Oil change on and off

[Mazsive]

I've noticed today when I did a really hard brake that the light came on for a sec and turned off, I still have 1.5k miles to 5k miles and the oil level is full.
My car has 274000 miles on it.

I drive daily as a curior. Should I change it more often?
Not sure whats causing this. I've only seen it on extremely hard braking.
Anyone know what the issue might be or is it just me worrying about nothing? Maybe just oil slushing and triggers the light?

https://youtu.be/o6OVFfxl5Oo like that.yes I'm aware my brake pad squeals:)

[ex-x-fire]

That's oil pressure light not the oil change light. You must be low on oil or have oil pressure issues.

[komichal]

if it still persists with new oil filter and new quality oil then I would change oil pressure sensor. They are not expensive and they are quite often the culprit.

[Mazsive]

Originally Posted by komichal

if it still persists with new oil filter and new quality oil then I would change oil pressure sensor. They are not expensive and they are quite often the culprit.

You got any idea where its located? I guess I could just replace it. Sounds easy enough.

[komichal]

It depends on the engine you have. I suppose you do not have the 2SZFE I have experience with.
Maybe this is a stupid question as there may be only one engine type available in your country. I do not know.

[Mazsive]

Well I've done some checks. It needed oil as pointed out, so refilled. Now I opened the engine oil cap and I noticed some solid oil but doesn't look like sludge. It looks like build up. Anyway it prevented me from looking all the day down to the engine bay, the oil colour is fine. Not black but healthy.
I'm not sure what that buildup is but it looks like hot milk you boiled and let the skin form but black.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Mazsive

Well I've done some checks. It needed oil as pointed out, so refilled. Now I opened the engine oil cap and I noticed some solid oil but doesn't look like sludge. It looks like build up. Anyway it prevented me from looking all the day down to the engine bay, the oil colour is fine. Not black but healthy.
I'm not sure what that buildup is but it looks like hot milk you boiled and let the skin form but black.

Pics?

[Nu18F]

Originally Posted by Mazsive

Well I've done some checks. It needed oil as pointed out, so refilled. Now I opened the engine oil cap and I noticed some solid oil but doesn't look like sludge. It looks like build up. Anyway it prevented me from looking all the day down to the engine bay, the oil colour is fine. Not black but healthy.
I'm not sure what that buildup is but it looks like hot milk you boiled and let the skin form but black.

I think you are seeing the deflector plate on top of the cam chain. It gets a bath of oil while running so oil change was likely overrun at some point. It could have been early on or later in miles but if it has heavy varnish cooked on it your PCV valve likely needs changed. A new PCV valve , a switch to an oil like Mobil 5w-30 or 10w-30 High Mileage could lower the oil burning. Clean air filter's help as well. Myself, I wouldn't use an engine flush that's for sure.

Here's that plate inside my engine after ten years.

[06YarisRS]

I don't like engine flushes either. When I bought my 2008 LE, it had low and very black oil. Owned by idiots. I did 3 1000 km oil changes. It cleaned the engine up beautifully. With each consecutive oil change, the oil came out cleaner. The first one was ugly. Car ran smooth and quiet after that. The detergents in modern engine oil do a great job of subtlety cleaning, not extreme and risky like a powerful solvent- based product.

[IndestructibleYaris]

You need to overfill the oil (within reason) or get a new oil pan with proper compartments to avoid oil starvation at strong maneuvers. If you only get this oil pressure light during hard braking with oil level full it's a badly designed oil pan/oil pickup. If you drive it like this too many times while oil light is on it may ruin the bearings on the crankshaft and explode the engine. Most likely will be fine because you're not straining the engine while braking but I would avoid triggering low oil pressure at all costs

Edit: this problem has nothing to do with engine condition, filter condition, or sludge. If so you would get oil light at idle in park and neutral or at stop with engine running in gear. If oil is picked up properly by pickup tube the oil pressure is up with no strain but high rpm and lower oil pressure occurs with high strain and low rpm. Oil pump speed increases linear with rpm and any fault in engine would be exacerbated with low rpm and high engine load/strain. His condition is above or at idle with minimal load and if he doesn't experience this oil pressure light at idle to take off (moving) it leads me to believe his engine/oil pump is healthy. If the oil was significantly lower than the acceptable range it was probably just very low on oil after a bad measure during oil change or oil consumption from PCV, worn piston rings, or worn valve stem seals. All of those problems are easy fixes. Replace pcv, engine restore for piston/cylinder walls, and seal restore additive in engine oil for valve stem seals.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by IndestructibleYaris

You need to overfill the oil (within reason) or get a new oil pan with proper compartments to avoid oil starvation at strong maneuvers. If you only get this oil pressure light during hard braking with oil level full it's a badly designed oil pan/oil pickup. If you drive it like this too many times while oil light is on it may ruin the bearings on the crankshaft and explode the engine. Most likely will be fine because you're not straining the engine while braking but I would avoid triggering low oil pressure at all costs

Edit: this problem has nothing to do with engine condition, filter condition, or sludge. If so you would get oil light at idle in park and neutral or at stop with engine running in gear. If oil is picked up properly by pickup tube the oil pressure is up with no strain but high rpm and lower oil pressure occurs with high strain and low rpm. Oil pump speed increases linear with rpm and any fault in engine would be exacerbated with low rpm and high engine load/strain. His condition is above or at idle with minimal load and if he doesn't experience this oil pressure light at idle to take off (moving) it leads me to believe his engine/oil pump is healthy. If the oil was significantly lower than the acceptable range it was probably just very low on oil after a bad measure during oil change or oil consumption from PCV, worn piston rings, or worn valve stem seals. All of those problems are easy fixes. Replace pcv, engine restore for piston/cylinder walls, and seal restore additive in engine oil for valve stem seals.

What is "engine restore for piston/cylinder walls"?

[Mazsive]

I'm using high milage oil, turned out my car was just low on oil, I refilled and she runs good again. Im gonna swap my pcv valve and see if this stops the leak.

[Mazsive]

Swapped the pcv. Hopefully this will do the trick. Other tips I should check?

[frog13]

Unless I missed your answer, at what mileage interval do you change oil?. Use a good synthetic engine oil , example only is Mobil 1 5w 30. Your a courier correct?, possibly change engine oil earlier than usual.
Good on you for changing PCV. Check air filter too.....change if necessary ( especially if you can't recall last change or over a year since last change). Clean the Mass Airflow sensor with MAF (Mass Airflow ) cleaner.....CRC is a good brand. Do not touch the sensor bulb with your hands / gloves. The above cleaner dries within seconds.....easy job to do.

[Mazsive]

Originally Posted by frog13

Unless I missed your answer, at what mileage interval do you change oil?. Use a good synthetic engine oil , example only is Mobil 1 5w 30. Your a courier correct?, possibly change engine oil earlier than usual.
Good on you for changing PCV. Check air filter too.....change if necessary ( especially if you can't recall last change or over a year since last change). Clean the Mass Airflow sensor with MAF (Mass Airflow ) cleaner.....CRC is a good brand. Do not touch the sensor bulb with your hands / gloves. The above cleaner dries within seconds.....easy job to do.

I change every 5k with a oem filter. I use high milage full synthetic valvoline brand.
I'm thinking of doing every 3 to 4k instead. The oil stopped leaking. It seems it was the pcv. Milage also increased

[Mister]

When my PCV clogged, it drank the oil. I found a giant puddle of oil in my airbox. You might want to inspect your airbox housing.