumbing...

You really dont need to be changing this filter just for the heck of it. Onky if the car doesnt run because the filters FUBAR.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:37 AM   #26
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Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France).
Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter.
will appreciate any help...
thank you
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:38 AM   #27
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Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France).
Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter.
will appreciate any help...
thank you
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:07 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Kirill View Post
Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France).
Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter.
will appreciate any help...
thank you
Toyota only lists the fuel filter as part of the entire fuel sender assembly, so you would have to find an aftermarket filter to replace it with.

The Toyota part number for the whole assembly is: 77024-0D080, but it looks like the cost is over 200 Euros. An aftermarket filter should be less than 40 Euros.
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:08 AM   #29
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I have tried to open this thing but i couldnt, i have taken out the whole tank but still i did not make it.. any other tip?
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:37 PM   #30
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I have tried to open this thing but i couldnt, i have taken out the whole tank but still i did not make it.. any other tip?
There are two methods (without buying the expensive Toyota tool):

1. Beat it off with a hammer and piece of wood. This will damage some of the ribs on the cap, and will be a heck of a workout, but does work.

2. Make a tool, like the picture below. I created this a few years ago and a couple of people on here have had them made, based on my design. I simply took a piece of scrap pipe, cut a piece in half, and welded the cut sections to the main piece. This perfectly catches the ribs on the cap and allows easy unscrewing and tightening of the cap:

fuel tank tool.jpg
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:13 AM   #31
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I am one of the ones that copied Scott's design. If you do an advanced search for fuel tank tool for posts with my handle I have posted photos with measurements.

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Old 06-16-2016, 12:46 AM   #32
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ectoman,

So boiling water isn't hot enough to make the tubing pliable enough to slip over the nipple properly.

Raise the temperature of the boiling water.

Add salt to it.

I think for every tsp. of salt into a quart of water you can raise the boiling temp. 1 or 2 degrees F.

Or or you could try heating some salt in an oven, regular old table salt in an oven proof dish to a set temp, say 240 degrees F. stick the end of the tubing in there for several seconds and try it on the nipple. Do this incrementally so as not to damage the tubing. Test it. It may take a couple of tries raising the temp a bit at a time. That could work without damaging the tubing and getting a proper seat on the nipple.

Of course I have no idea what effect salt or a concentrated saline solution would have on the short or long term integrity of the tubing would be, I doubt it would be anything really, it would only be in contact briefly, so of course, you do this at your own risk.

cheers.


Don't ask how I know this, suffice to say I learned it in college.

Last edited by NEexpat; 06-17-2016 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:09 AM   #33
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Thumbs down

WTF the yaris has no fuel filter on the firewall like every car has had for decades?
I was thinking of changing the filter and found this.

this is the stupidest thing I ever saw...its in the tank?





wow thats ridiculous.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38381
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:16 AM   #34
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Hi, I am a new member, this thread appears suitable for my needs, I have a Yaris Vitz 2003 1.3 L dohc 16v petrol but we have lots of sleeping policemen in our neighbourhood and things do "get a little bumpy" round here. My car started to die, all cylinders stopped firing together. Sprayed around the electrics with water repellant WDxx. Car started but died after a short spell. Started after a while but again died after a short run. Decided to change the fuel filter first!

Any ideas on the part number required to fit this model? What range of models will this part fit? I ask because there is so much 'information' out there some sense of "cross reference" will help me avoid buying the wrong part.


Many thanks for any answers to my request for help. I've gotten attached to this steady car and I do not want to let go while I know I can fix this problem.
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Old 02-06-2023, 03:55 PM   #35
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Changed fuel filter

Hi,
My first post here after some lurking. I just did the fuel filter change. Since I already had the special tool from Dorman I couldn't wait to try it after reading through this thread. Too bad the tool doesn't work without some modification. The bar is too short. Fortunately I had an Irwin Quick Grip clamp that had a longer bar that would fit in the tool. This worked great and the plastic tube went on the nipple past the two barbs. I took some pics but did not take any of the tube going on. Also the tool is made for straight tubing without the little bulges so I only tightened the black clamp thing only until it securely gripped the tube.

I used compressed air to force the regulator out of the old filter which caused it to shoot out. I first put it together without the plastic spacer ring since it went flying. I noticed it later and had to take apart again.

If your Yaris has over 100,000 miles, changing the fuel filter will definitely make a difference going up steep hills and under full throttle. Don't listen to those in this thread who say this filter does not need to be changed. Just look at the dirt in the old filter.

The tool is really overpriced. It's just a squeeze clamp with with special attachments. You could probably make one by modifying an Irwin Quick Grip clamp. But don't try this job without it. The boiling water trick does not work or didn't work for me. That's why I bought the tool many years ago.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6DKrGkXu3fEA1cUr9
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File Type: jpg PXL_20230207_042817299.jpg (181.8 KB, 42 views)

Last edited by Pasable; 02-07-2023 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 02-07-2023, 09:17 PM   #36
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After driving a few days with a new fuel filter, I have to say there is a big difference. Before the car drove like an 80's, malaise era econobox. Now it's like a 2000s car like it should be. I can spin the tires and there's actual torque steer when I gas it. It really feels like a new car.

Modern cars can't really be given a tune up but the fuel filter is the one thing you can change to get a big improvement. Changing the spark plugs, air oil filters, etc doesn't really do anything to improve performance unless they are really bad. Modern iridium plugs last a long time.

So I encourage everyone to do it but you need the tool or a substitute like I made in the picture. Once you cut the old tube off you need to be able to put the new one on or you're screwed.

Last edited by Pasable; 02-07-2023 at 09:27 PM.
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