What kind of subwoofer should I get??

[yarislover285]

I have a 2007 yaris sedan and I was thinking about putting a sound system in but I dont know what kind of subwoofer to get. Any suggestion???

[Alien Mantis]

How about THIS one?

[centrysis]

I can't believe that coming from you AM. That's not a type R.

[Alien Mantis]

You have no idea how hard it was for me NOT to post a pic of a new Type-R.

[yarislover285]

wow! as much as I would love to put that in my car. I was thinking something a little smaller. I have a rockford p500-2 amp

[bzinn 1]

Well a couple of questions first.......

How much money do you wnat to spend.......

What type of music will get played most often.....

Sealed or ported box........

SPL or SQ setup or a bit of both.....yes it can be done...

Do you plan on sound deadening the car.......

How many watts.......

Can you tune an amp......

Are you gonna run amped comps with the sub or just deck powered speakers.....

That is a good starting point to figure out what direction to go in.....

[swidd]

I just put a Type-R 1042D in a sealed $30 walmart-/scosche-box, amped by the 300W PDX-5 at 2ohms, and it is amazing, in my opinion. I can't imagine why anyone would need more rumbling and rattling than what that thing is capable of. I turn the bass boost down just to hear anything else.

[pennyracer]

thats a jack hammer sub

[centrysis]

You can go to woofersetc.com or sonicelectronix.com for a little info and pricing.

[RedHatch08]

Originally Posted by bzinn 1

Well a couple of questions first.......

How much money do you wnat to spend.......

What type of music will get played most often.....

Sealed or ported box........

SPL or SQ setup or a bit of both.....yes it can be done...

Do you plan on sound deadening the car.......

How many watts.......

Can you tune an amp......

Are you gonna run amped comps with the sub or just deck powered speakers.....

That is a good starting point to figure out what direction to go in.....

Since the Yaris is such a small car, you should also ask yourself how much space you want to give up, and where you want to position the sub.

I'm going through this process right now myself, trying to figure out what stereo gear to put in.

I'm personally a fan of sealed boxes when it comes to in-car use. Sealed boxes save space over ported, and with the effect of cabin gain, can get plenty loud.

This is especially true if you're careful with your selection of components. With subs, try and look for something with a high sensitivity/efficiency rating. This can be kind of hard because lots of companies flat out lie about this spec, but keep it in mind. Speakers with higher sensitivity play louder given the same amount of amplifier power. This will help you get the most output out of whatever amp you use.

[RedHatch08]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

You have no idea how hard it was for me NOT to post a pic of a new Type-R.

Yeah Type-Rs are nice. Here's a pic of an "old" Type-R 10 in a sealed box I made. I still might re-use this in my Yaris once I get a HU and amp installed, cause it's a pretty nice sub, and would be more than enough for daily listening.

I'm actually considering going even smaller though, just because space is so limited. I've been looking at some of the 8" subs out there, and with some you can get away with sealed boxes of around 0.3 cubic feet, which is tiny. Plus I'm not looking to blow the doors off the car, so a properly done 8" sub and box should fit my needs just fine.

In terms of brands though, I've had good experience with Alpine. If you went that route I doubt you'd regret it.

[Alien Mantis]

Originally Posted by RedHatch08

With subs, try and look for something with a high sensitivity/efficiency rating. This can be kind of hard because lots of companies flat out lie about this spec, but keep it in mind. Speakers with higher sensitivity play louder given the same amount of amplifier power. This will help you get the most output out of whatever amp you use.

YES... and NO.

Sensitivity is important when selecting component or coax speakers that you plan to run on lower wattage.
If you are going to amp them, sensitivity is not as important.

Sensitivity ratings on subs are almost pointless.
Subs need power. Sensitivity is typically measured at 1watt/1 meter with a 1khz signal. Subs don't play a 1khz signal. We cross them over WAY below that frequency.
Furthermore, there is no sub I know of that is designed to run on 1watt of power. So what is the point?
Certain subs are more efficient than others, and if you plan on running a small amp to your sub(s), then you need to research which subs run better on less power.
Infinity Reference subs are a decent choice if you want to run lower power. ( 200-300 watts RMS for each sub )
If you want to run a sub like a JL W7 or an Alpine Type-X, you better have a big amp. ( 600-1,000 watts RMS for each sub )

The Infinity sub on 300 watts will not even come close to the JL W7 on 800 watts. Subs need power. Power translates into output. The more power, the more output.
How much "output" do you need? That is what you have to decide.

Everything is a trade-off. More bass = more amplifier power = more drain on the alternator = more/bigger subs = big enclosures = big pricetag

If one 8" sub in a .4^3ft box with 100 watts would make my car windows vibrate, we would have to rewrite the laws of physics!

[Alien Mantis]

Originally Posted by RedHatch08

Yeah Type-Rs are nice. Here's a pic of an "old" Type-R 10 in a sealed box I made. I still might re-use this in my Yaris once I get a HU and amp installed, cause it's a pretty nice sub, and would be more than enough for daily listening.
I'm actually considering going even smaller though, just because space is so limited. I've been looking at some of the 8" subs out there, and with some you can get away with sealed boxes of around 0.3 cubic feet, which is tiny. Plus I'm not looking to blow the doors off the car, so a properly done 8" sub and box should fit my needs just fine.

That Type-R looks like a 2nd gen, before they went to the multi-rib HAMR surround. I used to have an old 12" Type-R like the one in your photo.

Be careful on that 8" in a sealed box. You won't get much output.
You could run two 8's, or maybe one 10.
Two 8's will probably take up more space than running a single 10.
( assuming you are going to box mount your sub(s) )

I seen installs where people put a pair of 8's in their rear doors, cut a hole in the door panel, and installed a mesh grill over them.
This works okay, but you need to do some tricky fab work to seal off the location of those subs. You don't want to let them "free-air" in the door.
And many locations are simply not deep enough to accommodate the sub.
So you choose a shallow mount 8 that has a short stroke and there goes your output.

Everything is a trade-off.
No "free lunch" in this business.

[Alien Mantis]

Originally Posted by pennyracer

thats a jack hammer sub

Yes sir.

The Jackhammer is the textbook example of "going too far".

No single sub should ever weigh that much, cost that much, or need that much power to push it.
It is a sub that simply never should have been built in the first place.

Instead of running one Jackhammer, I would run four 12" Type-R's on 2,500 watts+.

The Jackhammer is around $10,000 I think I read someplace?

Four Type-R's and a 2,500 watt amp might cost me around $1,000?

You get the point.

[RedHatch08]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

YES... and NO.

Sensitivity is important when selecting component or coax speakers that you plan to run on lower wattage.
If you are going to amp them, sensitivity is not as important.

Sensitivity ratings on subs are almost pointless.
Subs need power. Sensitivity is typically measured at 1watt/1 meter with a 1khz signal. Subs don't play a 1khz signal. We cross them over WAY below that frequency.
Furthermore, there is no sub I know of that is designed to run on 1watt of power. So what is the point?
Certain subs are more efficient than others, and if you plan on running a small amp to your sub(s), then you need to research which subs run better on less power.
Infinity Reference subs are a decent choice if you want to run lower power. ( 200-300 watts RMS for each sub )
If you want to run a sub like a JL W7 or an Alpine Type-X, you better have a big amp. ( 600-1,000 watts RMS for each sub )

The Infinity sub on 300 watts will not even come close to the JL W7 on 800 watts. Subs need power. Power translates into output. The more power, the more output.
How much "output" do you need? That is what you have to decide.

Everything is a trade-off. More bass = more amplifier power = more drain on the alternator = more/bigger subs = big enclosures = big pricetag

If one 8" sub in a .4^3ft box with 100 watts would make my car windows vibrate, we would have to rewrite the laws of physics!

Yeah I know what you're saying. For the record, I used to be a certified installer for both car (MECP) and home (CEDIA) electronics.

The topic of sensitivity specs is one of those sort of "grey areas". There are differing opinions as to whether it really matters or not. Like I said, lots of companies lie anyways, so it's hard to really judge in many cases.

Many people happen to believe though that sensitivity does indeed matter for subwoofers too. So ALL THINGS BEING EQUAL, if you have an 85 dB rated sub and a 92 dB sub, would you not choose the more efficient one? I would.

You're entitled to believe that it doesn't matter for subs just because they test them at 1W/1M at 1kHz. They only test amplifiers at one frequency too. That doesn't represent real music whatsoever. It's not supposed to though. The testing is done to gain a reference point, not to represent real world use.

[H3LlIoN]

Originally Posted by bzinn 1

Well a couple of questions first.......

How much money do you wnat to spend.......

What type of music will get played most often.....

SPL/SQL?

These three are the only necessary questions. the rest of that list will be determined from these three.

[goku87]

you could always stick this beast in a yaris:

http://www.diycable.com/main/product...3b6d9895a54c9b

[sqcomp]

How about a single sealed 10" off that easy 4 Ohm bridged load?

I know one woofer that I've had a lot of success with similar output of your amplifier would be an ID10 D2.



...and you thought I'd suggest a Hertz woofer!