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Old 08-27-2013, 08:14 PM   #1
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Help Me get My Passenger Seat Out!

I want to remove my passanger seat.

Is there already a DIY?

Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:56 PM   #2
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You need an E10 socket for the bolts (an inverse torx). Slide the seat back, and remove the two front bolts, slide it forward and remove the two rear bolts, disconnect the connector to the passenger occupancy ECU (which is mounted to the bottom of the seat) and lift it out.

If you turn the ignition on while the seat is removed you will log some DTCs for the SRS ECU, and the airbag light will stay illuminated on the dash. Once you put in back in you can clear them using this procedure:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d=1#post557473
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:14 AM   #3
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CAn you drive the car with the seat out? I want to go 500 miles. Whats a dct?
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
CAn you drive the car with the seat out? I want to go 500 miles. Whats a dct?
You can, but will log DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) on the SRS ECU and will have to reset them after.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:33 AM   #5
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Wow that sounds complicated. And my NJ inspection is coming up next April. All they do for that is check the computer for codes. It would suck if I couldnt clear them.

I have a scan tool will that reset it?

How about having Toyota do it...for free?

CAn you plug a pretend seat into the connector?
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:57 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
Wow that sounds complicated. And my NJ inspection is coming up next April. All they do for that is check the computer for codes. It would suck if I couldnt clear them.

I have a scan tool will that reset it?

How about having Toyota do it...for free?

CAn you plug a pretend seat into the connector?
No

No

Yes - My Occupant Classification Bypass Module (which Micro Image sells) will do the trick perfectly:

http://shop.microimageonline.com/Air...dule-OCSBM.htm
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:16 AM   #7
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That jumper proceedure...

If you made a wire with a pair of connectors on the end and a switch in the middle Im thinking that would make the job easier....
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:37 AM   #8
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That jumper proceedure...

If you made a wire with a pair of connectors on the end and a switch in the middle Im thinking that would make the job easier....
Indeed it would.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:57 PM   #9
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SO it looks like you attach the jumper with a switch, ignition off switch on.

Switch on ignition.

Cycle the switch for times cued by the SRS light going on or off.

If the error codes dont flash you did it!
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:03 PM   #10
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OH you can also READ THE CODES with this setup!

(slowly the lights go on in my brain)

As well as banish them for inspection!

A poors mans scan tool!

WOW!

That switch with the connectors is a MUST HAVE!

WHats a good connector to use?
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:36 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
OH you can also READ THE CODES with this setup!

(slowly the lights go on in my brain)

As well as banish them for inspection!

WOW!

That switch with the connectors is a MUST HAVE!

WHats a good connector to use?
Something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OBD2-16-...3ad989&vxp=mtr
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:15 PM   #12
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Yes - My Occupant Classification Bypass Module (which Micro Image sells) will do the trick perfectly:
Amazing. In addition to the Yaris, would this device also work on a RAV4 and/or a standard Prius?
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:30 PM   #13
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Amazing. In addition to the Yaris, would this device also work on a RAV4 and/or a standard Prius?
It will work an all Toyota vehicles that use the 89952-035011 Passenger Occupancy ECU. Which is >90% of Toyotas from 2005-2011. My largest market has actually been for FJ Cruisers.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:58 PM   #14
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8mm socket works too.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:46 AM   #15
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8mm socket works too.
Cool I have one of those.

Wont an 8mm wrench work too?
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:26 AM   #16
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It's very difficult to use a wrench there. I will use the socket.
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:47 AM   #17
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Cool I have one of those.

Wont an 8mm wrench work too?
Be careful if you use an 8mm socket instead of an E10. The bolts go through the floor, so if there is any corrosion on the bottom end you will risk rounding them off with the 8mm.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:00 AM   #18
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That's true! Also the socket.that I use is the one that has 6 face. If the socket wiggle in the bolt, don' even try it.
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