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06-23-2009, 03:05 AM | #1 |
Drives: ings 09 Yaris 3 Door LiftBack Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 465
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SS Brake Line + Brake Pad + Rotor Installed~
Installed Today:
Goodridge Stainless Steal Brake Lines (Front & Rear) CarboTech brake pads + Drilled+Slotted Rotors (fron Garm) Now, I really feel I'm stopping when I step the brake pedal
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06-23-2009, 07:15 AM | #2 |
Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 301
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Great looking lines..
How much firmer do you find the peddle? How much did the kit cost? Thanks |
06-23-2009, 08:01 AM | #3 |
Drives: '07 Yaris turbo, '11 Juke Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 849
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Do your rear lines go all the way to the rear brakes? Look kind of short to me.
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06-23-2009, 08:12 AM | #4 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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why is the tab on your camber bolt pointing down instead of in?
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06-23-2009, 09:06 AM | #5 |
Drives: red bare bone yaris hb 3dr Join Date: May 2009
Location: columbus
Posts: 1,022
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nice work Him ....
did you have to bleed the lines ? how to do it ?? my brakes setup are still waiting to be install ....and so does my exhaust .... |
06-23-2009, 10:58 AM | #6 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Of course you have to bleed the lines!
Couple thoughts on this brake setup. First, as the OP said, he FEELS like he's stopping when he steps on the brakes. Now, in reality, that's all it is. "Feel". The factory brakes might not give you the ultimate in "feel", but they WILL stop the car as quickly as the TIRES are capable of. Any other brake setup you put on the car isn't going to stop the car any faster with the same tires. I'm not saying the feel isn't good or important, though. The SS lines reduce the amount of give in the hydraulic system, which can directly be felt in the brake pedal as less movement. The brakes will actuate quicker and respond to your inputs under threshold braking a little better. (IF you have the skills to take advantage of it) And the Carbotech pads will likely grab a little better when cold and a LOT better when hot, which is most of the difference that you can feel. The result of that is more braking with less pedal effort. Not "more braking", really... just "less effort". The main reason to upgrade brakes from a performance aspect is so they'll handle more heat. This is the biggest thing that the Carbotech pads will do for you. In a track environment where you're making repeated decelerations from high speed, the stock pads will fade pretty quickly. A good pad like the Carbotech will take a lot more heat before it begins to fade. Good stuff... if you go to the track. BUT... if you go to the track, please don't use those drilled rotors! They're fine for the street, but I can't tell you how many drilled rotors I've seen at race tracks with CRACKS in them. In street driving, we don't normally get our brakes super-hot, and it's not a problem. But, in racing, we DO get the brakes really hot, and those holes in the rotor create weak areas that are an invitation for a crack to begin. Bottom line: Great setup for street, looks good. Will "feel" better, and will offer a little more resistance to occasional mild heat fade. But, for the track... leave the blingy rotors and get some solid rotors. They'll dissipate heat better and they won't be prone to cracking. |
06-23-2009, 12:55 PM | #7 |
Drives: ings 09 Yaris 3 Door LiftBack Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 465
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Sure I have bleed the lines!
Thanks Loren, very detail explanation Last edited by AlainMikli; 06-23-2009 at 01:16 PM. |
06-23-2009, 01:06 PM | #8 | ||
Drives: ings 09 Yaris 3 Door LiftBack Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 465
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Quote:
now, I only step 40% to stop my car effectively. In some highway at 60-70mph, I have to down shift to 3rd gear in order to stop for a traffic light, now I can stop at 4th even 5th gear in the same length & time. Plus, 2 of my usual passenger say the same thing, before they felt I stop the car very very soft & take a long time to stop it, however they can tell when I step on the peddle right now $120 for the goodridge ss brake line Quote:
what are you going to have on your brake setup?
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06-23-2009, 01:22 PM | #9 |
Drives: Sc'd Yaris Sedan. Join Date: May 2007
Location: civilwar town.
Posts: 660
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Nice. But I'd like to see pics with the rotors on.
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06-23-2009, 01:28 PM | #10 |
Drives: ings 09 Yaris 3 Door LiftBack Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 465
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Sure, I'll post some after I wash my car today
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06-23-2009, 01:30 PM | #11 |
Drives: Sc'd Yaris Sedan. Join Date: May 2007
Location: civilwar town.
Posts: 660
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Woot. :p
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06-23-2009, 01:55 PM | #12 |
Drives: '07 Yaris turbo, '11 Juke Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 849
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I'm still wondering why the goodridge lines only go half way instead of all the way to
the drum and if it makes any difference.
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06-23-2009, 01:58 PM | #13 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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nope.
teflon is gonna expand more than steel brake tubing. the shorter the teflon the better.
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06-23-2009, 02:16 PM | #14 | |
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Drives: 2007 4 Door Yaris Join Date: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new. |
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06-23-2009, 03:33 PM | #15 | |||
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Quote:
More mass in a brake rotor allows them to absorb more heat over a longer period of time. Talk to Spec Miata racers about brakes. A lot of those guys run the smaller 1.6 Miata brake rotors because they're lighter and every little bit helps. BUT... they can tell the difference between a NEW full-thickness (and thus full mass) rotor and one that is worn down to its service limit. A new full-thickness rotor (with more mass) will dissipate more heat and resist fade longer than it's thinner cousin. Quote:
Holding up for a 2-minute autocross run? I never said ANY brake system wouldn't do that! I said "race track". I'm talking about lap after lap of braking from 90-50, from 70-30, from 80-40... over and over. I'm NOT making this up, I've seen cracked drilled brake rotors at race tracks on everything from Porsches and Audis to Mustangs. Quote:
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06-23-2009, 04:09 PM | #16 |
Drives: '07 Yaris turbo, '11 Juke Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 849
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What about just slotted rotors as oppossed to cross drilled and slotted? Any difference there?
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06-23-2009, 04:13 PM | #17 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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warping the rotors will relate directly back to poor braking habits.
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06-23-2009, 04:18 PM | #18 |
Drives: '09 Yaris & '10 Auris Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 268
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Porsche brake discs are not drilled. If i only knew the word in english. The holes are made different, they are part of the production progress but not drilled later.
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