Blitz S/C being installed this Saturday!

[Doc Zaius]

LtNoogie... glad you got the alternator on the right hole. The one you had it in before (and the one just next to it) get attached to the blower itself.

For your a/c line issue, do what I suggested in my last post... mine was the same way. And yeah, do it now before you get the blower completely mounted and there's no room. Something to do on your day off.

And that sensor post thing on the left side of the engine block (where it was hitting the manifold)... I totally don't remember that thing on my setup. Is that new for 2008?

And finally electrical... I was most concerned about that too... procrastinated on it the most. But honestly, once you get the ECU off the firewall, some of the wiring loom cut away to expose the wires, and the little covers off the wiring harness sockets (so you can see which wire goes into which pin), it goes pretty quickly... doing the first crimp is scary... after that, it's quick. Just make sure you don't get your wires all tangled up like I did, and make sure the new connectors you buy are decent and support 18-20ga wire (the ones coming from the activation switch are pretty damn small!)

That's it for now. Keep those pics and posts coming!

[LtNoogie]

Doc, thanks for the tips.

How's the car driving? We haven't heard much about it other than you said it goes "wahhh".

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by Doc Zaius

And finally electrical... I was most concerned about that too... procrastinated on it the most. But honestly, once you get the ECU off the firewall, some of the wiring loom cut away to expose the wires, and the little covers off the wiring harness sockets (so you can see which wire goes into which pin), it goes pretty quickly... doing the first crimp is scary... after that, it's quick. Just make sure you don't get your wires all tangled up like I did, and make sure the new connectors you buy are decent and support 18-20ga wire (the ones coming from the activation switch are pretty damn small!)

Wow, now you've made it sound real scary. I'm going back to stock.

[Doc Zaius]

Don't be scared! Just take your time and double-check things. And yeah, a 2nd pair of hands is almost required for most of this install!

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

How's the car driving? We haven't heard much about it other than you said it goes "wahhh".

Well, the car is driving great. I keep the switch (which I still haven't installed yet) set to "high". That way, the power comes on nice and smooth. For a while it was set to "medium", and you'd get that huge jerk of power when it switched on. Not smooth. I'm thinking I might leave it turned off for the winter... don't really need boosted performance in the snow. Plus, I could run regular gas too.

But yeah, the only big issue that I'm a concerned about right now is that with the cold weather, the car is getting really hard to start. I mean, I used to just twist the key, start would crank maybe twice, and it would go. In the winter, it was sometimes 3-4 times. Now (we're still only in November!) and the car cranks for about 3 seconds before it catches!! I'm wondering if I'm losing fuel pressure somewhere and the fuel rail has to re-pressurize? Or if it's the fact that there's extra stuff on the accessory belt (although, it should be free-spinning when I'm starting).

Anybody else with the Blitz having engine starting problems now that it's getting colder? I'm really concerned that the car is not going to start at all once it's actually COLD.

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by Doc Zaius

and you'd get that huge jerk of power when it switched on.

I cannot wait to feel that!

Originally Posted by camelll

My car has always been slow to start during winter. I have not had any trouble starting it yet this year, but the low temps have only been down in the 30's.

Cold, as defined here in Southern California, is around 45. Any colder than that, I switch to the Jeep and I put it in 4-wheel drive mode.

[SIPNGAS]

Spoiled California people!

It was 20 when I went to work this morning...

[LtNoogie]

Not spoiled. Delicate.

[staypuft]

Originally Posted by Doc Zaius

Don't be scared! Just take your time and double-check things. And yeah, a 2nd pair of hands is almost required for most of this install!




Well, the car is driving great. I keep the switch (which I still haven't installed yet) set to "high". That way, the power comes on nice and smooth. For a while it was set to "medium", and you'd get that huge jerk of power when it switched on. Not smooth. I'm thinking I might leave it turned off for the winter... don't really need boosted performance in the snow. Plus, I could run regular gas too.

But yeah, the only big issue that I'm a concerned about right now is that with the cold weather, the car is getting really hard to start. I mean, I used to just twist the key, start would crank maybe twice, and it would go. In the winter, it was sometimes 3-4 times. Now (we're still only in November!) and the car cranks for about 3 seconds before it catches!! I'm wondering if I'm losing fuel pressure somewhere and the fuel rail has to re-pressurize? Or if it's the fact that there's extra stuff on the accessory belt (although, it should be free-spinning when I'm starting).

Anybody else with the Blitz having engine starting problems now that it's getting colder? I'm really concerned that the car is not going to start at all once it's actually COLD.

i leave mine on medium, and it is possible to get it smooth, it all depends on how you put pressure on the pedal, i had no problems starting her up in the cold so far, but its only been in the 30's, i installed the new perrin catch can and it doesnt get hot whatsoever as the greddy can does. and runs smoother imo with it installed, maybe camelll can chime in on this. i guess it doesnt help that we
have to change to colder plugs either

[LtNoogie]

Tonight started out Ok but spiraled downhill until it became a disaster. Pictures will posted shortly.

[PETERPOOP]

are you lying

[LtNoogie]

The manifold/blower slips onto the three studs, thanks to Camell for the tip. The two outside Torx tip bolts are replaced with the hex head bolts.





The fuel rail gets wiggled loose until the injectors can be popped out to make room to install and tighten the top manifold nuts. Gasoline drips onto the valve cover and we breathe fumes for the next half hour.

The injectors are lying willy-nilly.







DO NOT TIGHTEN THE MANIFOLD NUTS AND BOLTS YET!

There are two bolts that need to attach the pulley side of the blower to the alternator bracket. I did not take a picture so here is one from the installation manual.



Since I had already tightened the five manifold nuts and bolts (f**k-up #1), there was no way for the other bolts to line up. BTW, we could not find those two bolts in the packages. Luckily, last night I bought a box of metric hardware at Pep Boys for $9.99. That came in very handy.

We install two bolts from the opposite side as the instructions said to kinda work their way and line up the holes.



I start cranking away at one of the bolts, not paying attention. (f**k-up #2). Instead of causing the alternator bracket to line up, the bolt pushes the top of the alternator bracket to towards the fender. I've bent the damn thing and the alternator is now crooked!

I don't have a picture of the messed up situation. We carefully send the second bolt through the second hole and miraculously, it makes it through both holes. I attach a nut and start tightening which pulles the alternator bracket back in line. The Moron dodges a bullet.

The picture shows the alternator bracket firmly attached to blower and there is no gap. Earlier, there was a 1/4 inch gap which was all alternator bracket being bent towards the fender.



Ok, back when I attached the blower to the intake manifold, I did not pay attention to the hint below so now I have no place to attach my dipstick tube bracket. My brother will fab something for the dipstick tube to attach to so that it doesn't pop out and fall off. (f**k-up #3 but done earlier)





The compressor inlet pipe goes on and it nows looks like a supercharger! Time to attach the vacuum lines to the inlet pipe.



I think others have mentioned it but one of the original vacuum lines is too short to go to its inlet pipe nipple. First picture show the vacuum line before the teardown. Second picture shows where it needs to go.





So close to attaching the throttle body and the CAI! Now I have to go to Pep Boys tomorrow to buy some vacuum line.

Since we can't close her up, we start to route the belt through the maze of pulleys. It's now really tight in that area and it takes two of use to snake through its path.

DISASTER! The metal A/C lines that we were afraid of before get in the way of the belt! I think Doc had problems with his A/C lines too.



The only thing we can figure out is to try to reach into the impossibly tight spaces to remove a screw holding a bracket that holds the A/C line. We might be able to yank the lines out of the way and tie them down somehow with nylon straps.

While backing out one of the screws, I realize that the screw is very long and now I can't get my ratcheting box end wrench off the head because I am too close to the NST water pump pulley. It's one of those ratchets that you have to turn around to tighten, so any movement I make keeps backing out the screw. I now have a freaking tool stuck down there. I did not know whether to laugh or to cry.



My brother will try to buy some big ass needle nose pliers tomorrow to try to turn the srew back in until the wrench can come free. If that doesn't work, he may have to run a hacksaw blade down there and hope to cut the screw. Did I mention it is really tight down there?

We have no idea what to do next because you cannot get your hand in there. Tomorrow's another day.

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by camelll

That is what I thought........... Until that damn second B spacer. It is alot easier the second time as you know what to expect and have all the tools.

I cannot imagine what it was like taking it apart and putting it together a second time just for that Spacer B but I know that there was no other way for you. You should advertise yourself as a qualified Blitz installer in the Midwest.

The mechanics around here wanted $950 to do the install. That almost sounds cheap by now.

[LtNoogie]

kurokoma-kun and whooppee777, are you guys taking notes?

Your turns are coming up next and I don't want to have come out there to get you out of trouble. Especially if you repeat the same f**k-up I did.

[LtNoogie]

1,369 views so far! I am grateful that there is so much interest.

It must be like watching a train wreck in slow motion. LOL

[LtNoogie]

It's funny how you and I can laugh about stuff like the non-existent fuel pump relay now that it's past us. That was the first day and the first step of the install and I'm saying to myself WTF!

I think all the views are from the same 10 people. 5 of them going ... "I'm not doing a supercharger". The other 5 like yourself going "oh yeah, I forgot about that nighmarish step. Good times."

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by camelll

No problem. How did that center nut tighten up? That thing gave me a massive headache until I went out and bought a ratcheting swivel box end wrench.

I used an open-end wrench. The head of the ratching box end was too big. The nut tightened up as easily as the other two on top.

Originally Posted by camelll

I did not put those bolts in, I did the same thing and when I got done I realized that I missed that step. I tried but the holes did not line up. I figured that the alternator bracket and the compressor are both attached to the engine block and move together anyways and there is no gap in mine either. I might buy some smaller bolts someday and do what you did, but I am not having any problems after I put that second B spacer in.

I am guessing that those bolts keep the top of the alternator bracket from vibrating from side to side. Bolting it to the rigidly mounted blower makes sure that you don't get that movement. Anyhow, I have one bolt in there now. The second hole is stripped and we could not start a tap through it.

Originally Posted by camelll

That sucks, I did not have as much trouble with my ac lines, I just pushed mine out of the way and that was that, maybe the sedan has a little more room in the engine compartment.

A/C lines are gonna kill me in the end.

[PETERPOOP]

stay strong

[cali yaris]

well, it may read like mostly bad news to some, and mostly good news to others, because you got it done and you're closer to finishing.

So far, you've resolved every problem you encountered, so I have faith in the big finish!

I'm taking you out for a nice sushi dinner when you're done -- you can drive, or course.