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Old 04-20-2009, 08:11 PM   #1
CTScott
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Here's a comparison of SodiumDuck's 08 (left) and my 09 (right) (from when we installed our remote starters). Mine has the blue and brown, and his just has the black horn wire.



On the EWD, the spiral cable is just the block between 3B and 1A, as well as the block between 1C and 8A on the horn diagram on page 145. The spiral cable simply brings the signals off of the movable steering wheel. (If we had the European steering wheel controls, they would most likely connect through the last unused pin).
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:39 PM   #2
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i'm beginning to get lost in all the technical talk. i should probably take a look at mine up in there.. unless someone can tell me if i have what it takes to do this by telling them that i have an '07 lb hatch?
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:16 PM   #3
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I was thinking that I was having deja-vu on this topic and found this topic from a while back:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=cruise&page=3

Out of curiosity, have you checked to see if your combination meter has the two cruise lights.
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Old 04-21-2009, 12:09 AM   #4
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No cruise light on my dash panel. It has a fog light icon, though (no actual fog lights in the car).

Canadian 2008 5-door hatch.
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Old 04-21-2009, 12:25 AM   #5
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ah so since the cruise connects to the inside of the oem steerig wheel looks like i cant add it since i have an aftermarket wheel :(
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:54 PM   #6
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ah so since the cruise connects to the inside of the oem steerig wheel looks like i cant add it since i have an aftermarket wheel :(
You could install one of the aftermarket Rostra brand units, which doesn't attach to the steering wheel. Be prepared to pay lots, though.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:26 PM   #7
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You could install one of the aftermarket Rostra brand units, which doesn't attach to the steering wheel. Be prepared to pay lots, though.

Or you could add four momentary switches (On/Off, Set, Up, Down) to the dash like I am going to do to save on buying the stalk and on having to pull the airbag.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:43 PM   #8
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Or you could add four momentary switches (On/Off, Set, Up, Down) to the dash like I am going to do to save on buying the stalk and on having to pull the airbag.
Good luck with that - those functions on the stock switch work through resistors and involve the extremely expensive central engine computer (ECM). The resistors are the squiggly lines in the diagram. It's important to know the exact values to make it work right. A familiarity with Ohm's Law would help, too.

Last edited by Sir A.Y. Atoyot; 07-27-2010 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Good luck with that - those functions on the stock switch work through resistors and involve the extremely expensive central engine computer (ECM). The resistors are the squiggly lines in the diagram. It's important to know the exact values to make it work right.
Correct. The resistor values are:
216 to 264 ohms for one between resume and on/off
351 to 426 ohms for the one between set and resume
819 to 1001 ohms for the one between set and cancel

This is a standard way of having multiple inputs on a single wire.
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:10 PM   #10
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you realize CTScott is an electrical engineer right and Im a electrical engineering tech


BTW CTScott i was thinking the same thing about the switches except Im thinking of mounting them in my door armrest right above the handle, i will most likely canibalize the stalk and use jumper wires and a LED to show the status
I am soldering up a two button test rig right now. I have a Karate class at 8, so I am hoping to test on/off and Set on my way there...
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:29 PM   #11
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OK. My two button rig is connected. When I turn the ignition on and press my on/off switch the speedometer icon lights up. Now to throw on my dobuk and hit the road for the road test...
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Old 04-21-2009, 10:15 PM   #12
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so you connected it straight to D3?
Worked like a charm!

I used tap splices onto pins 1 (blue) and 3 (brown) of D3.



My test setup consisted of 2 feet of 2 conductor cable going to two parallel switches. The first is the On/Off switch which connects directly to the two wires. The second is the Set switch and has a 660 ohm resistor on the CCS line from the first to it.



Here's the combination meter in the garage with the ignition on and the on/off button pressed once:


Here's the meter with the Set button pressed at 35 MPH (and my foot off the gas):



The Set button doubles as the - button, so each press would drop the speed by one MPH. When I pressed the On/Off button while CC was on, it would drop the lights and decelerate until I put my foot on the gas. So, at this point I have free cruise control (from parts lying around my office).

Now I just have to find some switches that I like to button it up...
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:19 PM   #13
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great news, although i suspect that you have factory installed wire going to AD4 junction box.

my turn but only after my exams lol. which switched you plan on running.
Have you checked to see if there is a wire leaving pin 15 of connector AD4? If there is, then tapping there wouldn't be any worse than tapping D3. Also, you only need that one wire, as the other just needs to connect to any ground point.

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Old 04-21-2009, 11:35 PM   #14
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if you look on page 105 of the EWD it says pin 6 for the AD4 box from D3.
That's correct. I was looking at the wrong blue when I typed that. When Alex checks his D3 connector (where I am 90% sure he'll just see the lonely horn wire), he should then check Pin 6 of AD4 to see if there is a wire there.
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:50 PM   #15
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the only PITA is that the AD4 box is under the dash near the windshield. But why would he only have the Horn wire, whats different from your Yaris?
did you get an extra option or what? The other thing is on mine i don't have the Cruise Icon, so i would need to McGyver a way to get a LED to light up when I turn on the cruise
I think that only 09 Liftbacks have the two additional wires in D3, as Sir A.Y. Atoyot's 08 didn't and neither did SodiumDuck's 08.
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Old 04-21-2009, 08:57 PM   #16
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PK: if you are going to make yourself a new set of switches... don't cannibalize your stalk... sell it to me :)
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Old 04-21-2009, 10:26 PM   #17
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thats awesome, you should make a step by step how-to with a link to the resistors to use, I would actually prefer this way
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Old 04-21-2009, 10:57 PM   #18
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Very tidy - congrats to CTScott on getting the first practical results out of this discussion.

I'm not an electrical engineer - just a licensed mechanic. I have an aversion to hacking into the wiring on a near-new car that's still on warranty, but I can see my way clear now to acquiring the necessary bits to do it right.
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