DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 10 - Toyota Yaris Forums

mikenacarato · 05-05-2009, 11:04 PM

and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.

I have my 1ZZ installed with an AFE intake also. I bolted the TB to the intake manifold first, then slid the coupler onto the TB as far as it would go, right up to the studs. I couldn't fit a hose clamp on there either, but I've driven it about 1,000 miles with no problems. The coupler is wedged in between the intake and TB pretty tightly, so I don't think you'll have any problems with it moving/leaking. I know others are using the same TB & intake with no hose clamp, so I think you'll be fine

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenacarato

and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

I tried to use a hose clamp when I did the install the first time. It stayed on for bit, but once the engine got hot, the clamp popped right off. The neck of the TB isn't long enough to clear the studs & fit a hose clamp.

Yaris T-Sport. · 05-05-2009, 11:09 PM

thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yaris T-Sport.

thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

It wasn't the width/diameter that was a problem, it was the length of the TB's neck that stuck out past the studs. It was barely wider than the hose clamp itself, so it kept slipping & popping off

Yaris T-Sport. · 05-05-2009, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

It wasn't the width/diameter that was a problem, it was the length of the TB's neck that stuck out past the studs. It was barely wider than the hose clamp itself, so it kept slipping & popping off

maybe use a few zip ties?

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yaris T-Sport.

maybe use a few zip ties?

lol that thought actually occurred to me as I was typing my previous post. Like I said, I haven't had any problems not having the clamp, but if I do I'll use a strong zip tie

PHXDEMON · 05-05-2009, 11:28 PM

I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

mikenacarato · 05-05-2009, 11:45 PM

get 3 more bolts like the one lower left bolt and replace the 3 studs.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 12:16 AM

Just finished the install and holy fucking oscillation

form 1000-3000 rpm from a cold start. I tried driving around a little bit and it started jumping up to 4k on idle

and a CEL. How long does it typically take for the oscillation to start smoothing out? It's too late here (9:15) to mess around with it more. Don't want to piss off the neighbors. Any suggestions?

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 12:20 AM

It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 12:28 AM

I am doing to leave the battery disconnected overnight incase 2 hours wasnt enough.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

Did the oscillation slowly smoothe out or did it just stop out of nowhere? How much driving did you do in 2 days?

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 12:38 AM

I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

Damn I was still gettingm oscillation and my motor was getting pretty warm. Is there an an idiot light that turns on if it starts overheating?

PHXDEMON · 05-06-2009, 01:27 AM

WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation

Hopefully it stays that way. I didn't want to even take it around the block because I have had about half a beer and their are mad cops out for cinco de mayo. Hopefully I will have a nice drive to work tomorrow

MGargano · 05-06-2009, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation

Don't be surprised if the oscillation comes and goes for the first couple days. This happened to me and I thought everything was fine, then I got oscillation on the next cold start. Just be patient and give it a few days to work itself out.

yarstar · 05-06-2009, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

No clamp for months now on mine and no problems.

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05-05-2009, 11:04 PM	#163
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

05-05-2009, 11:09 PM	#166
Yaris T-Sport. Drives: . Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: . Posts: 10	thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

05-05-2009, 11:28 PM	#170
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

05-05-2009, 11:45 PM	#171
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	get 3 more bolts like the one lower left bolt and replace the 3 studs.

05-06-2009, 12:16 AM	#172
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	Just finished the install and holy fucking oscillation form 1000-3000 rpm from a cold start. I tried driving around a little bit and it started jumping up to 4k on idle and a CEL. How long does it typically take for the oscillation to start smoothing out? It's too late here (9:15) to mess around with it more. Don't want to piss off the neighbors. Any suggestions?

05-06-2009, 12:20 AM	#173
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

05-06-2009, 12:28 AM	#174
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	I am doing to leave the battery disconnected overnight incase 2 hours wasnt enough.

05-06-2009, 12:38 AM	#176
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

05-06-2009, 01:27 AM	#178
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation Hopefully it stays that way. I didn't want to even take it around the block because I have had about half a beer and their are mad cops out for cinco de mayo. Hopefully I will have a nice drive to work tomorrow