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Old 10-06-2014, 03:46 PM   #19
aspro
 
Drives: 2011 Yaris RS 5 door 5 spd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheekeebut View Post
TRD bar complemented my coilovers nicely. It's got poise.
What kind of coilovers do you have, sheek?
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TRD sway bar, h&r coilovers, tanabe strut tower bar, konig feather, bfg sport comp 2, MI intake manifold, aem cai, dc header, trd catback, MI crank pulley, trd short shift kit, phillips hid kit, morimoto led fogs, parrot navi indash, alpine 6.5 speakers, alpine amp, alpine reverse camera, led interior lights, thule roof racks, netz badges...
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:10 PM   #20
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Tein Street Basis. I overpaid, but it was well worth it!
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheekeebut View Post
Tein Street Basis. I overpaid, but it was well worth it!
That's OK. When you over pay you tend to make sure you take care of the parts haha.
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TRD sway bar, h&r coilovers, tanabe strut tower bar, konig feather, bfg sport comp 2, MI intake manifold, aem cai, dc header, trd catback, MI crank pulley, trd short shift kit, phillips hid kit, morimoto led fogs, parrot navi indash, alpine 6.5 speakers, alpine amp, alpine reverse camera, led interior lights, thule roof racks, netz badges...
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:54 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
^ your thinking of the wrong bar. The rear sway bar is under the car, attached to the lower shock mounts. It is the only bar that really does any good for the daily driver.
You're totally right, I think my brain fart was thinking of a roll bar or something of the like. Thanks for taking a picture my man. I think I might do rims - sway - suspension and just see how it goes. The specs on the OEM wheels are 5.5" wide, if I went to a 7" (thinking about 6" but just for arguments sake) that's essentially adding a 5th tire... just fun food for thought I had today haha. Thanks for all the input guys
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:55 PM   #23
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Ok so here's a question sheek, I like to do my work at home. I've done a lot to cars but never a full suspension swap, is it something you can do with the right tools and time or better to take to a shop?
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:01 PM   #24
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^ most everybody on here who is lowered has done the job themselves. It is not hard with the right basic tools and the help of a few DIY threads on here.


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Old 10-06-2014, 09:47 PM   #25
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Yeah its a very easy car to work on. The hardest part will be working in tight spaces and getting parts to cooperate with you on the way out if they have been abused over the years from weather damage, rust etc. I did my coilover kit with a friend of mine with sprig compressors, an air impact gun and some wrenches. Thankfully my ocd with oil spraying the car paid off as my parts came out without hassle. The actual steps of removal and install of suspension components is very easy.
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TRD sway bar, h&r coilovers, tanabe strut tower bar, konig feather, bfg sport comp 2, MI intake manifold, aem cai, dc header, trd catback, MI crank pulley, trd short shift kit, phillips hid kit, morimoto led fogs, parrot navi indash, alpine 6.5 speakers, alpine amp, alpine reverse camera, led interior lights, thule roof racks, netz badges...
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:23 AM   #26
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Another valuable resource: a friend who can help you with the work. Sometimes simply that extra pair of hands is all it takes.

Last edited by sheekeebut; 10-07-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:28 AM   #27
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Essentials are garage space, spring compressor, bunch of metric wrenches and sockets, usual screwdrivers, and floor jack. Air or impact tools would greatly reduce dismounting time, but of course not essential, and if you're wondering about doing it right, better to learn your first suspension install with hand tools first. It gives you a good feel of what every part needs to do.

Really the only thing I wish I'd had was that offset wrench for the strut towers. Not absolutely needed, but that would make you look so pro during install. For like $20, I might get it just to make my future suspension installs that much more fulfilling.

Last edited by sheekeebut; 10-07-2014 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:36 AM   #28
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My coilovers thread summarises my lowering adventures, with manuals and measurements and pictures and other good stuff.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:39 AM   #29
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Depending on age and location of vehicle, a good liberal spray down of all nuts involved with Liquid Wrench the night before can't hurt.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:44 AM   #30
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^ what wee said. Some preventive lubing of parts is nice, too. I used anti-seize compound on basically every thread that prescribes a torque figure, with exception of (of course) lugs, and height adjustment threads (and it wouldn't hurt there).
This upon advice from brother and fellow modder Telly.

Oh, about torquing. That's why hand tools are great. If you don't have torque wrenches, you're still okay, as long as you use hand tools, because your own sense of paranoia (for lack of other words) and the tightening itself will probably give you an idea how tight it should be.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:49 AM   #31
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Anti-seize on reassembly FTW!
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:23 PM   #32
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For gas mileage the weight of the wheels is extraordinarily important. The lighter the better, and the amount of money you want to spend is important too.

Also don't forget aftermarket pulleys and a lightweight flywheel. Not only do they free up some power, they make the car feel a ton better.

Coilovers really are extreme unless you are going to use the adjustments and maybe take it to an autocross or track. I love my Megans but I have not needed to adjust them at all.
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