Track Setups

[soloecho2]

Loran, Jason and any other track nuts.
I am proceding down the slippery slope of lapping.
My question to you all is. Is there a dummies guide to suspension setups.
Like if you have Coil Overs are you best to set as low as possible or is balanceing the corner weights is more important ? At the track if the strut valving is adjustable and the back end is lose soften the back and stiffen the front. And so on.
Any help is appreciated.

[johnny_vitz]

Originally Posted by soloecho2

Loran, Jason and any other track nuts.
I am proceding down the slippery slope of lapping.
My question to you all is. Is there a dummies guide to suspension setups.
Like if you have Coil Overs are you best to set as low as possible or is balanceing the corner weights is more important ? At the track if the strut valving is adjustable and the back end is lose soften the back and stiffen the front. And so on.
Any help is appreciated.

I'd like to know the same thing
I wish my coilies were adjustable (compression/rebound) so I could stiffen it up for the track...

[cali yaris]

here's a good thread:
http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...on-Setup-Guide

I personally go for the stiffer the better; currently running 8k front / 10k rear springs and full stiff on the rear shocks when racing.

I have very neutral steering and controllable, as shown here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNuCuQxMG6k

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by soloecho2

Loran, Jason and any other track nuts.
I am proceding down the slippery slope of lapping.
My question to you all is. Is there a dummies guide to suspension setups.
Like if you have Coil Overs are you best to set as low as possible or is balanceing the corner weights is more important ? At the track if the strut valving is adjustable and the back end is lose soften the back and stiffen the front. And so on.
Any help is appreciated.

You can go to low... If your lower A arm is inverted (the outside of the arm is higher than the mounting point on the car) you are doing bad things to the camber curve. You also want to watch the travel, to little and you hit the bump stops, bounce, and lose traction. On stock class cars, with soft springs, we often use a shock with a lot of rebound to hold the car on the bump stops. But with real suspension try to stay away from them, they are there to save the shock, not to do the job of a spring.

Corner weights are important, but don't kill yourself trying to get them perfect, you never will with a solid rear (or beam) axle. Try to get the fronts even with you in the car - also make sure to unhook your front swaybar endlink so there is no preload on the springs when you do it.

If the car is loose less rear rebound will help with traction... But I like working on the front instead. Crank in as much front rebound as you can stand. The more you have the quicker it will change directions. Once you get to the point it makes the car understeer back off a bit and work on the rear.

[soloecho2]

Thanks Alot guys greatly appreciated.
Sorry Johnny didn't mean to take another down this slippery slope.