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Old 02-24-2010, 08:10 PM   #1
cdydjded
 
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Turbocharged Dyno Result

Well today has been an interesting day. I posted an opinion earlier here & always a certain member which will remain nameless, critisize everything I stated. So I took this oportunity to dyno my car. I did this to see how much power I gained after I turbo'd my car & find out if what I was stating earlier was right or wrong. What I stated earlier was the following: you cant run TC injectors on a boosted Yaris without reprograming the ECU. What will happen is that you will run rich & have a high RPM misfire. I base this on 3 members who were boosted, were running TC injector & all suffered from high RPM misfires. Now I might be wrong & Ill be the first to admit it. So to prove my point I dyno my car and here are the results:

Run 1
Stock Injectors
Boost 4-5lbs
Max HP 151.77
Max TQ 133.49

AFR
3500 RPM 13.20
4000 RPM 13.00
4500 RPM 12.80
5000 RPM 12.80
5500 RPM 13.40
6000 RPM 13.20
6500 RPM 12.80

As you can see the car was running on the lean side. I knew & stated earlier that is was. I made 3 more runs and all the results were roughly the same. Runs 4-9 had the following results:

Run 9
1ZZ Injector
Boost 4-5lbs
Max HP 154.40
Max TQ 137.05

AFR
3500 RPM 10.00
4000 RPM 10.00
4500 RPM 10.00
5000 RPM 10.40
5500 RPM 11.20
6000 RPM 11.60
6500 RPM 10.20

Now Im running rich. I was going to raise the boost to 6-7lbs but was not able to. What I will do now is drive the car for about a week to see if the factory computer compinsates for the larger injector. Then I will install the TC injectors. Stay tuned........
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:22 PM   #2
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Nice Numbers!!

You got PM
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:53 PM   #3
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So whats wrong with running the 1ZZ injectors? 11.2-11.5 is kinda the money zone, thought you need to wait a cycle or too which is like 80 miles of driving before the ecu can start relearning itself. If you just slap injectors in the car, you are going to have the ecu keep the same constant of injector latency and it will just dump fuel. The O2 sensor is obviously going to see this and try to lean it out some more.over time.

I don't get why you people aregue over goofy crap, i read the other thread and you can't just internet hunt for information without having the knowledge to back it up.

So just add some more airz and balances its outs to 10.8-11.8afr range kabloom kaplowie
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:04 PM   #4
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I did not internet surf for my info. I know what Im talking about. But there is no way to prove it without results. I could not put into words what I was claiming. I found the MSD page to prove my point. And it was not the only page stating what I know is correct. Yes Im going to drive around & dyno again. Im going to remove fuel with the AEM FIC & get the AFR's in the 11.8-12.2 zone.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:19 PM   #5
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the FIC is still a piggy back correct? If you have no way of feeding it the stock O2 sensor and having it put out an altered narrowband signal you will be at constant war with the ECU and you will just have to live with what it gives you? Because thats just how these systems work? right
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:38 PM   #6
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Yes the FIC is a piggyback. It only modifies signal under boost, it has a built in map sensor. We will soon find out if it works like I intend to use it.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:52 PM   #7
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Props to you for doing MULTIPLE dynos, trying various combinations and testing out these parts in REAL LIFE. And why -- because you want to know, just like everyone else does. Who else is willing to do even that much.
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:02 AM   #8
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When I tried to run tC injectors, my AFR wideband completely pegged out on the rich side. With the smaller 1ZZ injectors, I am getting nearly the same AFR readings you have. Maybe a tiny bit higher.

I get around 7-8lbs boost from the Blitz S/C.
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:30 PM   #9
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There has been some comments about what is the correct AFR my car should or is running. Some people say it lean & some say it rich. This is what I will do to my car & those going to boost their cars can do the same or go in another direction. Im going to let the factory ECU control the AFR's while not in boost. Now while under boost/wide open throttle Im going to use the AEM FIC to get the AFR's in the 11.8:1-12.2:1 range. This is my opinion on how I want my car to run. Please if you feel I have no idea what Im doing keep you comments to yourself. I really dont want to here them. Im sorry if this sounds harsh but Iv had enough of this he said she said crap.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:28 PM   #10
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good luck m8
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:02 PM   #11
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4-5lbs
Stock Injectors
pos_yaris.jpg
4-5lbs
1ZZ Injectors
pos_yaris_1zz_inj.jpg
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:19 AM   #12
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150+ nice numbers
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:50 PM   #13
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I like the idea of the built in map sensor. Should work great when tuning under boost. What made you decide to tune with the AEM FIC instead of the Greddy Emanage ultimate? Are U tuning yourself or is the dyno shop tuning for you? Does this unit come with software to tune yourself? Is it a a pain in the ass to figure out how to make it work? Sorry for so may questions, I am puting together a turbo system for my Yaris and am trying to decide witch piggyback to go with Aem or Greddy. Also 1 more ?. Did you pull back timing at all?
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:26 AM   #14
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The main reason for using the AEM FIC was the map sensor. The way it works is that when the car is not seeing boost the AEM does absolutely nothing, and that is what is needed, the factory ECU is in control. When under boost the AEM takes over and does what you program it to do.
Are U tuning yourself or is the dyno shop tuning for you?
Im tuning it myself.
Does this unit come with software to tune yourself?
Yes it comes with software
Is it a a pain in the ass to figure out how to make it work?
No if you have tuned piggybacks before
Did you pull back timing at all?
No, Im only pulling fuel since Im using the 1ZZ injectors
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdydjded View Post
The main reason for using the AEM FIC was the map sensor. The way it works is that when the car is not seeing boost the AEM does absolutely nothing, and that is what is needed, the factory ECU is in control. When under boost the AEM takes over and does what you program it to do.
Are U tuning yourself or is the dyno shop tuning for you?
Im tuning it myself.
Does this unit come with software to tune yourself?
Yes it comes with software
Is it a a pain in the ass to figure out how to make it work?
No if you have tuned piggybacks before
Did you pull back timing at all?
No, Im only pulling fuel since Im using the 1ZZ injectors
Thanks for the quick answers. Just two more. When normal driving [no boost] is your car runing very rich due to larger injectors, or is the factory ecu able to compensate with fuel trim. Also is your check engine light on or did you use a o2sensor simulator for the post catalyst sensor. Thanks again
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
Props to you for doing MULTIPLE dynos, trying various combinations and testing out these parts in REAL LIFE. And why -- because you want to know, just like everyone else does. Who else is willing to do even that much.
+1

I'm really glad to see such a straight forward, no BS thread like this. Clears up a lot of confusion about boosting and will look forward to how this turns out.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:51 PM   #17
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My car with the 1ZZ injectors & no correction from the AEM FIC runs rich. I am able to pull fuel with the AEM FIC to correct this rich condition while not in boost. Yes I have the check engine light on cause I have no catalytic. I tried to use a o2 fooler but it did not work. I use a o2 spacer as opposed to a o2 simulator which is electronic.
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:31 PM   #18
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Thanks, I wont waste my time buying one of those o2s fooler tubes. I guess I will try the electronic version when its time. I would ask how the car starts when its cold, but your in Miami and your idea of cold is nothing like the arctic crap we have here in Chicago come winter time!
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