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Old 05-25-2020, 06:44 PM   #19
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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More building

I feel that the reliability should be good, but this is a little 'hack' looking, I suppose. The system should be hidden fairly as I want to remain as stock looking as possible.





Surprisingly, the tank tap adapter abomination is very solid. Of course, in 24 hours, I'll know if it holds water. I had to angle the barb in toward the car as those pesky fog lights encroach into the plumbing area.



Because I was too cheap to spring for a internally-bypassed pump, I had to rig up a return line with ball valve. I actually like this because I can adjust the pressure to the misting nozzles. There will be a pressure gauge installed next to the throttle body injector.



Return to tank



Water solenoid. I would have liked to installed this closer to the pre-throttle body injector, but it would have been very difficult finding a spot to mount it. The supply line runs pretty much vertical so there should be no siphoning. Like every part of my build, any hoses, tubes, pipes, lines or wire loom that come in contact with each other or any part of the chassis or engine get a ziptied piece of split hose between them to eliminate chafing.



When researching, I came across discussion of hydrolocking when using water or water methanol injection. These situations usually occured when there were system failures and rarely when the engine was running. In most cases, water gravity fed into the cylinders and hydrolocked the engines. Because my injection points are much higher than the highest water level, I can't see any issues. Also, my injector feeding the engine can produce max 100 cc/ minute divided into 4 cylinders. Even if the system stuck on during driving, it would take around 50 ccs of water to hydrolock one cylinder in one cycle. Also, I expect that there would be serious driveability issues related to quenched combustion before any hydrolocking could occur.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-25-2020 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 05-30-2020, 10:12 AM   #20
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Water injection install continues

I have two extra nozzles, so I have mounted one in front of the intercooler. I have also purchased another water solenoid as a redundancy in case one fails. It will be placed immediately before the pre-throttle body and just before a check valve.

I am building in as many fail-safe features as possible. Although it would be virtually impossible to hydrolock the engine with the small amount I'm injecting, I want to be certain that that is not a possibility.

I will make a small plastic shroud that will channel the water away from the metal chassis parts. It will be attached to the bottom of the intercooler, as, right now, the water drips run along lower rad support. I may also bend the nozzle support bracket, tilting the nozzle toward the intercooler a bit. Or, grind away a tiny bit of the crash bar. The water cone produced by the nozzle does hit the crash bar slightly. I could lower the nozzle a few mm and it would solve the problem. Even a couple of the brass washers on the nozzle side of the plate would suffice, I suspect.



Bracket







Water filter installed. Fortunately the JB Weld did a great job on the WW tank outlet. Not a drip and I've tested it multiple times. It actually sealed just threading into the plastic, but it is thin and I like the idea of reinforcement. The return line to the WW tank works great.



A bit more done today... I tested the system using my compressor to trigger the FIC's map sensor to trigger the pump. Works great and as soon as my compressor gauge hits 3 - 4 psi, the pump comes on. All I have left to do now is mount the nozzle in pipe pre-throttle body.

Final testing.



Wiring is all done.

Pump on indicator



Master switch

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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-30-2020 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:00 AM   #21
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Having second thoughts

I found information about the design of the 2ZR intake and I'm getting a little concerned at pooling of water might become an issue. No matter how fine the mist from the nozzles is (even on professional water/methanol injection systems), there is some dripping of fluid when the spray hits the throttle body/charge pipes. I'm afraid that it will slowly fill the manifold, then suck in enough water to hydrolock the engine.



https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19...engine_eng.htm

EDIT: I had a lengthy discussion with my tuner today. He feels strongly that the extreme airflow within the manifold will result in virtually all of the mist/water making it to the combustion chambers leaving trace amounts in the manifold. He said that it will be constantly purged. Apparently, many small 4 cylinder engines use a very similar manifold and there are lots of these cars running around with injection kits. He did however try very hard to convince me that I should run a water/methanol mix. As pointed out by Sam, my pump is not rated for combustible liquids. The general consensus online is that anything under 50% methanol will not burn. However, I have read that windshield washer fluid will burn, albeit with an invisible flame - sounds scary. I'll do some further research and may settle on a mix with a lower percentage of methanol. Bonus is, is that a local business owner has drums of methanol and he'll see me it for $5.00 a gallon. Lastly, I may scrap the intercooler mister. My tuner does not feel that the excess moisture that ends up in the engine bay is worth - in his belief - the almost immeasurable temp drop delivered by an intercooler sprayer. He says I should see great benefits (greatly increased effective octane rating) with the direct pre-throttle body injection. So, I am going forth with the injection. I recently inherited a sum of 'hobby' money. Should something happen to my engine, I may look into picking up another 2ZR, build the bottom end (our buy a pre-built from MWR) and start looking at either a build for my 4-speed auto or a 6-speed swap and LSD. I know for the money, I could buy a faster used performance car, but there is something inherent about this car that prevents me from fretting over dumping 'too much' money into it. I have absolutely zero buyer's remorse when it comes to my baby.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 06-02-2020 at 11:28 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 11:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
[B]I know for the money, I could buy a faster used performance car, but there is something inherent about this car that prevents me from fretting over dumping 'too much' money into it. I have absolutely zero buyer's remorse when it comes to my baby.
She's a thing of beauty. You've done amazing with it
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Old Yesterday, 12:16 PM   #23
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I truly admire your passion for your car and your willingness to research and test things that very few people would even consider for a Yaris.
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Old Yesterday, 01:26 PM   #24
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
She's a thing of beauty. You've done amazing with it
Thanks very much, Ernie! I don't know why it took me so many years to acquire a Yaris. I love everything about this little car.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Old Yesterday, 01:32 PM   #25
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leegamer View Post
I truly admire your passion for your car and your willingness to research and test things that very few people would even consider for a Yaris.
Thanks a lot Leegamer! Yes, a Yaris... If I'd picked up a Honda, I probably could have done this a lot easier and cheaper. But, what fun would that be. Haha! Engine-swapped and turbo'd Hondas are a dime a dozen. Although many, many, regard the Yaris as a cheap throwaway car - as evidenced by the throngs posting on the Mighty Car Mods videos - I think it's the perfect, unique and insanely reliable platform from which to build a great little sleeper go-kart. See, we here at YW are smarter than the average bear. We figured it out.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Old Yesterday, 11:10 PM   #26
06YarisRS
 
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Primary injection nozzle installed

I test fitted the nozzle. There is a water solenoid right before the nozzle, so leaking should be zero. I am considering reconfiguring this a bit to possibly include a throttle body spacer and injecting on the engine side of the throttle body. I didn't want do this initially as the vacuum is so much stronger on the engine side and I worried about constant siphoning. But, with this solenoid connected directly to the nozzle, that problem would be eliminated. I did a bunch of flow testing and with the current M2 nozzle, I am getting 120cc/min. This would be perfect for straight water injection, but after speaking with my tuner, I'm leaning toward the strongest methanol/water mix that would be non-flammable, likely 40% methanol/60% water. Since I have easy access to AFR data, I can just rework the fuel map a bit if it goes too rich. I will likely replace the M2 for an M3 nozzle and spray 160 cc/minute. I have a variety of nozzles, so I'll start small and work my way up.

I am going to rotate the solenoid down to vertical. Initially, I didn't think I'd have enough clearance to get the transmission dip stick tube out, but with the solenoid tilted vertical, I actually have enough room to easily get the dipstick out and back in.



Possible throttle body spacer. This would require some mods. I would need to grind down flat a spot on the strange fluted inner part of the ring to mount the nozzle, drill a hole and tap it 1/8" NPT. This would actually give me a better seal as the surface would be flat and I could use a nylon washer between the surface and the nozzle.



Bits and pieces including an extra water solenoid. If I decide to inject at a second point - pre or post turbo - I'll use that solenoid.



Tapped charge pipe and nozzle



A different angle

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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
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Old Today, 09:51 PM   #27
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Test drive tomorrow

I only have the pre-throttle body injector istalled. It is an M2 nozzle and at the current pressure (60 psi) it will be injecting 120 cc/min. This is the appropriate amount for straight distilled water. I'll do a run with straight water. Then a run with mix of ~60/40 water/methanol. If the system runs well, I may upsize to a M3 nozzle (160 cc at 60 psi). If it runs a bit rich on the water/methanol mix, I'll have to make a decision. If I adjust my fuel map for water/methanol use, I'll have to run with the system armed all the time, because if I do lean the mixture, it will stay lean when the system is disarmed. I want the ability to use the system sometimes (such as hot days) and disable it at cooler times such as spring and fall and I don't want to go through the hassle of switching between a methanol and a non-methanol fuel map. If I suffer no power loss with straight water, that's what I'll probably stick with. If I notice significant power gains with the water/methanol mix, I'll have the system active all the time. I could run a spring/fall map and then a summer map. It really only takes seconds to load a different map. Decisions, decisions.

Anyway, the system works as expected and I tested the crap out of it with the nozzle out of the charge pipe, cycling it over and over and running the pump for extended periods. My next step - if all goes as expected - is to hook up a pre or post turbo injector. I should be able to run a water/methanol mix through the MAF as longs as it's fully evaporated before it hits the MAF. I really want to be able to see the effect on IATs and I'd have to inject pre-MAF for that unless I install a dedicated gauge, but not really into doing that. I should, however, be able to see EGTs affected by the pre-throttle body injector.

Wired primary injector solenoid



I found an old turbo oil drain gasket. I bored it out and doubled it up. It seems to make a great seal on the nozzle fitting. I'll see tomorrow if there is a small boost leak there. You can see the gasket just under the brass washer.



Final lower plumbing. I threw in an extra check valve as a coupler between the nylon line and fuel injection hose. The injection hose going up to the nozzle is rated for 160 psi, so should be more than adequate.

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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2H...Ee6j8kR7LmsdvN
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; Today at 10:07 PM.
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