No Hi Beam Indicator after HID installed

[bobolinko]

It's really simple and cheap. 1 fifty cent resistor, and short piece of wire to fix the problem. One end of the resistor goes to the Low-Beam pin, and the other end goes to 12v. That's all !! and won't take more than 15 minutes to do the fix. Now, my car's indicator goed blue when the brights are on.

[CTScott]

Nice. By the way, the center terminal on the connector is the high beam circuit, not the low.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by PK198105

a 1/4 Watt resistor.....nice

Are you saying that the 1/4 W rating is too low?

If so, the resistor is only carrying the current to drive the high beam indicator LED, not current through a bulb. When the HID kit is installed one of the factory bulb sockets sits not connected, so he is jumping power to the beam indicator through that socket, rather than doing it at the cluster, like I showed in another thread.

[bobolinko]

My 12v must be quite different in Hawaii......

I connect 12v thru a 10K 1/4w resitor DIRECTLY to GROUND and it just gets a teenie tiny bit warm.....

Oh well..... Hawaiian 1/4 watt resistors are just plain TOUGH, I guess.

BTW: here's a Calculation of the circuit 12v through 10K

12 ----- Voltage or volt E or V = volts V
0.0012- Amperage or current I = amperes, amps A
10000 - Resistivity or resistance R = ohms Ω
0.0144- Wattage or power P = watts W

less than 2 hundredths of a watt.... not NEAR 1/4 watt. (Direct short to ground)

BTW, the Yaris and Scion are basically the same and the project was for my Scion. (which might be the reason for the bulb connector hi/low difference) I just thought I'd try this forum to get some help, and 2 people gave me information that enabled me to solve a very small, but vexing problem, to me.

Thanks Again Guys!


MiniTRD and CTScott U Guys ROCK !!!

[bobolinko]

[Dangerous Dave]

I found this post about curing the inoperative high beam indicator after installing an HID kit. Driving me crazy not having the high beam indicator working. You are correct, that is the ground circuit for the low beam, not high beam, and it's the same no matter where you are as all H4 bulbs are the same. Crazy overcomplicated circuit! I tried jumping right across the connector since there's a constant 12v present there, but the ground circuit is open as long as the dimmer switch isn't in the "high" or "flash" positions. Since I never leave my high beams on, there shouldn't be any concerns about parasitic draw. However, when I use a 10k 1/4 watt resistor, the indicator still doesn't work. But when I stuck in a 1 ohm 10 watt resistor I had laying around, the indicator works, but the resistor gets really hot, really fast! Thoughts??

Here's a couple pics of my "Hot Lava" 5-spd Release Series Scion xD.






!

D Dave

[Dangerous Dave]

Ok, problem solved with the help of an electrical engineer from another forum I'm on. The 10k 1/4 watt resistor would not turn on the high beam indicator on my xD. What DID work for me was wiring two 330 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in series and connecting them across the vacant headlight socket between the top center terminal and the one on the right (as viewed from the bulb side of the connector) which has constant 12v. My high beam indicator now works as it should and no excess heat from the resistors as you're only powering the LED indicator. Just thought I'd throw that in there in case anybody runs into the same problem I did. BTW, my HID kit was from DDM tuning.

Later,
D Dave

[derickveliz2]

Any pictures would help me how to do it, sorry I'm very naive in the electricity wold.

Thanks

[bobolinko]

IMHO, the 660 ohm (2 330 in series) is a little too low, and that indicator's LED will be a little too bright and very close to the max it can handle. It will most likely fail after a short while due to the overload voltage that it would be fed with 660 ohms and 12v. I would try it with the 10K (that is 10,000) ohm resistaor first, and if it works, use that value, rather than the 660. the picture is in the first post above. That is a pictire of the un-used ORIGINAL socket on the passenger side that you removed from the halogen bulb that came with the car. You might try just going from the middle (the one with the red line) to either of the left or right contacts to seee if yours will work that way. The picture is of the socket in your hand, with the wires going away from you (they'd be behind the socket as you look at it). All you'd need to do is crimp or solder, a spade lug to the resistor's lead, one on each end, and poke those in the hole you want to try to make the connection. Spade lugs, can be bought from radio shack for next to nothing. http://www.elecdirect.com/catalog/64...f4be53b9b.aspx It's the blue one on the right. I would test first, using the 10k resistor (50 cents from Radio Shack). I am the one that developed this simple under the hood fix, and every one that has done it said it worked. I'm SURE yours will too. Good Luck, and Aloha From Hawaii !!

[marcus]

does the resistor work if i tap on the harness.. my bixenon kit came as plug and play on both side.. no relay required..also came built in with hi beam relay on each side. i dont have an empty socket to run the resistor..

[bobolinko]

Tell me, Marcus,
Do you have high AND low beams ?
are the BOTH HID, or is one a halogen bulb ?
so you have Ballasts on both sides, I presume?
too bad you're in Canada. I'd call you to explain.....

[marcus]

i got one low/hi hid bulb that flips for high beam.. i have to disconnect a wire on my drl so this thing wont flicker.. dont really mind not seing the high beam indicator but it would be nice to have it..

[bobolinko]

It prolly would not kill anything if you use the 10k resistor connected to the MIDDLE pin of the socket that feeds the bulb, but I would go to the 12v power that is feeding the ballast for the 12v source, just so that you do not accidentaly feed the boosted voltage to the tiny led in the dash. It should work fine. Do a test first, by bending a lead of the resistor into a tight "u" and hook it to the MIDDLE pin on the socket, between the bulb and the socket and pushing the socket back tight to the bulb to hold the resistor there. (You could use painters tape to temporarily hold it, but make sure it does not move) then connect using a jumper, the other resistor lead to 12v and see if the hi-beam works. It needs to be tied to the ballast 12v feed only because the hi beam indicator will always light if the hi beams were on, if the source of power was not turned off when the lights were turned off. Tying the ind resistor to that ballast power takes care of the "turning off" of the indicator power, if you follow what I'm trying to tell you. I know running without the indicator is not a big deal to most, but I am a perfectionist, and I get "bothered" by small things that are not "right". If the test connection works, please be sure to make secure and insulated connections for your wiring project, and by all means, do not leave the socket hooked resistor as a permanent solution. I suggest using the passenger side to do all of this, cause that side affords the most room/convenience and all of my circuit testing was done using the passenger side socket circuit.

[marcus]

i was just thinking the same thing maybe ill just buy the resistor and insert it behind the socket where the wire is feeding...it should work..we shall see..

[derickveliz2]

I just would like to add something....


One night going home I turn lights to high and the blue indicator turn "ON" very soft

. It only happened once! Though

.

[marcus]

resistor insert should work..

[bobolinko]

Originally Posted by marcus

resistor insert should work..

Well... ?

[marcus]

Originally Posted by bobolinko

Well... ?

dont have time to do it yet..ill try this weekend and get them resistor..keep you updated