Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[yarisyeti]

could I use a 529T?

[yarisyeti]

Can I use a 529T?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarisyeti

Can I use a 529T?

Yes. The 529T just gives you one direction, whereas the 530T gives you both.

[yarisyeti]

wouldn't hooking up a relay like thishttp://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm work just the same?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by yarisyeti

wouldn't hooking up a relay like thishttp://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm work just the same?

Yes, although the relays will stay energized as long as the output channel is on, whereas the 529T or 530T has some intelligence to turn its relays off. The problem with leaving them energized is that if you trigger the output channel after turning the car off, and then leave the car parked for a day or so, you may come back to a dead battery.

[mirapatec]

@ CTScott - Thanks for sharing all this information with other Yaris owners.

[pat005]

Sorry to be "that guy" but I seem to be struggling with something I feel isn't very complicated but don't want to mess it up. Here's mine but I can't find from the DIY I can't seem to find anything that looks remotely similar with the two black and two pick wires. Oh yeah, 2008 HB Yaris. Thanks
https://plus.google.com/photos/11558...66988681874529
Link to the two photos

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by pat005

Sorry to be "that guy" but I seem to be struggling with something I feel isn't very complicated but don't want to mess it up. Here's mine but I can't find from the DIY I can't seem to find anything that looks remotely similar with the two black and two pick wires. Oh yeah, 2008 HB Yaris. Thanks
https://plus.google.com/photos/11558...66988681874529
Link to the two photos

You are about a foot to the left of where that connector in my picture is. It is the ignition switch connector, which is located at the base of the ignition switch, on the right side of the steering column.

[WestCoast]

Thank you so much CTScott,
My 2007 auto transmission Yaris is a 5 door hatch back without keyless entry, manual windows, but have a button to lock and unlock the door. Does it need a keypass or not?
Thank you again,

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by WestCoast

Thank you so much CTScott,
My 2007 auto transmission Yaris is a 5 door hatch back without keyless entry, manual windows, but have a button to lock and unlock the door. Does it need a keypass or not?
Thank you again,

Most likely not with an 07, but you can tell by looking at the ignition switch. If it is all metal then no, if the part that rotates is metal and the part that surrounds it is black plastic, then yes.

[WestCoast]

Thank you so much for your reply so quickly. My ignition switch doesn't have the black plastic surround it. So should be don't need the keypass.
My remote starter is Firstech CM6200. I connected the CN1(Accessory, Starter, Ignition, Ground, Constant 12V, 12 Parklning light output), and CN4(Unlock Output, Lock Output).
But didn't connect the CN2, which are (Output to Starter-kill), Hood Pin Input, .... etc.)
Because I don't know where to find these cables in your diy chart. Any advices for me?

[WestCoast]

Actually, my CN2 details as below:
(-) 250mA Output to Starter-Kill Blue 1
(-) Parking Light Reminder Orange/Black 2
(-) 250mA 2nd Parking Light Output(POC #1) Green/White 3
(-) Emergency Brake Input Light Blue 4
(-) 250mA 2nd Starter Output (POC #2) Red/Black 5
(+) Foot Brake Input Light Blue/White 6
(-) 250mA 2nd Ignition Output (POC #3) Green 7
(-) Trunk Trigger Input Violet/Black 8
(-) 250mA 2nd Accessory Output (POC #4) White/Black 9
(+/-) Door Trigger Input Red/White 10
(-) 250mA Status Out(GWR) (POC #5) Black 11
(+/-) Key Sense/Glow Plug Input Brown/White 12
(-) 250mA Rearm Output (POC #6) Orange 13
(-) Slave/Timer Start input Pink 14
(-) 250mA Disarm Output (POC #7) Orange/White 15
Engine Sensing Input (Alt./Tach/Battery) Yellow/Black 16
(-) 250mA Horn Output (POC #8) White 17
(-) Hood Pin Input Gray/Black 18
(-) 250mA Aux1 Output (POC #9) Violet 19
(+) 12V Output to Siren Brown 20

I only need remote start my car, and remote lock and unlock my car, do I need connect all of these cables or just some of them. It's really hard for me to find the right connecting place.

[CTScott]

Starter kill is an optional one that requires an extra relay and is documented in your remote starter's manual. You end up cutting the black starter wires on the ignition switch connector and connecting the relay in between.

Parking light output, foot brake, 2nd Ignition output, and Tach input are all in my guide.

The hood pin will be documented in your manual, as it is simply a pin switch that requires you to drill a hole to mount under the hood. It doesn't get connected to any of the car's wires.

[WestCoast]

Hi CTScott, I have tested my +12V parking light(green pin 29), but the meter read is 0, and the -12V parking light(white pin 13) is 12V. What I can do?
My CM6200 need input is +12V.
Thanks in advance,

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by WestCoast

Hi CTScott, I have tested my +12V parking light(green pin 29), but the meter read is 0, and the -12V parking light(white pin 13) is 12V. What I can do?
My CM6200 need input is +12V.
Thanks in advance,

Parking light is not an input, it is an output, so your device will output +12V to pin 29 to flash the lights.

[Nadial]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Parking light is not an input, it is an output, so your device will output +12V to pin 29 to flash the lights.

Hi guys,


First off, great forum, I have searched for a couple of days and found all the wires (even how to wire throught the firewall ) for my DIY alarm install on my 09 two door hatchback, or so I thought.

Surely this is a noob question, but I cannot get the parking lights to flash. My sp-101 manual depicts two (white) 12v flashing light outputs (7.5 amp x 2).

I have tried:

Connecting one white wire to pin 13, parking light (-), on the 13-pin plug by the headlight switch without success

Connecting one white wire to pin 29 (green wire), parking light (+), on 30-pin plug 4A in the dash fuse box without success.

I have tried alternating the two white wires in both positions as well.

It might bear mentioning the the the 12v power input is connected to the gray wire, pin 5, on the 8 pin plug by the ignition swith. Which is supposed to be constant 12v.

Thanks in advance

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nadial

Hi guys,


First off, great forum, I have searched for a couple of days and found all the wires (even how to wire throught the firewall ) for my DIY alarm install on my 09 two door hatchback, or so I thought.

Surely this is a noob question, but I cannot get the parking lights to flash. My sp-101 manual depicts two (white) 12v flashing light outputs (7.5 amp x 2).

I have tried:

Connecting one white wire to pin 13, parking light (-), on the 13-pin plug by the headlight switch without success

Connecting one white wire to pin 29 (green wire), parking light (+), on 30-pin plug 4A in the dash fuse box without success.

I have tried alternating the two white wires in both positions as well.

It might bear mentioning the the the 12v power input is connected to the gray wire, pin 5, on the 8 pin plug by the ignition swith. Which is supposed to be constant 12v.

Thanks in advance

If you have a green wire in your headlight switch connector, in place of one of the white/black wires, then you would have to use the Pin 29 + connection, instead of the pin 13 white connection.

Check the 10A TAIL and 7.5A PANEL2 fuses in the fuse panel that is under to bottom of the dash to see if you popped one of those fuses. If you connected to - output to pin 29 you would pop it.

[Nadial]

The 10A tail is fine, there is no panel 2, only a 7.5A panel 1 beside the 10A tail, and it is fine.

This is what I have for the headlight switch connector




Sorry I had to use a picture from another forum, best I could do in short notice.

I tested the connection for continuity.

The one thing I noticed is that the left front parking light (inside the headlight assembly) is burned out.


Thanks