SQcomps install

[talnlnky]

I met up with SQcomp today (was in portland testing for a job)... Deck trime piece looks nice. He had just put some Rage gold (high quality bondo/filler) and was waiting for it to harden so he could sand it.

Fun guy to meet in person.


Derick, there is afaik, only one good way to get multiple speakers(of different kinds) to play on a single channel... and that is by using a passive crossover (which are made up of coils & caps, and sometimes resistors). You define a point, say 3000hz, and you design a passive x-over to split the signal into two signals, a high, and a low, with the cutoffs being at 3000hz. now you can run that signal to your tweet (3000 and up), and the other to your mid (3000 and down).

you could technically run both drivers off the same amp without a crossover, but then you'd run into a few problems. Lets use an example of a 100x2rms amp for mids & highs. Your tweet is 4 ohm, and so is your mid, without a crossover your amp would see a 2ohm load instead of a 4ohm load... (makes the amp work harder. Also, your tweet would receive the same frequencies, and the same amount of power as your mid... Tweeter go TWEET TWEET TWIZZEEET.... _______________ (nothing). You'd also probably get some weird cancellation issues (mainly in the upper mid to high frequencies) which could wreak havoc on your frequency response.


I can't remember off the top of my head how john is going to set up his drivers & channels... tho, I thought he said he was doing fully active... meaning he won't need to use passives at all.


For my install, I've got a custom 3-way component + 2 amps... I have an active crossover that will split the signal between the mids+highs & the Midbass (cutoff around 200hz). The tweet & mid will have a crossover, tho... since my mid is a full range, I may or may not use a low pass on the mid... the tweet will have a highpass, and that will probably be set around 5-10khz... but it really depends on if I put a lowpass on my 4's or not.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Derick:

Okay...my situation is fairly unique. I have massive control. The P-01 has four pre-outs, high, midrange, midbass, and subwoofer. Yes, I have three amps, a mono (subs), a two channel (midbass), and a four channel (midrange and high). The four channel has two inputs that I'll use to plug in the signal from the two pre outs for the highs and midrange. All I'm doing is using the 4 way electronic crossover that the P-01 gives me.

in your case you may look at capping your tweeter and going "quasi-active" with the amp's onboard crossover.

Oh yeah...

Sqcomp:

That is not FAIR your Head Unit it's so powerful! I'm jealous



so what does "quasi-active" means? to use the HPF on the amp?




Then I have 2 possible options, go for DEQ-9200 and have Tweeters / Mids / Sub.




or

buying something like yours and spend twice as much or more...

[goku87]

Ahh, you have no idea how hard I just laughed at that first sentence lol.

I reeeeeeeeeeeeeally want to see this enclosure, because it's obviously going to be wicked awesome.

Just curious, where is the proposed plexi going to fit into all of this?

[goku87]

Oh yeah, don't think I ever told you, but welcome home.

[talnlnky]

You know there are products that do the same stuff that his deck does... maybe even better... and they are stand alone items. Audiocontrol has a gob of equipment from signal processing, Digital eq's & crossovers with memory presets so you can have different EQ settings and such. It might be a better & cheaper solution to get a bare bones deck & a stand alone signal processor than to buy a deck with all the bells and whistles built in.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/Mobile-Audio.html

The digital stuff is very spendy tho... but if you start looking around car forums, or ebay you might find a good buy on used gear.

[DailyDriver]

+1

[derickveliz2]

Wow... I wish I had the time and expertise to do something like this... keep it up! and don't forget to take lots of pictures.

[goku87]

Unless it's an ML3800 I'm not going to be impressed. :P

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_ml3800.pdf

If you got that, I would seriously buy a plane ticket to fly down just to hear it lol.

[sqcomp]

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[goku87]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Uh-oh...i think goku called my subwoofer. Dammit! So much for secrets.

Lol well what gave it away really was the amp. Since you needed 900W @ 4 ohms (and I think you mentioned Hertz earlier too) it pretty much limited to one sub lol. Shoud be an awesome sounding sub though. :)

[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[Alien Mantis]

FOCAL Utopia is so unbelievably expensive.

For the price of one Utopia Be set... I could build an entire car audio system that would be so awesome, you could hear it in the next STATE.

FOCAL sucks. It sucks because it is overpriced boutique snob crap.



Just my opinion. I know some people think they gotta spend a million dollars to be happy. More power to ya.

DISCLAIMER:
I am not referring to competition systems

[talnlnky]

Sqcomp know more than anybody else on here how much I disdain the idea of buying expensive subs... I once bought a 12" sub for $750 after tax... Saved over $100 on the purchase too. what a waste, sub was a quality built sub, but I later bought a sub for $370 that was better in both sq & spl... go figure... it probably wasn't as bullet proof tho as the spendy sub... and tho it was very impressive looking, it wasn't as shiney or cool looking at the spendy sub.

with that said, i'd pay $800 for a sub again some day... but it better meet or exceed one of the following...
1) 40+ mm one way linear movement & 15 - 18" in size
2) 32+ mm one way linear movement & 21-24" in size
3) 32+ mm one way yadda yadda & have an Fs of 12hz and play flat down to 10hz when installed in a 12-15cuft ported box.

basically, any of the three options would make for an amazing home theater sub... and someday, I plan on having a basement, and having dual 18" or 21" subs that fit one or two of the above criteria... if not all 3. Car audio tho.... ehhh... cars are a horrible environment for stereos, and spending soo much on a sub is silly, especially when considering the reason for such high price tags is usually for two reasons, 1) brand name 2) proprietary parts that usually aren't any better than what can be made using generic parts (but cost a hell of a lot more to produce).

I could show you a sub that would sound as good if not better than that focal for 1/4 the price. $500 or $2100... hmmm

[Alien Mantis]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

Sqcomp know more than anybody else on here how much I disdain the idea of buying expensive subs... I once bought a 12" sub for $750 after tax... Saved over $100 on the purchase too. what a waste, sub was a quality built sub, but I later bought a sub for $370 that was better in both sq & spl... go figure...

Yeah, that is exactly my point.

I can get a JL W7 for $360.
If there is no sub on the market that can beat the JL W7 for LESS than $360... then the JL wins everytime.

If you show me a sub that can MATCH the W7 for less than $360... then the JL W7 LOSES.

It's all about "performance value".

Lets say a FOCAL sub costs over $1,000, and is only SLIGHTLY better than the $360 JL W7.
Guess what? The FOCAL LOSES badly.

It's all about "performance value".

( Which is why it is still hard to beat an Alpine Type-R! )

[Palmer812]

sq, here is where I put my fuse holder. There was a threaded stud sticking out from the firewall. I just drilled a hole in the base of the fuse holder and used a 10mm nut and lock washer. The wire is 16" long.
DSCI0187.jpg

[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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