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12-20-2020, 11:33 AM | #1 |
Drives: Toyota yaris sedan 2007 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
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Oil change on and off
I've noticed today when I did a really hard brake that the light came on for a sec and turned off, I still have 1.5k miles to 5k miles and the oil level is full.
My car has 274000 miles on it. I drive daily as a curior. Should I change it more often? Not sure whats causing this. I've only seen it on extremely hard braking. Anyone know what the issue might be or is it just me worrying about nothing? Maybe just oil slushing and triggers the light? https://youtu.be/o6OVFfxl5Oo like that.yes I'm aware my brake pad squeals:) |
12-20-2020, 12:41 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 506
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That's oil pressure light not the oil change light. You must be low on oil or have oil pressure issues.
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12-20-2020, 01:25 PM | #3 |
if it still persists with new oil filter and new quality oil then I would change oil pressure sensor. They are not expensive and they are quite often the culprit.
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12-20-2020, 02:35 PM | #4 |
Drives: Toyota yaris sedan 2007 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
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12-21-2020, 01:04 AM | #5 |
It depends on the engine you have. I suppose you do not have the 2SZFE I have experience with.
Maybe this is a stupid question as there may be only one engine type available in your country. I do not know. |
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12-21-2020, 08:14 AM | #6 |
Drives: Toyota yaris sedan 2007 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
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Well I've done some checks. It needed oil as pointed out, so refilled. Now I opened the engine oil cap and I noticed some solid oil but doesn't look like sludge. It looks like build up. Anyway it prevented me from looking all the day down to the engine bay, the oil colour is fine. Not black but healthy.
I'm not sure what that buildup is but it looks like hot milk you boiled and let the skin form but black. |
12-21-2020, 09:14 AM | #7 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
__________________
2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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12-22-2020, 09:33 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2011 Yaris Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Here's that plate inside my engine after ten years. |
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12-22-2020, 09:54 AM | #9 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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I don't like engine flushes either. When I bought my 2008 LE, it had low and very black oil. Owned by idiots. I did 3 1000 km oil changes. It cleaned the engine up beautifully. With each consecutive oil change, the oil came out cleaner. The first one was ugly. Car ran smooth and quiet after that. The detergents in modern engine oil do a great job of subtlety cleaning, not extreme and risky like a powerful solvent- based product.
__________________
2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
12-26-2020, 05:52 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 142
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You need to overfill the oil (within reason) or get a new oil pan with proper compartments to avoid oil starvation at strong maneuvers. If you only get this oil pressure light during hard braking with oil level full it's a badly designed oil pan/oil pickup. If you drive it like this too many times while oil light is on it may ruin the bearings on the crankshaft and explode the engine. Most likely will be fine because you're not straining the engine while braking but I would avoid triggering low oil pressure at all costs
Edit: this problem has nothing to do with engine condition, filter condition, or sludge. If so you would get oil light at idle in park and neutral or at stop with engine running in gear. If oil is picked up properly by pickup tube the oil pressure is up with no strain but high rpm and lower oil pressure occurs with high strain and low rpm. Oil pump speed increases linear with rpm and any fault in engine would be exacerbated with low rpm and high engine load/strain. His condition is above or at idle with minimal load and if he doesn't experience this oil pressure light at idle to take off (moving) it leads me to believe his engine/oil pump is healthy. If the oil was significantly lower than the acceptable range it was probably just very low on oil after a bad measure during oil change or oil consumption from PCV, worn piston rings, or worn valve stem seals. All of those problems are easy fixes. Replace pcv, engine restore for piston/cylinder walls, and seal restore additive in engine oil for valve stem seals. Last edited by IndestructibleYaris; 12-26-2020 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Double post |
12-26-2020, 07:07 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
__________________
2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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12-28-2020, 08:50 PM | #12 |
Drives: Toyota yaris sedan 2007 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
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I'm using high milage oil, turned out my car was just low on oil, I refilled and she runs good again. Im gonna swap my pcv valve and see if this stops the leak.
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12-29-2020, 05:30 PM | #13 |
Drives: Toyota yaris sedan 2007 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
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Swapped the pcv. Hopefully this will do the trick. Other tips I should check?
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01-08-2021, 08:22 AM | #14 |
Tw200--excellent!
Drives: 2010 yaris..absolutely red. Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 209
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Unless I missed your answer, at what mileage interval do you change oil?. Use a good synthetic engine oil , example only is Mobil 1 5w 30. Your a courier correct?, possibly change engine oil earlier than usual.
Good on you for changing PCV. Check air filter too.....change if necessary ( especially if you can't recall last change or over a year since last change). Clean the Mass Airflow sensor with MAF (Mass Airflow ) cleaner.....CRC is a good brand. Do not touch the sensor bulb with your hands / gloves. The above cleaner dries within seconds.....easy job to do. |
01-17-2021, 07:37 AM | #15 | |
Drives: Toyota yaris sedan 2007 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
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Quote:
I'm thinking of doing every 3 to 4k instead. The oil stopped leaking. It seems it was the pcv. Milage also increased |
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05-10-2021, 03:22 PM | #16 |
Drives: Yaris T1 Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: South Africa
Posts: 44
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When my PCV clogged, it drank the oil. I found a giant puddle of oil in my airbox. You might want to inspect your airbox housing.
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