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Old 06-11-2013, 02:05 PM   #19
RedRide
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esse10 View Post
it's better if you put just a little Anti-sieze. If you put too much AS that's when you run into problems of overtightening them. you'll have a hard time removing them those plugs without the AS at 90k miles....good luck though
I have to agree.

As I previously said, the threads should be either oiled or, have AS compound applied .... with dry threads, it's somewhat difficult to get an accurate torque reading at such a low torque spec.

Either way, I can not see how that would cause one to over tighten a plug unless they won multiple Darwin awards.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberSilver View Post
I use Anti-Sez on plugs and tighten by hand, grabbing the head on the ratchet and turning until it stops. It's most likely around 15~20 ft.

Over the last 40 years I've done over 1000 plugs, and never had one brake, strip or cross thread.

I've have fixed plenty of mucked up plug threads that others have thrashed.

I've only been using anti-sez for the last 20 years. If you ask why Toyota does not? I'd guess it would be a cost thing.
My experience mirrors yours.

I have seen broken off plugs in both iron and aluminum blocks. I was taught in automotive repair school that any thread that was going to get hot should have anti-seize.

The old school stuff was a product with lead in it called John Crane. I remember it because we always referred to it as "John Wayne."
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:03 PM   #21
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Just finished swapping the plugs per the diy. Edd China would be proud! One question... It now idles REALLY low. In the 500 rpm range. I have to admit that I accidentally left off one of the coil pack wires and started the car. After hearing it missing I looked and plugged it back in and cleared the check engine light with my phone and torque pro. Should I be worried? It idled a lot higher than that before the new plugs. My old plus looked perfect except for a tiny little miniature mound of corrosion on each gap where the spark obviously connects.
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:04 PM   #22
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Ps I used no AS.
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Before it was totaled I drove a 2007 Black Sand Pearl 3 Door Lift-Back M/T with 49k miles. Stock Everything except for black tint, all red badges, red dash, and stealth garage door opener. Ultra-Gauge mounted on steering wheel. A1 Electric MES Central Locks and Avital 3100 Alarm system.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:39 AM   #23
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It's normal.It depends on which plug you use. Bosch spark plug makes the engine idle lower than NGK's, it also quietens and it runs smoother. But these cars are designed to idle low anyway. Just make sure you have the coil pack in the right order and torqued to spec.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:41 AM   #24
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The idle thing seems to have evened out. hehe seems fine now.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:21 AM   #25
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My experience

Regarding the low idle, I experienced it as well, and it was also temporary. I just replaced my original spark plugs (they were Denso) with new NGR IFR5T11, at 82,000 miles. Original plugs looked pretty good as far as I could tell (not an expert). They all looked the same, which I'm sure is a good thing (don't need to be an expert to know that).

Anyways, after driving around the block a few times for the first time since installing the new plugs, i parked at home and let it idle. RPM was around 450 to 500 RPM, and causing a semi shaking/ vibration of the car, that i could physically feel. i rev'd the engine for a minute or so and it went away and hasn't come back.

My theory is that the CPU is somehow re-calibrating to the new plugs, but that's only a guess.

By the way, replacing your own spark plugs is easy! I didn't use a torque wrench (too expensive), but was cautious to not overtighten, just snug. i used a "single hand" method to be sure i wasn't overtightening. Also, I put a very small amount of anti-seize on the threads.
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