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Old 09-29-2009, 11:05 AM   #19
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Anywhere from 1 to 2 degrees of negative camber up front should give a nice street set-up. You can purchase non-adjustable camber bolts from rockauto.com very cheap. I'm not sure how much, if any adjustment you can make without the use of camber bolts. While 0 degrees toe-in is preferred for performance, a very slight toe-in (1/16") will make the car track much better at highway speeds.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:28 PM   #20
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Anywhere from 1 to 2 degrees of negative camber up front should give a nice street set-up. You can purchase non-adjustable camber bolts from rockauto.com very cheap. I'm not sure how much, if any adjustment you can make without the use of camber bolts. While 0 degrees toe-in is preferred for performance, a very slight toe-in (1/16") will make the car track much better at highway speeds.
Toe out helps with speeds, not in. It seems like thats what you meant tho.
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:13 PM   #21
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we need a real 1 incher on the rear...
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:21 PM   #22
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stock set up should produce -1 degree if adjusted for that.
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:28 PM   #23
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im talking bout an inch swaybar
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:30 PM   #24
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we need a real 1 incher on the rear...
Thanks but no thanks...
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:41 PM   #25
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why do you change the camber bolts? what do they have different from stock?
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:12 PM   #26
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you can easily get more +/- camber with new ones
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddongbap View Post
Toe out helps with speeds, not in. It seems like thats what you meant tho.
no you're wrong

toe in = high speed stability.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:55 PM   #28
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Toe out helps with speeds, not in. It seems like thats what you meant tho.
Tamago is correct, toe out improves turn-in, not tracking straight. Toe-in basically points the wheels towards each other, so the car is "trying" to steer to the center, toe-out has both wheels pulling away from each other, or constantly "fighting" each other. Whichever way you favor, the car will move more quickly in that direction.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:02 PM   #29
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why do you change the camber bolts? what do they have different from stock?
Camber bolts, particularly the nice ones like Garm sells - have an eccentric lobe on the shank (like a camshaft) where it fits through the strut bracket. By adjusting the position of the lobe, you tilt the bottom of the strut "in" or "out" from vertical, and the hub/wheel goes with it. Viola! - camber!

The stock bolt you replace is exactly that; a regular bolt that doesn't have adjustability.
I hope that helps.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:08 AM   #30
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no you're wrong

toe in = high speed stability.
I am corrected.
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:26 AM   #31
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Hi all thanks for all the help, so first a get the yaris aligned, then i do the rear sway bar! what will the front upper strut do? will it help?

as far as the alignment what is the factory setup? i think the garage guy will know but better if i know so i'll tell him thanks all for the help
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:01 AM   #32
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Hi all thanks for all the help, so first a get the yaris aligned, then i do the rear sway bar! what will the front upper strut do? will it help?

as far as the alignment what is the factory setup? i think the garage guy will know but better if i know so i'll tell him thanks all for the help
you don't want the factory setup. you want -1.5 degrees camber up front, 0 toe.

the rear you can't mess with without shims.

go read the "ultimate suspension guide" before you throw money away on a front upper strut bar.
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