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Old 07-17-2020, 04:56 PM   #37
Basmii
 
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The coolant tube on my Corolla engine had an extra outlet.I assume for the auto trans cooler? I Picked up a XD version, but you could probably plug it somehow also.
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Old 07-17-2020, 05:25 PM   #38
06YarisRS
 
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Where on the car are those tubes? Are they from the top of the engine, attached to the head? The Auto trans cooler is just in the bottom of the rad with rubber inlet and outlet hoses. Is that tubing part of the throttle body heater/cooling circuit? The other aluminum tubing on top of the engine is for vacuum to the brake booster, afaik.
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Old 07-18-2020, 03:34 PM   #39
Basmii
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Where on the car are those tubes? Are they from the top of the engine, attached to the head? The Auto trans cooler is just in the bottom of the rad with rubber inlet and outlet hoses. Is that tubing part of the throttle body heater/cooling circuit? The other aluminum tubing on top of the engine is for vacuum to the brake booster, afaik.

Its the one that feeds the heater hose/throttle body. It runs across the trans side of the motor.
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Old 07-18-2020, 03:40 PM   #40
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Pic of the XD tube installed.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:16 PM   #41
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This project had to take a back seat to work stuff for a bit but I managed to get it the swap done this weekend. If you disassemble the front end of the car getting the old motor out is not a big deal. I left the short driver's side axle attached to the transmission until it was out because there is not a lot of clearance to a prybar on it under the car. Beyond that I don't think I did anything different than the others on here..
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:20 PM   #42
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Speedometer wires from the old harness.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:23 PM   #43
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Pink black and white
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:28 PM   #44
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New engine in without issue.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:34 PM   #45
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I never could find a bell flange to fit the Wpnr header so I ended up buying one for a Honda and drilling new holes that a narrower. This allowed me to use one of the wider holes to mount a triangle bracket that I build to support the header.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:36 PM   #46
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New exhaust center section.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:45 PM   #47
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Engine fired up immediately. Runs fine but is way too loud. I may need buy a bigger muffler rather than reusing the magnaflow I had on it before.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:53 PM   #48
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Ok so I'm having problems now. The engine runs but nothing else works. No power steering and the P/S and ABS dash lights are both on. Tried driving it to the end of my street and the dash lights were flickering. My battery voltage is only about 11.8v but no fault codes on my scan tool. Maybe I left a ground wire off or something....?
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Old 10-27-2020, 06:46 AM   #49
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Is that 11.8v while the engine is running?
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Old 10-27-2020, 08:21 AM   #50
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basmii View Post
New exhaust center section.
OMG, that's a thing of beauty!
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Old 10-27-2020, 10:38 AM   #51
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basmii View Post
Engine fired up immediately. Runs fine but is way too loud. I may need buy a bigger muffler rather than reusing the magnaflow I had on it before.
I originally went with a single catalytic converter and a DynoMax VT muffler but it was really harsh in the cabin. Added a DynoMax Race Bullet where the OEM resonator was and it really mellowed it out. Looks great so far!
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:02 AM   #52
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2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basmii View Post
Ok so I'm having problems now. The engine runs but nothing else works. No power steering and the P/S and ABS dash lights are both on. Tried driving it to the end of my street and the dash lights were flickering. My battery voltage is only about 11.8v but no fault codes on my scan tool. Maybe I left a ground wire off or something....?
Might be the alternator is bad. You should be seeing at least 13.5V when running, up to 14.5 at high RPM.

The flickering lights is odd, might be a loose connection on the ECU wire harness? What else did you change between the engine and the cluster?

P/S light is strange, I haven't seen that one. Is the P/S fuse good? All the wires under the dash connected correctly? The P/S relies on ABS for the speed signal to adjust the amount of assist, could be that the ABS light indicates a problem that's putting the power steering into limp mode. Do an ABS diagnostic and see what codes you get from it--jumper pins 4 and 13 on the OBDII port and read the flashing lights sequence on the (security?) light.
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Old 10-27-2020, 02:58 PM   #53
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Think I got the alternator issue sorted. Went thru and cleaned up all the ground points with some fine sand paper and it is charging properly now. P/S and ABS lights are still on. I think I made a mistake with the speed sensor wiring.I have a dtc code for a circuit malfunction. Does this look correct?
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:24 PM   #54
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basmii
Think I got the alternator issue sorted. Went thru and cleaned up all the ground points with some fine sand paper and it is charging properly now.
Good deal!

Quote:
P/S and ABS lights are still on.
Run the ABS diagnostics test and see what blink codes you get.

Quote:
I think I made a mistake with the speed sensor wiring.I have a dtc code for a circuit malfunction. Does this look correct?
Looks correct to me, matches my documentation on adding those wires. Make sure that they're not shorted anywhere and are pinned correctly on the sensor end as well:
* Pin 1 = Black
* Pin 2 = White w/Black stripe
* Pin 3 = Pink

Let's get you rollin!

Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 10-27-2020 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Wrong pins on the sensor end
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