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Old 02-21-2017, 05:44 PM   #19
tarkus
 
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Drives: 2006 Yaris RS 3-Door
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: YYZ
Posts: 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
This blows me away, after seeing my 9 year old car driven in similar conditions and how little rust it has,
Yes, the same for my rust-free 11 year old Yaris.

My previous 10 year old Echo only had one minor rust spot just above a rear wheel, that appeared to be from a poorly done previous body repair. I got it redone properly for $400. Basically, these cars are known for not rusting, as with most Toyotas.

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:50 PM   #20
shepd
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris 5 door RS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kitchener, ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Details please.
Parts are from RockAuto:

Catalytic Converter (48 State): EASTERN CATALYTIC 40845 ECO III
Includes downpipe gasket and muffler gasket. Includes hardware (spring/bolt/nuts) for the downpipe. Includes clamp for catback pipe. I am also throwing in an extra spring/bolt/nut kit for the muffler section. Fits 07 - 11 Yaris Hatchback.

I also have a Walker Muffler (can't remember the number, but it's the one that does NOT look like OEM but fits just fine--actually bought that from HotSpot) + bolts/spring/nut kit + muffler gasket + downpipe gasket to sell.

I figure $300 for the catalytic converter and associated parts, and $50 for the muffler and associated parts. Brand new in box. If you are interested, make an offer. :)

I drive from Kitchener to Pearson Airport every day for work so if you're on the 401 in that area I can arrange to drop it off. Or if you're nearby Kitchener or Pearson Airport, maybe I can deliver it.
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:11 PM   #21
WeeYari
 
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Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepd View Post
I also have a Walker Muffler (can't remember the number, but it's the one that does NOT look like OEM but fits just fine--actually bought that from HotSpot) + bolts/spring/nut kit + muffler gasket + downpipe gasket to sell.
Possibly interested. When I switch over to my Medalion in the spring I'll be able to inspect my stock pumpkin again. When it went on last fall, I figured one of the hangers wasn't going to last much longer.

I'm 2km from the 401/Winston Churchill exchange.
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:19 PM   #22
shepd
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris 5 door RS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kitchener, ON
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Possibly interested. When I switch over to my Medalion in the spring I'll be able to inspect my stock pumpkin again. When it went on last fall, I figured one of the hangers wasn't going to last much longer.

I'm 2km from the 401/Winston Churchill exchange.
No problem. PM me once you've checked and you are certain you want it and we can arrange for me to drop it off. :) Would be around 6:00 - 7:00 pm depending on traffic.
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Old 08-27-2020, 08:44 PM   #23
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
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Reviving an old thread

I am doing this because it is my belief that this common issue on Yaris hatchbacks does not necessarily have to mean a death sentence for the car. Lately, I have seen more and more failed inspection Yaris Hatchbacks coming up for sale. Most are 06 and 07 models, but we know that this 'design flaw' (more on that in a minute) runs through to 2011. The term 'design flaw' was not my term, but that of a friend who has years and years of experience with many different Toyota models, including the Yaris. He too believes that with the right repairs, that these Yari can live on, and on and on. I expect that Yari in more forgiving climates (those in which road salt or other de-icers are not used) may not suffer this issue - at least for a much longer time.

The red 2007 Yaris that I just bought has the same corrosion and decay just inboard of the rear axle bushing mount. I have discovered the following:

- the pocket (large cavity) into which the bushing mount is molded fills with sand, dirt, other debris, and, of course water. This soggy mess quickly corrodes the thin metal, resulting in a hole in the lowest section, where moisture will pool. This mess builds up and makes its way out toward the dogleg and lower aft rocker panel areas.

- If caught early enough (as in my 2006 RS), oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removeable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody - the areas that are prone to rot.

- Although it initially appears that the rear axle is about to break free from the body, I don't believe this is the case. To illustrate, here is a pic of the driver's side of my red 07 RS as well as the original pic posted by OP shepd.





I believe that these gaping holes can be closed up by welding metal. Before I bought the red RS, I jacked the car up on jackstands and I did my best to break the axle bushing loose from the body with a large crowbar. Despite all the rot the axle mounts were extremely strong. I could not budge them no matter how much force I put on the bar.

Here is what I am going to attempt:

Weld a plate on the outboard side of the metal to which the axle bushing is attached:



Weld strips to cover the hole:



I would then consider covering the metal repair with thick fiberglass mat. Then apply bedliner over top.

I thought about attempting to remove the axle bushing bolt and dropping the axle before the repair, but I expect that the bolt is severely rusted and might break. I will, however, apply copious penetrating oil over a few days and see if I can get the bolt moving. I think dropping the axle would offer the best chance of a lasting repair. But, reinforcing everything before attempting to remove the bolt might be the better option, especially since the bolt will be drenched in oil after the repair is done (see below re: rustproofing)

At the lowest point - where water might pool - I plan to drill a 1/2 hole and plug it with a 1/2 rustproofing plug. The entire cavity will then be drenched in oil, ATF or something like Fluid Film. Drenching this cavity will continue to be part of my annual rustproofing regimen.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-27-2020 at 09:16 PM.
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