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11-14-2014, 08:43 AM | #1 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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Posts: 9
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Another remote starter question
I have read the awesome guide posted by CTScott and am about to start my install but have a couple questions before I begin. Searched around but couldn't find a direct answer to my question.
Looking at a basic remote from Canadian Tire. I attached it's install guide. On Pg. 10. Wire A and C are both 12v + so would they both attach via the spade connection at the under dash fuse panel? Pg 11. Am I correct that wire E matches up with our accessory input and wire F matches up with our second ignition? Last question, based on that install guide is there an available wire I could use to power the rear window defroster? Thanks!! |
11-14-2014, 09:08 AM | #2 |
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Correct on all of those.
For the rear window defroster you could connect an accessory output of the the remote starter (must be a negative output) to pin 12 of connector 4Q. If you only want to be able to fire it at will (rather than every time the car remote starts) you would use the trunk release of the remote starter for it.
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11-14-2014, 11:50 AM | #3 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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Thank you so much CTScott. One thing I'm confused on, all of the (-ve) accessory outputs I see listed in the remote starter install guide have specific functions listed underneath each. Would you be able to point me in the direction of the specific one I could use in this case? The remote does not have a trunk release button so I cannot use that option.
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11-14-2014, 01:06 PM | #4 |
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The AUX3 output (aka trunk output in your manual) would be the one to use. If there is not a button on the remote for trunk release, look at the manual and there is probably some combination of buttons or extended pressing of a button that does that function.
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12-23-2014, 02:25 PM | #5 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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Okay so I finally got around to doing this yesterday / today. And of course I can't get it working.
When I go to start the car everything turns on, dash, lights etc. but no engine crank, click or anything. It attempts this 3 times with the dash etc. turning on and then gives up. I rechecked all of my connections and they look good. What would be the likely culprit here?? Help! Thanks :) Last edited by 08yarissedan; 12-23-2014 at 03:19 PM. |
12-23-2014, 03:31 PM | #6 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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My connections are as follows:
6 Pin main ignition harness: A - Red 12v to Under dash fuse panel via spade connection B - Purple starter output to CONN D8, Pin 7 on Yaris C - Red 12v to Under dash fuse panel via spade connection D - Yellow Ignition Output to CONN D8, Pin 1 on yaris E - Orange Accessories output to CONN D8 Pin 2 on yaris F - Green 5th relay output to CONN D* Pin 6 on yaris 5 pin secondary harness 1 - Black ground to ground location on yaris 2 - Purple tach input to OBD Connector D15 Pin 9 on yaris 3- Gray hood switch 4 - Orange brake switch to top of brake pedal arm CONN A13, Pin 1 5 - Yellow parking light (+ve) to under dash fuse panel CONN 4A, Pin 29 No other connections were made aside from an accessory to start the rear window defrost and the necessary ones for the bypass module. |
12-23-2014, 06:03 PM | #7 |
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The remote starter should have a diagnostic mode which flashes the lights in a pattern to tell you why it isn't happy. Typically if it powers up but doesn't crank it is due to the remote starter being in the wrong mode or not having one of the safety connections correct
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12-23-2014, 06:42 PM | #8 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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Yes I get 3 flashes of the parking lights but the manual is less then helpful only indicating that its a failed start.
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12-23-2014, 06:54 PM | #9 |
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Look at page 23 of the manual you posted above. There is a secondary chart of codes for "failed start".
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12-23-2014, 07:02 PM | #10 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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Sorry I should have specified that was the chart I was referring to. So under the diagnostic table for shutdown, 3 parking flashes indicate a failed start. The table below that one wouldn't apply in this case as the parking brake is not active nor is the yellow loop connected.
One thing I was thinking CTScott, in your guide you mentioned that its possible to tap into either of the two black starter wires at the ignition. Is there a chance that for some reason the one may prove to be effective over the other? That is my next step is to re-check my connection at that wire. I know the ignition ones are working well because the car fires up with dash etc. So I'm wondering if the starter wire could be the culprit? EDIT: The remote car starter is able to turn the car off if I start it normally. I can also start the car normally, press the start button on the remote and then remove the keys from the car and it remains running. SO, does this mean my starter is actually okay and I should be looking to the bypass for my issue?? Last edited by 08yarissedan; 12-23-2014 at 09:25 PM. |
12-23-2014, 09:53 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Did you set the jumper to "2nd ignition"? Did you make the changes to switch it from manual tranny to auto, as it is set for manual by default? (page 15) Did you do the tach learning procedure?
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12-23-2014, 09:55 PM | #12 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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Jumper is on 2nd ignition
Cut the yellow loop so it is set for auto Tach learning procedure has been done I just can't seem to wrap my head around where I'm going wrong. |
12-23-2014, 11:17 PM | #13 |
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Measure the voltage on the wire from the remote starter that connects to the starter wire to see if it is actually being powered. If not, then it is likely the unit.
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12-24-2014, 01:23 PM | #14 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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I've really gone and done it now. The car starts normal with the key, however all of the warnings are lit up on the dash, airbag etc. and the car will not move from park. I've some how done something to the car but I haven't touched any of the wiring today.
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12-24-2014, 01:40 PM | #15 |
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Check the 10A GAUGE fuse in the box that is under the bottom of the dash and check the 7.5A ACC2 fuse that is attached to the side of the fuse box behind the dash storage cup.
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12-24-2014, 04:42 PM | #16 |
Drives: Yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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SOLVED. The issue with the car not running normally was because one of the ignition wires I had soldered came loose (Due to a bad solder job on my part and the angle at which the cable was twisting).
Also got the starter to work! The remote starter had two 12v power cables and there was two open connections on the Yaris so I used a female spade connector for each cable and assumed all was well. Trouble shooting today pulled out the multimeter and found the lower of the two connection on the yaris has no power. So I put both 12v power cables together into one female spade connector and attached to the top slot and it worked!! CTScott thank you for putting your guide together, it made this process a whole lot easier! |
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