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Old 09-03-2020, 12:36 AM   #1
scarsofcarma
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Posts: 9
08 Yaris 'S' Turbo Build

Hello all, new member here. I was curious what other turbo Yaris projects are out there and was happy to find this forum. I am an ASE certified master automotive technician, former HPDE track instructor, Drifting judge/coach, SCCA crew chief, auto-x/rally-x competitor and speed shop manager. I have owned 38 different vehicles (thus far), and modified most of them.



My Yaris has a bit over 60k miles at this point. Originally this was a plain commuter/daily driver. At about 20k miles it was upgraded with a lightweight Fidanza flywheel and a TRD clutch, Intake and exhaust. When originally dyno tuned for a baseline (at about 43k miles) the car made 77whp.

The next phase was adding an OSGiken Limited slip differential, Haltech Standalone and KW Variant 3 Coilovers. To my knowledge this was the first Yaris EVER to utilize a Haltech ECU. There was a lot of back and forth with Haltech directly in Australia to work out a base map before dyno tuning. (Just the ECU upgrade added 12whp)

Less than a year after that the notion to turbocharge it really started to pick up steam. With the coilovers, standalone and LSD already installed a lot of the hard work preparing the chassis had already been done. Pulling the engine for a complete teardown while sourcing more parts was the next step.

I selected a new GARRETT GT25/54 ball bearing turbocharger for its great response and rock solid reliability. (I have previous experience with this turbo on a turbo 1.6L Miata track car.) For added insurance I opted to have many of the engine internals cryogenically treated for added durability, strength and reduced friction.

Further work on the chassis and mocking up the engine was a slow process. For example, some minor clearancing had to be done with the engine block to fit the beefy forged rods. +5mm oversized forged pistons were chosen at a 9:01 compression ratio.




'Life's Good Racing' of Livermore California handled the final engine assembly after all the prep work was complete and the custom exhaust was fabricated. Soon after it was running and driving (for the break in period) further tweaks were necessary. It was also clear it needed a better performance radiator which had to be custom made.

After that I had a hell of a time finding a dyno tuner. It seemed they were all afraid of blowing it up or else did not have the necessary experience with Haltech . Eventually FFTEC Motorsports of Hayward California agreed to do the tune. They measured 204whp @ 10.5psi on 'conservative' settings.

I plan to raise the boost a bit more, but I am proceeding with caution. I want to put more thought into the setup to be sure its ok for it. My main concern are the stock valves and valve springs, as well as the OEM intake manifold and throttle body. I feel those are likely limiting factors in terms of overall efficiency of flow in engine breathing and reliability holding higher boost. I am also thinking of possibly adding water injection.

As is though it is plenty quick and fun to drive. I am using it as my daily driver and SCCA Solo auto-x competition car. It is classed as 'Extreme Street B' in its current setup.

This Yaris is always a work in progress. Just today for example I rewired the Haltech from the engine bay into the passenger compartment. Further upgrades are planned ...slowly but surely... it's taken a lot of work to get it this far and there's a lot left I want to do.

Current Parts List

Engine Internals: (Cryogenically Treated*)
- 9:01 75.5mm CP Forged Pistons*
- Brian Crower 'Sportsman' Forged Rods*
- ARP Head Studs
- ARP Main Studs
- OEM Crankshaft *
- OEM VVTi Camshafts*
- OEM Timing Chain*
- Clevite Main Bearings*
- OEM Rod Bearings*
- OEM Thrust Bearings*

Engine Performance:
- GARRETT GT25/54 Ball Bearing Turbocharger
- Nickel Sport Toyota Yaris/Vios Turbo Exhaust Manifold (w/upgraded mounting hardware)
- Custom Made, full-stainless 2.5" exhaust system using VIBRANT pipes + V-BAND clamps.
- Varex variable flow stainless muffler
- CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler
- Go Fast Bits Recirculation Valve
- Injector Dynamics 725cc Fuel Injectors (E85 compatible)
- Aeromotive Stealth 340lph Fuel Pump (E85 compatible)
- Fidanza 8lb aluminum flywheel w/removable friction plate*
- Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
- OSGiken 'Superlock' LSD
- Custom 3 row aluminum radiator

Engine Management:
- Haltech Elite 1500 Standalone ECU
- Boomslang adapter harness for Haltech
- HKS EVC-6 Electronic Boost Controller
- INNOVATE MTX-L Wideband AFR sensor
- INNOVATE Coolant Temp Gauge + Sensor

Chassis:
- Custom Battery Relocation to trunk
- KW Variant 3 Coilovers
- TRD Rear swaybar
- TRD Short Shifter

Wheels/Tires/Brakes:
- Drag 15" allow wheels
- Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R tires (205/50r15)
- Cryo slotted rotors
- HAWK HPS Pads
- Custom stainless-braided brake lines

Interior:
- COBRA Motorsports racing seat
- NRG short Hub
- NRG SFI rated quick release
- OMP Suede Wheel
- Pioneer touch screen Stereo Receiver
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Old 09-03-2020, 04:56 AM   #2
stidnam
 
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wow, I'm very impressed. Certainly a no expense spared build! Would be keen to hear your thoughts on the Yaris chassis after owning such an array of cars.

I'm also very interested in the Haltech setup as I've never seen a standalone one done in a Toyota of this era, and most likely the reason so many people were scared to touch it.

I've got a few questions for you if you don't mind
- Is the VVTI fully functional and tuned for?
- Do all gauges and lights still work on your dash cluster?
- Were you able to retain the ABS and Traction control?
- Does the Haltech control your radiator fan and if so, is it also configured to turn on based on inputs from the AC computer?
- Was the boomslang harnless literally plug and play or was any modification required?

Last edited by stidnam; 09-03-2020 at 05:13 AM.
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Old 09-03-2020, 02:17 PM   #3
ern-diz
 
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Super impressive. There's a few boosted Yaris' across the forum but only one other I can think of that has gone to near the lengths you have. He's a forum member, but hasn't been active for a while. I still keep in touch with him via Instagram.

Welcome. I'm looking forward to following along.
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Old 09-03-2020, 02:26 PM   #4
CrankyOldMan
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Looks great! I haven't been following the new Solo classes but it's cool to see a new place for highly modified setups with FI.

I'm in the process of upgrading my 07 sedan from XP in Solo to STL in SCCA Club racing. My most recent upgrade was the NRG SFI-rated quick release and the super-short hub. Really easy to release the wheel with one hand, super simple to install.
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Old 09-03-2020, 04:39 PM   #5
scarsofcarma
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Posts: 9
Thanks for the compliment ��

Yes I have owned a large array of vehicles. Mostly Mazda rotaries, but also Miatas, Supras, BMW's, Honda's, VW's, Porsche, etc. This Yaris is the most modern vehicle I have owned so far.

I think the Yaris does very well for what it is. The lightness of the chassis is what I originally found attractive about it. Compared to other fwd's I've built it can hold its own. My first car was an 81 Scirocco 'S'. I also had two Corrado's (both a G60 and a VR6), two EF Civic hatchbacks, an 89 Integra, two Accord hatchbacks and an 01 Prelude.

I won't say the Yaris suspension is as good as those Honda's in terms of adjustability and setup, but simplicity has its own appeal. Macpherson struts provide direct tire grip feedback to the steering wheel. If you know how to use the wheel like a rally driver (even on tarmac) you can use that to your advantage for greater confidence pushing it to the limit.

In most regards the Yaris reminds me of a VW in the way it handles, especially with the semi rear trailing arms. The Yaris needs a rear swaybar to combat understeer and get closer towards an instant neutral turn in response (which is what Miatas do best).

I opted for the TRD rear bar but I believe there are some beefier ones available. I wouldn't mind trying a bigger one. This Yaris still is prone to understeer at the limit, but it's predictable and correctable which is the most important thing. Mine being a sedan, it may be more prone to understeer than the hatchback (I haven't driven a hatchback yet), but the sedan may likely be more stable in terms of oversteer because of the longer wheelbase. So far I have not been able to get the rear end to slide at all whatsoever.

These Potenza RE-71-R tires are really nice. I used em on my last auto-x Miata build as well in the same exact tire size. I won't say the Yaris has the same level of outright handling as the Miata did, but it feels very stable and holds a surprisingly good level of grip.

Trying to keep up with those Miatas and the new turbo Civic Type R is the real benchmark in auto-x these days. I'm not close enough yet to challenge them with this Yaris but we'll see. I am still figuring out what to do with setup and modifications.

Despite the fact it has all this work put into it, this car was down for years while it was turbo'd and it hasn't been driven much since it was turbo'd. It is still a new learning experience. With more power, a lot changes in the way it drives, what it needs and how it needs to be setup.

I have new poly bushings ready to go in the front control arms. I want to upgrade the lower engine mount somehow (can't find a poly version) and I am interested in getting some additional bracing for the chassis. (strut braces, lower tie braces, fender braces, etc.)

And that's just for backroads and auto-X. If I want to take it on the track, I would also be thinking of getting rear discs on this car somehow. Can a Prius rear end bolt on???

As for your other questions, the Haltech is running in a parellel configuration with stock ECM. What the boomslang does is allow the Haltech to splice into the stock vehicle wiring harness saving the trouble of making your own. Forgive me it has been a few years since the Haltech and Boomslang were installed, but if I remember correctly when you order the Boomslang you have some options about which features you want for Haltech control and which ones you don't. It is a special order item that is customizable. So long as you order it the way you want it, no modification should be necessary (except how you decide to mount it in the engine bay).

Presently the only thing the Haltech controls is running the engine. All other vehicle functions such as ABS, gauges, wipers, buttons, switches, etc. work as usual based on their original modules and circuits. (Traction Control was not a feature in 2008 so far as I am aware. At least not for mine in the US market)

Some engine and alternator related functions (such as AC compressor or headlights) require that the Haltech be aware of that extra load on the engine so it can raise the idle up the way the stock ECM would normally do.

You can program that into the Haltech, but you have to be clever about which inputs you use for a trigger. To be honest, my setup has not been adjusted properly for the AC or headlights so I have to be careful sitting at a stop or the engine may stall unless I keep light pressure on the throttle.

This is something I will figure out, but first I have to familiarize myself with the Haltech to be able to adjust it myself instead of paying a tuner to do everything. I will get there eventually.

The Haltech Elite is capable of running variable valve timing, so yes that is fully functional and tuned for on my Yaris. Other versions of Haltech do not have that ability. The same goes with other brands of standalones. For example my turbo Miata had no variable valve timing so Megasquirt II was enough for that application.

My aftermarket efan is trigged by the stock wiring system, but you can easily run an efan trigged by a Haltech if you wanted. It's just a matter of using a sensor input into the Haltech to trigger an output from the Haltech to switch on a relay.

My efan feels too weak for my tastes so I plan on getting a bigger one and using a separate adjustable fan controller with its own relays and dedicated power source to beef up the amperage.
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Old 09-03-2020, 06:23 PM   #6
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarsofcarma View Post
If I want to take it on the track, I would also be thinking of getting rear discs on this car somehow. Can a Prius rear end bolt on???
I just scored the rear beam from a 3rd gen SE hatch with the intentions of trying it on the 2ZR Vios. Feedback from the resident SCCA Club guy (Jason@Sportcar) is that the stock setup doesn't benefit from rear discs since most of the braking is up front anyway, and the OEM rear balance isn't set up for discs. The speed you'd carry into a corner with 200+ whp may change the need for them though. In theory I'll see if it fits over this winter and (hopefully) document it. The pads themselves are TINY, even by subcompact car standards. I haven't looked at other options for bigger calipers or rotors yet, but that's worth investigating.
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Old 09-03-2020, 08:31 PM   #7
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,143
Wow! What a build. Interesting that you're running the Haltech in unison with the factory ECU. I have spoken with Haltech and ECUMaster about their "Black" standalone. I didn't think that there was a Boomslang harness developed for the 1NZ. In my 'budget build' am running the AEM F/IC piggyback which I don't really fancy much. It came with the kit I bought and installed on my swapped 2ZR. This was before I delved into engine management systems for FI cars. I guess you could say the tune is 'safe', but I added my own home built W/M injection system for a little extra security. My car always starts, runs well, but the FIC and stock ECU are often at odds; the factory ECU trying to modify fuel trims. I tried O2 spoofing with marginal success. I would be all ears if you would offer some advice re engine management. All I want to add to my system's ability is some finer closed loop fueling control. I'm happy with everything else. Some day, I would love to build my 2ZR, but that's a little out of my current skill set.

Did you mention which transmission you have and how is it holding up? I did see that you beefed up the flywheel and clutch, so it's manual, but is it the stock c50? I have the U340E auto and it seems to be handling boost with ease, though it can downshift when you don't want it to. Haha. It seems to like full boost from about 50 km/h up. A lighter touch and it may become slightly confused.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-03-2020 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 09-03-2020, 10:23 PM   #8
scarsofcarma
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Looks great! I haven't been following the new Solo classes but it's cool to see a new place for highly modified setups with FI.

I'm in the process of upgrading my 07 sedan from XP in Solo to STL in SCCA Club racing. My most recent upgrade was the NRG SFI-rated quick release and the super-short hub. Really easy to release the wheel with one hand, super simple to install.
Yep I was pleased with the NRG SFI-rated quick release the first time I tried it... which was on my last Miata auto-x build last year before I sold it. Once the Yaris was ready for auto-x a couple months ago it was a no-brainer to get another one.

I have had some fancier, more expensive quick release hubs on other builds before this new NRG one came out. They were nice, but really, so long as its easy to remove and doesn't have play how much do you really need to spend on a quick release? lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
I just scored the rear beam from a 3rd gen SE hatch with the intentions of trying it on the 2ZR Vios. Feedback from the resident SCCA Club guy (Jason@Sportcar) is that the stock setup doesn't benefit from rear discs since most of the braking is up front anyway, and the OEM rear balance isn't set up for discs. The speed you'd carry into a corner with 200+ whp may change the need for them though. In theory I'll see if it fits over this winter and (hopefully) document it. The pads themselves are TINY, even by subcompact car standards. I haven't looked at other options for bigger calipers or rotors yet, but that's worth investigating.
That's rad thanks a lot for guinea-pigging the idea. That was gonna be one of the first things I searched for on this forum.

Yes that's correct about the brake balance. In general FWD's are much heavier on their front brakes. With a drum brake system especially, (which usually use a different proportioning valve) you would end up with weird initial rearward brake bias if you converted it to discs without changing that valve. But I have not yet researched what Toyota does specifically for these cars in terms of proportioning or brake bias valves.

In the past on track vehicles with older ABS systems I have sometimes converted to non ABS. I have also played with manual proportioning valves. My last turbo Miata had one of those because I swapped on big Wilwoods up front and larger rear rotors + calipers in the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Wow! What a build. Interesting that you're running the Haltech in unison with the factory ECU. I have spoken with Haltech and ECUMaster about their "Black" standalone. I didn't think that there was a Boomslang harness developed for the 1NZ. In my 'budget build' am running the AEM F/IC piggyback which I don't really fancy much. It came with the kit I bought and installed on my swapped 2ZR. This was before I delved into engine management systems for FI cars. I guess you could say the tune is 'safe', but I added my own home built W/M injection system for a little extra security. My car always starts, runs well, but the FIC and stock ECU are often at odds; the factory ECU trying to modify fuel trims. I tried O2 spoofing with marginal success. I would be all ears if you would offer some advice re engine management. All I want to add to my system's ability is some finer closed loop fueling control. I'm happy with everything else. Some day, I would love to build my 2ZR, but that's a little out of my current skill set.

Did you mention which transmission you have and how is it holding up? I did see that you beefed up the flywheel and clutch, so it's manual, but is it the stock c50? I have the U340E auto and it seems to be handling boost with ease, though it can downshift when you don't want it to. Haha. It seems to like full boost from about 50 km/h up. A lighter touch and it may become slightly confused.
Hi, yes I have already been reading your thread about your home built water injection system. I was planning to chat with you about that at some point.

Piggyback ECU's are always a little harder to get exactly what you want out of them. On some older RX7's I've played with, the best way to get those working was to chip the base ECU with a different MAP and then use the piggyback to help manage and fine tune that new MAP. Without that new base MAP the stock ECU may never really achieve a happy closed loop. I never really noticed much difference on an RX7 anyway with the terrible gas mileage they usually get, but my current Yaris is not so great in that department either

If anything I wanna get a little less conservative with the tune now that I know it survived the dyno tuning in the hopes of a few more mpg for highway cruising.

The thing is, certain standalones self-learn. For megasquirt they call it 'auto-tune' and that is where your good closed loop running comes from. On Haltech (at least at the time this one was purchased) they didn't have that feature built in yet but it was in the works. (Perhaps they have it now so I should look into updating my software).

At the time my Yaris was tuned the dyno tuner was literally pushing a button to permit the tune to adjust itself during steady-state tuning on the dyno. Over and over again periodically. It runs well enough, but my setup depends on the wideband sensor in a critical way. If it gets out of adjustment too far (and they all do with enough age and miles on em) the tune starts to get wonky. So that is another thing you have to live with using an aftermarket standalone.

As I learn more about this EFI standalone tuning stuff I will try and be more helpful with suggestions to help your system run better. I am still reading books about it at present, although books seems to be going out of style everything new seems to be you tube videos.

I laughed when you mentioned the transmission. I worry about it constantly. It is still the stock box yes. Just today I drained out the REDLINE MTL and swapped in a little thicker REDLINE MT-90 hoping to smooth out my 1st gear synchro issue. So far that's the only issue... and auto-x is really tough on that first gear downshift. I have to be really quick with the rev-matching and heal-and-toe.

Not all of the synchro issues was caused by my driving though, the first owner of the Yaris was kinda hard on that. I got it to go away with REDLINE fluid but now that its turbo'd it's come back with a vengeance. I may have to swap the transmission out if it gets too much worse.

Maybe a rebuild or another transmission may prevent it from happening again, but I have no way of knowing that until I try. Cryogenically treating the gears in addition to isotropic superfinishing would probably be the only way to really strengthen and improve the durability of this transmission. That gets pricy so here's hoping that's not necessary *crosses-fingers*
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Old 09-04-2020, 12:05 AM   #9
mitch9521
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Once you put beefier internals and boost, these little 1NZ-FEs can seriously punch above their weight class. Awesome build.
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Old 09-04-2020, 12:42 AM   #10
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarsofcarma View Post
Yep I was pleased with the NRG SFI-rated quick release the first time I tried it... which was on my last Miata auto-x build last year before I sold it. Once the Yaris was ready for auto-x a couple months ago it was a no-brainer to get another one.

I have had some fancier, more expensive quick release hubs on other builds before this new NRG one came out. They were nice, but really, so long as its easy to remove and doesn't have play how much do you really need to spend on a quick release? lol



That's rad thanks a lot for guinea-pigging the idea. That was gonna be one of the first things I searched for on this forum.

Yes that's correct about the brake balance. In general FWD's are much heavier on their front brakes. With a drum brake system especially, (which usually use a different proportioning valve) you would end up with weird initial rearward brake bias if you converted it to discs without changing that valve. But I have not yet researched what Toyota does specifically for these cars in terms of proportioning or brake bias valves.

In the past on track vehicles with older ABS systems I have sometimes converted to non ABS. I have also played with manual proportioning valves. My last turbo Miata had one of those because I swapped on big Wilwoods up front and larger rear rotors + calipers in the rear.



Hi, yes I have already been reading your thread about your home built water injection system. I was planning to chat with you about that at some point.

Piggyback ECU's are always a little harder to get exactly what you want out of them. On some older RX7's I've played with, the best way to get those working was to chip the base ECU with a different MAP and then use the piggyback to help manage and fine tune that new MAP. Without that new base MAP the stock ECU may never really achieve a happy closed loop. I never really noticed much difference on an RX7 anyway with the terrible gas mileage they usually get, but my current Yaris is not so great in that department either

If anything I wanna get a little less conservative with the tune now that I know it survived the dyno tuning in the hopes of a few more mpg for highway cruising.

The thing is, certain standalones self-learn. For megasquirt they call it 'auto-tune' and that is where your good closed loop running comes from. On Haltech (at least at the time this one was purchased) they didn't have that feature built in yet but it was in the works. (Perhaps they have it now so I should look into updating my software).

At the time my Yaris was tuned the dyno tuner was literally pushing a button to permit the tune to adjust itself during steady-state tuning on the dyno. Over and over again periodically. It runs well enough, but my setup depends on the wideband sensor in a critical way. If it gets out of adjustment too far (and they all do with enough age and miles on em) the tune starts to get wonky. So that is another thing you have to live with using an aftermarket standalone.

As I learn more about this EFI standalone tuning stuff I will try and be more helpful with suggestions to help your system run better. I am still reading books about it at present, although books seems to be going out of style everything new seems to be you tube videos.

I laughed when you mentioned the transmission. I worry about it constantly. It is still the stock box yes. Just today I drained out the REDLINE MTL and swapped in a little thicker REDLINE MT-90 hoping to smooth out my 1st gear synchro issue. So far that's the only issue... and auto-x is really tough on that first gear downshift. I have to be really quick with the rev-matching and heal-and-toe.

Not all of the synchro issues was caused by my driving though, the first owner of the Yaris was kinda hard on that. I got it to go away with REDLINE fluid but now that its turbo'd it's come back with a vengeance. I may have to swap the transmission out if it gets too much worse.

Maybe a rebuild or another transmission may prevent it from happening again, but I have no way of knowing that until I try. Cryogenically treating the gears in addition to isotropic superfinishing would probably be the only way to really strengthen and improve the durability of this transmission. That gets pricy so here's hoping that's not necessary *crosses-fingers*
Thanks much for the detailed reply. You have me intrigued regarding the MegaSquirt "auto tuning" feature. I wonder if it would be a good alternative to the F/IC. That way, I could leave all the other peripherals to the stock ecu. Do you think the MS would grab ahold and take command of the fueling, or would I still need a chipped stock ecu such that the stock ecu would refrain from attempting to alter the trims?

I had been speaking with an outfit that would explore my ecu in terms of what could be changed. Clearly they could not tell me much until they got into it. I believe it was a couple hundred bucks to investigate and I'd have to send my ecu. I figured I'd just buy another one and have it shipped directly to them. Maybe I ought to pursue that avenue.

As I have work early, I will respond to your other comments tomorrow. All, very interesting.

May I say that it's a wonderful thing to have you join us here on yarisworld. Welcome, welcome, welcome!
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/
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Old 09-04-2020, 09:22 PM   #11
scarsofcarma
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Posts: 9
So it has been a productive week on the Yaris, getting it ready for the auto-x competition tomorrow at Barber Motorsports Park. I put in close to nine hours on it.

Haltech has been rewired into the passenger compartment (behind the glovebox) to prevent it from overheating again and going into limp mode. (Which it did three times at the first event) This is a great spot for it because it will also allow me to easily plug in a USB cord and access the Haltech via laptop from the passenger seat.



Hood risers have been installed to help keep the engine bay temps down. This is the first time I have tried using these so I am curious how well they will work.



New control arms with polyurethane bushings installed. (I noticed the ball joints on the original control arms were starting to tear, and since they are not removable new control arms were the only option)



And just because this is how it goes when you are rushing to prep a car for an event... I found a screw in my left rear tire which was causing a leak. But no big deal... I used an external patch and had it fixed in ten minutes.



I also re-calibrated the wideband and redid some wiring and grounds in the engine bay.

Last edited by scarsofcarma; 09-04-2020 at 09:24 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 09-06-2020, 07:28 AM   #12
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Nice! That's the location I used for my F/IC. I drilled a little hole in my glovebox and threaded the USB cable through. Sure, it would have been easier to put it in the engine bay from a wiring perspective, but I didn't trust it under there in the 'elements'.

Sucks about the nail. Do you replace the whole tire, or patch it from the inside?
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Old 09-06-2020, 12:10 PM   #13
scarsofcarma
 
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Loss of accelerator pedal response

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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Nice! That's the location I used for my F/IC. I drilled a little hole in my glovebox and threaded the USB cable through. Sure, it would have been easier to put it in the engine bay from a wiring perspective, but I didn't trust it under there in the 'elements'.

Sucks about the nail. Do you replace the whole tire, or patch it from the inside?
I didn't have time to dismount the tire and patch it from the inside. I just used a plug.

Well the auto-x yesterday didn't go as planned. 😕 In the middle of my second run I lost all throttle response on the pedal. (Same as what happened at the first event) When this happens the engine still runs, but you have to stop and turn the ignition off-and-on again before the pedal response comes back.

Because I moved the ECU I no longer think this is an ECU related issue at all. It must be an issue in the drive-by-wire system, not the programming. Probably a faulty pedal assembly or throttle body actuator?

Anyway I had the car stopped and going again in just 20 seconds or whatever, but each time somebody stops on course they have to throw the red flag 🚩 just in case I can't get the car started again. I didn't want to keep blocking others or delaying the event if this was gonna be a recurring issue so I parked the Yaris for the rest of the event and just did my corner-working duties.

But the good news is the Yaris was already putting down a faster lap then the Mini Cooper 'S' or the Fiesta ST that were in the same 'extreme street' category. By the end of the day I can usually improve my first lap pace by about 4 seconds. It would be interesting to see what pace it would ultimately have done. 🏁

The new control arms work great. Very stiff. I can even feel a difference on the highway by the way the bumps are fed into the suspension. I might have to adjust the coilovers a bit to smooth them out again.

The hood risers work great also. I noticed lower temps on the highway and in the paddock by about 20 degrees F. Most importantly, the Redline MT90 really helped the first gear synchro issue. There was no longer much drama downshifting into first gear. I am happy about that 😊

On the way back from the track, there was also a few moments of a 'throttle flare' where the revs would randomly kick up a couple thousand rpms in a parking lot just creeping along. This also indicates a drive-by-wire issue.

I am downloading the Haltech software into my roommates laptop. I intend to observe live data for the throttle pedal and throttle body actuator to see if I can catch a glitch in the voltage sweeps.

Does anyone else know of any typical drive-by-wire issues with these vehicles?
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Old 09-13-2020, 01:44 PM   #14
scarsofcarma
 
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HALTECH Connected

So I got the Haltech communicating with the laptop. The trick was buying a USB cable direct from Haltech. Don't ask me why that mattered, but apparently it does.

The Haltech ESP interface looks something like this...



Obviously there's a lot going on with this. There is as much access to every control, input or output to run this standalone that I could ever hope for. It will take a while to fully understand its capabilities. The first thing I checked was DTC codes. The Haltech does store them like a regular OEM ECU. I had nothing 'Current' for drive by wire but I did have some listed as 'Past'.

So I brought up the live data for the pedal and watched the sweep. Haltech makes it very convenient how to observe the live data. There are several options. You can do Gauges (Like I did here) or bar graphs, data-plots, whatever suites your fancy. As an additional option, you can also select different units of measurement. (Fahrenheit instead of Celcius, etc.)



Here is the LAMBDA MAP (The little blue circle tells you where the engine is at while its idling)



Here is the IGNITION MAP



Here is the FUEL LOAD MAP



Here is the INTAKE CAM CONTROL MAP




The Haltech also allows you to do DATA LOGGING while the laptop is disconnected. So you can go drive it, do some laps on the track or whatever, and hook it back up to observe what it recorded later which is very convenient. It can also 'back up' and observe the past data before a DTC code is set, after it is set, so you can figure out what the running conditions were prior to setting a DTC. (As many expensive aftermarket scan tools can also do with an OEM ECU)

What I intend to do next is go do some test drives with my roommate in the passenger seat watching the live data while I drive. If there is an issue we can see in the data with the drive by wire, we should be able to record it as a snapshot. (This is basically the same stuff I do as a dealership technician with a factory scan tool.)

Yesterday I took a 9 hour road trip in the Yaris to go visit Road Atlanta Motorsports Park in Georgia. There were a few occasions during that drive that I could feel something funky going on with the DBW, but thankfully nothing that locked up the pedal completely or forced me to pull over and do a shutdown-restart. The real question at this point is which component specifically is malfunctioning. The pedal or the throttle body?
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:38 PM   #15
CrankyOldMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarsofcarma View Post
So I got the Haltech communicating with the laptop. The trick was buying a USB cable direct from Haltech. Don't ask me why that mattered, but apparently it does.
I would guess that they've done something silly with their communication protocol and have to use a specific chip to interface with the ECU. I had the opposite situation with my UHF handheld radio where I bought a USB interface cable that had an off-brand RS232 chip and required disassembling it to find the make/model number so that I could download drivers for it from their (entirely in Mandarin) website. I've also had issues at work where someone who didn't understand how a communication protocol worked developed their own unique interpretation that will only work with their homebrewed software and doesn't work with most hardware.

Could be deliberate to keep counterfeits from messing things up, could be someone didn't know what they were doing when they cooked it up in the R&D department.

I'm afraid I don't have any feedback on the DBW issues, despite having read the report on the "unintended acceleration" issues that came up about a decade ago.
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Old 09-14-2020, 01:45 PM   #16
scarsofcarma
 
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So I went for a test drive. The Haltech has a special 'diagnostic screen' that lets you observe all the data you want at the same time.

We didn't have any issues pop up with the DBW but I did notice the battery voltage started to get real low. I was only reading about 12V out of the battery and 12.6 out of the alternator.

I replaced the alternator recently with another OEM and I just replaced the battery again today. I'll have to keep an eye on that in case there are draws somewhere. I'm also curious if there are any ways to upgrade the alternator?

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Old 09-15-2020, 11:58 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by scarsofcarma View Post


So I went for a test drive. The Haltech has a special 'diagnostic screen' that lets you observe all the data you want at the same time.

We didn't have any issues pop up with the DBW but I did notice the battery voltage started to get real low. I was only reading about 12V out of the battery and 12.6 out of the alternator.

I replaced the alternator recently with another OEM and I just replaced the battery again today. I'll have to keep an eye on that in case there are draws somewhere. I'm also curious if there are any ways to upgrade the alternator?

Here in my area of SoCal, there's a local alternator shop that, in addition to providing replacement/rebuilt alternators, will upgrade an OEM alternator to provide more juice. They position it as a good option for people with aftermarket audio systems with power drawing amplifiers, or other added power needs. If I remember correctly, they wanted something like $280 to beef my Yaris alternator up. I don't remember how much of an added power boost it would provide, but could find out with a phone call.
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Here in my area of SoCal, there's a local alternator shop that, in addition to providing replacement/rebuilt alternators, will upgrade an OEM alternator to provide more juice. They position it as a good option for people with aftermarket audio systems with power drawing amplifiers, or other added power needs. If I remember correctly, they wanted something like $280 to beef my Yaris alternator up. I don't remember how much of an added power boost it would provide, but could find out with a phone call.
Yeah that would be nice to know if you could find out.

Thanks!
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