Bazooka A100 subwoofer install advice needed

[LugNut]

It's awful outside, so I'm working/doing research inside but am still swimmy-headed this July 4th morning ...

I have a Bazooka A100 (6.5 in. powered subwoofer) to install in the Yaris (2007 2DR Liftback), and am investigating the wiring. I'll be putting the woofer on the rear seat floor, on the passenger's side with the speaker pointing out to the side/corner.

I have the rear side panels and door sill off as part of the rear speakers' replacement (done, except for these panels/sill). I'm also removing the rear seats as part of the reversible conversion to a two-seater.

I have a new Scosche line output converter (FA13A) that I picked up yesterday at Walmart, if needed (under $19). After it gets too hot in the garage today I'll do more searching/reading on the site, but if you have done this specific install I'd appreciate your early advice!

I'll be running a positive lead from the battery, probably on the right side under the door sill.

I think I can ground under the center arm rest. If not that, under the right seat mounting bolt -- I'll be doing the seat-tilt mod too.

I'm sticking with the factory head unit, at least for now. Does it have a amp/antenna/accessory (radio on) output? If not, is there an easy place (but hidden) to tap in for ignition-on + power?

How about speaker outputs to connect to? RCA connections on the OEM head unit? I think I read here "no, you must use the line output converter." I have easy access to the rear speakers' terminals right now, so I could solder leads from them back to the line output converter. The A100 has both RCA ("low-level") and speaker wire ("high-level") inputs (as well as an auto-on feature that's not highly recommended in the instructions).

Thanks in advance!

[LugNut]

Found a great firewall passthrough for the positive wire -- an existing, unused rubber plug just above the passenger's/right side of the engine control module.

Looks like the sub will mount well to the floor. I'll make a small aluminum bracket that attaches to the lower rear seat mounts.

[edmscan]

Just be careful with criminal stealing your subs. I had this happen and mine were hidden in the hatch area. But that still didn't help them from being stolen.

Just a thought .... if they can see them, they can steal them.

[LugNut]

Thanks. Hopefully it will be mostly hidden under the new rear deck. New window tint should be helpful too. And keeping the OEM head unit, etc. to keep the car looking stock/cheap.

[LugNut]

It's installed, except for the hold-down straps which need to wait until the frame for the new rear deck is installed. I'll use some padded pipe strap until then.

Sounds good.

Ran 14 gauge (16+ recommended for this powered sub) red wire from the 7.5 Amp battery fuse through the above-described firewall hole/plug, under the right kick panel, under the sill plate, and then under the carpet to the subwoofer's harness. Grounded the harness to the rear seat holddown, at least for now.

Soldered "high level inputs" speaker wire to the terminals on the rear speakers that I just modified (see the mods links in my signature). Then ran them under the rear carpet to the harness. All electrical connections are soldered, even after crimping lugs on, etc.

Went with the third option for turning on/off the subwoofer -- the self-detect feature. Seems to work well, but if I find the head unit's amp lead in the future I will convert to it.

Finished off the install with zip ties, and black convolute tubing under the hood and on the subwoofer's harness. Overall, a conventional install, except having the sill plates and rear panels off for replacing the rear speakers, and the rear seats out for converting to a two-seater, made it alot easier.

[derickveliz2]

Did you try facing the bazzoka about 3 inches to the rear door on the right side?

Different locations and aiming will give you different outputs.

D.

[LugNut]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

Did you try facing the bazzoka about 3 inches to the rear door on the right side?

Different locations and aiming will give you different outputs.

D.

To the hatch? Might sound a bit better there, but I will be installing a flat deck there in the near-ish future, and need the flat, open space for hauling stuff, Dobermans, etc. I did test-fit the sub in the spare tire's well, but it wouldn't fit there.

[derickveliz2]

How it does it fit over the front passenger seat? facing forward towards the fire-wall!

D.

[m3177o]

looking good, i love how the bass sounds in a hatch. nothing gets trapped in the trunk like a regular sedan or coupe.

can you post pic of the firewall where you ran the power for the amp? thanks

[derickveliz2]

In a sedan (like mine) by taking the rear speakers out and letting the air go through is enough to have a sub in the trunk,... although road noise also is to be consider in both but more in hat-backs.

But my intention is not to argue about the sub in the trunk or what sounds best, I don't even have my sub in the trunk! I agree with you, the bass is cleaner when it's in the same ambient of the listener.

Even better when it's up front!

There are 2 ways to run power from the battery inside the cabin, 1 on the pilots side! you have to remove the battery to get access, the other one is on the passenger's side, very high almost where the dash meets the windshield it's easier from the engine compartment but it's a little hard inside the cabin, you have to take out the glove compartment .

Both are good, it's up to you.

D.