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Old 12-08-2006, 12:14 AM   #19
bigsky2
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I don't know, maybe the ranch dressing is getting to me..
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DIY Speaker Spacer/Bracket Template for Yaris Hatchback http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1930
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Old 12-08-2006, 01:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Yaris View Post
what is it with the Canadian and all there funny names for things?
GOLD (disambiguation)

From UrbanDictionary:
http://www.urbanup.com/892591

Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban Dictionary
Something that is classic like a practical joke you will laugh about in future

guy trips over and lands upside down in bush his mates go "shit man that shit was gold."
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban Dictionary
1. An expression for descriping a positive situation, experience, or object.

2. A term to express an appreciation of high quality.

We had a good time at the club last night, it was gold.
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Old 12-08-2006, 11:46 AM   #21
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Let's keep up with the topic guys

I'm trying to remove the lower bolt on the rear shock. No way, the deep socket starts slipping, looks like it's very tighten. Any hint ? Shall I try on the bolt head side

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Old 12-08-2006, 11:55 AM   #22
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OMG! I see now

PLEASE go edit the original topic and specify to put the box on the BOLT'S head, not on the nut. This will save for much effort and frustrations. Not every one knows that on rear shock the lower bolts shall be losen by the bolt's head - it's not the first car i'm doing this but I just forgot it. Trying to turn the Nut it's pain in the @ss since it's either a lock nut either a soldered nut.
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Old 12-08-2006, 12:32 PM   #23
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Sometimes if the nuts / bolts are overlly tight you can link two wrenches together (box end of one wrench linked into the open end of the other) - provided you dont have a breaker bar. This works fairly well most times and ive never had trouble rounding off the heads of either the nut/bolt. The shocks on my truck when I bought it were probably still original circa 1970 and this method worked like a charm cause I didnt have room for a breaker bar.

Just watch your knuckles.
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Old 12-08-2006, 03:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hystria View Post
Let's keep up with the topic guys

I'm trying to remove the lower bolt on the rear shock. No way, the deep socket starts slipping, looks like it's very tighten. Any hint ? Shall I try on the bolt head side



Open box wrench and some COJONES with it
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Old 12-08-2006, 07:15 PM   #25
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........find a mechanic that can do the install.

No offence, but if you are having trouble just removing the rear nut/bolt, id hate to see when you when you move to the front.
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Old 12-08-2006, 07:42 PM   #26
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........find a mechanic that can do the install.

No offence, but if you are having trouble just removing the rear nut/bolt, id hate to see when you when you move to the front.

usually we put the box on the nut. those nuts on the rear shock are self locking, try to losen that not every one knows about it. that was the idea putting the box on this bolt's head works like a breeze.

btw, there's no need to remove the rear wheels when changing the springs
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Old 12-08-2006, 07:55 PM   #27
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There is no such thing as a self locking nut.
Its a nut and a bolt, stop trying to reinvent the wheel here..

"btw", if you rather jack the car up higher then you need to, then keep the wheels on. Im sure there are steps that can be done faster/different, then my How_To post stated.. it was ment to be a very straight foward, info packed post to follow, even for the weekend shade tree machinic.

My How_To was to help guys that had no clue going in to this install, feel confident that they could do it with a little time and the correct tools. Its nice not having to pay people for things you can learn to do yourself.
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Old 12-08-2006, 08:08 PM   #28
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A little trick

Here's a way to create more leverage for those hard to get nuts. This will work with ratchets and wrenches. Find the correct size socket or wrench in this case a 9/16 deep socket; 1/2 drive and 9/16 box wrench for the nut and bolt, get the set up ready, find a wrench big enough that the handle of the ratchet fit through the close side of the wrench, you'll position the wrench with the angle side up, just like in the picture, and give the nut a try, that should brake the torque fairly easy. give it a try and let us know
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Old 12-08-2006, 08:13 PM   #29
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Good tip..

But air tools and electric impact guns make cake of these nuts/bolts.
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Old 12-08-2006, 09:30 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris07LB View Post
There is no such thing as a self locking nut.
Its a nut and a bolt, stop trying to reinvent the wheel here..

"btw", if you rather jack the car up higher then you need to, then keep the wheels on. Im sure there are steps that can be done faster/different, then my How_To post stated.. it was ment to be a very straight foward, info packed post to follow, even for the weekend shade tree machinic.

My How_To was to help guys that had no clue going in to this install, feel confident that they could do it with a little time and the correct tools. Its nice not having to pay people for things you can learn to do yourself.
Chris, if you pull out the nut you can see that it has 4 little "lines" on the side facing the shock. This prevents the nut from self loosing but also make it hard to loosen with basic tools. On my 90 civic the same nut was welded - I almost broke my back trying to losen it
Your DIY is what people need before starting the same job, so we found out what the tricks and hard steps are to come
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