DHD Amps

[Emerge]

Hello, I have a DHD Ntx 2006 amp. I have had it for a while, and I figure I might as well do something with it. However, I have read mixed reviews for it and I'm wondering what everyone's best advice is.

It is a 2 channel amp, and the box says 200x200. I actually used it four or so years ago to power a 10 inch kicker sub, but that sub has been stolen since. So, I uninstalled the amp. When I did have the combo in there, I liked the bass I got, but I did think that there was probably more power in that sub that the amp couldn't produce even bridged.

So, anyway. What do you guys think? Is this useable? Should I try to get some money for it? What would you do if you had this laying around?

[Emerge]

Any input?

[talnlnky]

without the full specs on the amp we can't really tell you how much power it has... but if you take a look at the fuses and then multiple that by 7 and that will give you a decent idea of how much power that amp actually produces...

for example. Got a 2channel amp is rated 100x2, it has a single 20amp fuse.
20x7 = 140. so really, the most power it's going to push would be 70x2 (AT ITS LOWEST OHM LOAD)

So.. where does the 100x2 rating come from... well, lets say the 70x2 is at 2ohm, and the amp does 50x2 @ 4 ohm. Well the manufacturer was refering to peak power being 100x2, and it is coming for companies to rate the peak power of an amp, or the peak power handling of a sub at 2, 2.5, or even 3 times the actual RMS value. So, 50 times 2 = 100... so 100x2 peak power.


its a scam, and is very common.
DHD in the stereo social class system is somewhere in the lower class. Don't run it below its rated ohm load, and expect half the power its rated at and you shouldn't be too disappointed with it. If you have it, go ahead and use it. Amps are spendy, run it till it dies, then grab a different one.

[Emerge]

Here are the specs I can find online:

• 2 Channel
• MOSFET Class 'A'
• 2 Ohm Stable
• 0.04% THD
• Frequency Response: 15 - 30,000 Hz
• Max. Power @ 2 Ohm: 200W x 2= 400W
• Bridgeable :160W x 1=160W
• Power @ 2 Ohm: 80W x 2 =160W
• Variable Low Pass Filter
• Power @ 4 Ohm: 50W x 2 =100W
• Variable High Pass Filter
• Low/High Level Input
• Multi Channel Function (2/1/2+l )
• 2-8 Ohm Capability
• Dimension: 11.8" (W) x 1.97" (H) x 7.87" (L)
• Channel Seperation 55dB
• Fuse 25 Amp

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Emerge

Here are the specs I can find online:
[*]Max. Power @ 2 Ohm: 200W x 2= 400W[*]Bridgeable :160W x 1=160W[*]Power @ 2 Ohm: 80W x 2 =160W[*]Power @ 4 Ohm: 50W x 2 =100W[*]Fuse 25 Amp[/LIST]

so... my rough guess would've been 25*7 = 175 bridge, they say 160bridged..
OR
87.5x2 @ 2ohm

Pretty close, so that amp most likely does put out the 80x2 or 50x2 that it is rated for.

50x2 isn't a huge amp by any means, it's decent for running a pair of door speakers, or an entry level 8,10, or 12" sub (as long as you don't expect it to get very loud).

[Emerge]

Would there be any way to get it to power all four door speakers? If not, I'm guessing the best thing is to run the larger rear speakers?

What is an example of an entry level sub?

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Emerge

Would there be any way to get it to power all four door speakers? If not, I'm guessing the best thing is to run the larger rear speakers?

What is an example of an entry level sub?

Entry level sub.... basically anything that costs around $100 or less for a 10" or 12". $100 will get you a fairly beefy 8" sub... tho its an 8" and won't be as loud as the 10" or 12" for the same price.

yeah, you could run two sets of doors speakers off that amp, however, you would lose your ability to adjust the front to back fader on your deck.

You'd go from giving 1 set of speakers 50watts each, to give two sets of speakers 40w each. It'd be noticeable louder, but not necessarily better.

The harder your amp has to work, the hotter it will run, and the shorter you can expect it's life to be.... Supposed to be 2ohm stable, so I wouldn't worry about it, unless you are concerned with the quality of the amp, or you run into issues with it popping fuses or turning off randomly.

[_S7V7N_]

I had the 1600 Watt DHD and sold it for 50 bux, That thing i bought used about three years ago, it never gave me any probs, it is a lower end brand and your bass output is going to be " okay ".

As far as Entry level you could probably check the Sunday paper and see what BestBuy has on special that week, they sometimes run some Pioneer subs which are like 50 bux buy one get one free or something, them will be around 150 watts rms. If not they sometimes have an amp and sub combo.

[Emerge]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Taln, I've read in numerous threads that you are currently running 8" subs. What type are you running? If I remember right, you said they were optimal because they still do put out plenty of bass and volume for your individual needs. Am I right? Or, were there other reasons on top of that?

I'm starting to get ideas of what I can do with this. I don't think selling it is an option because it goes for about $60 brand new right now on the net, so I probably couldn't sell it for more than $30 - $40.

[severous01]

if you want clarity you're going to have to pay for it. higher end amps produce more power, are clearer, less distortion, less heat, and wont make your headlights dim.

i'm going with kenwood amp, excelon series, and an excelon sub. 8" shallow. i'm trying to find someone to build a decent box under my pas seat. i'll put the amp under back seat, and upgrade the door speakers with some dB+ from polk. i think it'll be enough for me

[Emerge]

True, you get what you pay for.

[Emerge]

What do you guys think of these speakers to replace the OEMs? I have the coupe with 2 dash speakers, 2 door speakers, and 2 rear mounted speakers. These speakers correspond with the OEM sizes. It should make installation easier I think.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSG1...3R.html?tp=105

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086022...si.html?tp=105

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_099SE69...00.html?tp=105

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Emerge

Thanks for the advice guys.

Taln, I've read in numerous threads that you are currently running 8" subs. What type are you running? If I remember right, you said they were optimal because they still do put out plenty of bass and volume for your individual needs. Am I right? Or, were there other reasons on top of that?

I'm starting to get ideas of what I can do with this. I don't think selling it is an option because it goes for about $60 brand new right now on the net, so I probably couldn't sell it for more than $30 - $40.

Bout 6 years ago I was making a system for the GF... She wanted something very small, so I picked up two Tangband 740 8" subs from partsexpress, at the time they were like $40 a pop... price has gone up a little since then. For the price they go for (around $50-60), I believe they are the best 8" sub you can buy. The GF never got the box & subs because we broke up about 3 days before the box was done painting.

hooking it up with dual 8's won't get crazy loud, not even if they are ported. If you want to simply add a smallest amount of bass you'll be fine with dual 8's... but if you want a lil bump in the trunk... we'll... the 8's would be fine for a month, then you'd get greedy and want more... Thats just how bass works... as soon as you get some, you want more... it's like money.

For most people on this forum, i'd recommend a single 10" sub in a small sealed box. with around 150-200rms.

I've always been a fan of infinity for a nice low cost decent performance speaker. I ran the green 2000 and before Kappa's, I've also installed the refrence components in a gf's car.

[Emerge]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

Bout 6 years ago I was making a system for the GF... She wanted something very small, so I picked up two Tangband 740 8" subs from partsexpress, at the time they were like $40 a pop... price has gone up a little since then. For the price they go for (around $50-60), I believe they are the best 8" sub you can buy. The GF never got the box & subs because we broke up about 3 days before the box was done painting.

hooking it up with dual 8's won't get crazy loud, not even if they are ported. If you want to simply add a smallest amount of bass you'll be fine with dual 8's... but if you want a lil bump in the trunk... we'll... the 8's would be fine for a month, then you'd get greedy and want more... Thats just how bass works... as soon as you get some, you want more... it's like money.

Don't get me started on women dude, lol. At least you got yourself a decent little set up though.

For most people on this forum, i'd recommend a single 10" sub in a small sealed box. with around 150-200rms.

How do you feel about this sub in regards to your advice?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1L1...10.html?tp=112

I've always been a fan of infinity for a nice low cost decent performance speaker. I ran the green 2000 and before Kappa's, I've also installed the refrence components in a gf's car

I'll have to do some research on those.


I'm having trouble deciding whether I should try to run the speakers on the aftermarket receiver alone and have my current amp run the sub, or getting a new amp to run the sub. I know I won't want an insane system, and i was almost just satisfied in my truck with just an aftermarket receiver and no other upgrades.

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Emerge

Don't get me started on women dude, lol. At least you got yourself a decent little set up though.



How do you feel about this sub in regards to your advice?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1L1...10.html?tp=112



I'll have to do some research on those.


I'm having trouble deciding whether I should try to run the speakers on the aftermarket receiver alone and have my current amp run the sub, or getting a new amp to run the sub. I know I won't want an insane system, and i was almost just satisfied in my truck with just an aftermarket receiver and no other upgrades.

I have no experience with fosgate subs since about 2001... I ran some '98 XLC 12's, and a single Punch 8 as well. As far as that box/sub combo... ehhh, box is only 5/8" MDF..... would like to see it be 3/4"... but whatever... I'm sure it'll be fine for what you want. They with it is that it is easy, it won't give you anything spectacular, but it's about as easy as subs come in terms of installation.

As for buying a 2nd amp..... there are two big benefits to buying a second amp... so you can run your door speakers off an amp.

1) More power
2) a crossover, which will help reduce distortion, and if used properly, can allow you to listen to your music at louder volumes without increasing the risk of damaging them.

[Emerge]

So, if I were to get another amp you would recommend one for the speakers? I have six speakers inside my car, should I try to find a 6 channel amp? What types of specs should I be looking for?

[talnlnky]

I will assume when you say 6 speakers that you mean you have tweets + mids up front, plus another set in the back.

if that is the case, no you don't need a 6 channel amp, what you want is a 4 channel amp (as long as you have a crossover on those front tweets & mids).

I'll get flamed by this by many people in car audio, but honestly, there is a lot of controversy about the sound quality of amplifiers. Richard Clark, one of the most experienced guys in car audio put up a bet a long time ago that nobody could point out a specific amplifier 100% of the time in a double blind test... I put something like $10,000 up to back up his claim..... nobody cashed in on that deal.

the difference in cost I believe is mostly due to the following...
1) Cost of parts (quality of parts or proprietary & fancy heatsinks/casings)
2) brand name
3) type of amplifier technology used (class A/B, D, T, hybrid)

[Emerge]

I always suspected that, but I never had any evidence to validate my intuition.

I actually have 6 speakers in my car. I have 4" in the front right under the windshield, 6 1/2" on the doors, and 6x9s in the rear.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SIqPuxt...H-P4800MP.html

General
Chassis Size Code	IEJ
CEA-2006 Compliant	No
RMS Power Output	22 watts
Peak Output	50 watts
RMS Power Bandwidth	50-15kHz
Preamp Outputs	6-channel
Sub Preamp Outputs	Yes
Switchable Rear Preamp Outputs	Yes
Preamp Voltage	2.2 volts
Display Color	Multicolor
Key Button Color	Green
EQ Bands	3
Sound Shaping Type	Easy EQ
Wireless Remote	Yes
Steering Wheel Control Compatible	---
Security	Detachable face
Flip-Down Face	Yes
Parts Warranty	1 Year
Labor Warranty	1 Year
Expandability
iPod Connection/Control	---
AUX Input	Rear
USB Input	---
Memory Card Slot	No
A/V Inputs	No
Bluetooth Compatible	---
Satellite Radio Ready	Both
HD Radio	Optional
Navigation	---
Changer Control	Yes
Tuner
Tuner Type	Supertuner IIID
FM Sensitivity	8 dBf
FM Presets	18
AM Presets	6
European Tuning	No
Seek/Scan	Seek
Radio Data System	No
Playback
CD Frequency Response	5-20kHz
CD Signal-to-Noise	94 dB
MP3 Playback	Yes
WMA Playback	Yes
AAC Playback	---
DVD Playback	No

I've had this receiver for some time now, decent enough? I might replace it because the display isn't working properly. But, I'm not sure what I want yet. I'm thinking a double din with NAV and DVD if money allows.