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Old 08-13-2020, 01:26 PM   #1
ern-diz
 
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Axle Seal Issues

Hey YarisWorld brethren - I've been having an issue with my driver's side, transmission side axle seal. The OEM seal gave out and I replaced it with a new seal from Toyota. A couple short test drives didn't produce a drop of trans fluid but yesterday, a longer drive had it leaking out again. It's a little disappointing because it looked like we had the new seal in really nicely.

I'm going to do the job again and to that end, have started searching the forum for any tips/tricks, like depth specs for the seal. While I do that, and search other sources online (going to try and find a Toyota resource on performing the job), I thought I'd drop a post here in the DIY in case anyone had any nuggets of advice they'd care to offer.

Thanks!
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Old 08-13-2020, 06:59 PM   #2
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Yeah, I've seen the seal surface on cv axles that are under sized. Have you replaced that axle in the past?
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Old 08-14-2020, 05:27 PM   #3
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Yeah, I've seen the seal surface on cv axles that are under sized. Have you replaced that axle in the past?
Hey, thanks for the reply. No, it's the original, factory axle. About 84k miles on it. Having spoken to a service tech over in the UK that follows me on Instagram, I've learned that there is a depth spec for the seal going into the transmission casing. The image below is what he provided me. I've also since learned from former super user, Tom A., that the point where the axle mates with the seal can get worn after many miles, so pushing the seal a bit further in than the OEM spec is sometimes advisable. Hoping to get it buttoned up properly this next time around and am still very open to any suggestions from anyone willing to offer any.
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File Type: jpg Screenshot_20200814-025105_Instagram.jpg (136.0 KB, 137 views)
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Old 08-14-2020, 09:47 PM   #4
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Way back when, my mechanic had to pull the axle to rotate the engine forward to remove my exhaust manifold. The seal was slightly damaged when the axle went back in. I had a continuous drip and a bit faster, of course, when the atf was hot. I don't think it's an uncommon occurrence to nick them or slightly damage them on install. I picked up an OE one and he installed it and I had no more leaks.
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:30 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Way back when, my mechanic had to pull the axle to rotate the engine forward to remove my exhaust manifold. The seal was slightly damaged when the axle went back in. I had a continuous drip and a bit faster, of course, when the atf was hot. I don't think it's an uncommon occurrence to nick them or slightly damage them on install. I picked up an OE one and he installed it and I had no more leaks.
Well, here's hoping the second time's the charm. Would hate to replace the seal again and have it leak on me a third time.
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Old 08-18-2020, 02:25 PM   #6
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Well, here's hoping the second time's the charm. Would hate to replace the seal again and have it leak on me a third time.
Yes, I will have my mother-in-law send out prayers for your axle seal. I personally don't put a lot of stock in the power of prayer, but it seems to have worked wonders for us in a few circumstances. Other than that, good luck, man!
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Old 08-20-2020, 07:52 PM   #7
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Yes, I will have my mother-in-law send out prayers for your axle seal. I personally don't put a lot of stock in the power of prayer, but it seems to have worked wonders for us in a few circumstances. Other than that, good luck, man!
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Old 08-24-2020, 04:19 PM   #8
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Update on this - there seems to be some confusion around how to install this seal. I was provided some pictures of the depth specs for this seal (posted above) by a mechanic in the UK who personally owns a variety of Toyotas (MK4 Supra, Starlet, MKI Yaris). Those images show the seal being installed with an SST tool, and there are other threads on the forum indicating an SST tool is required. Despite all that, it doesn't appear that using a tool is the end all method.

There is a sleeve area on the transmission casing where the axle seal sits. Just behind that space is a step/lip. You do not want to push the seal in beyond that lip and you can get the seal into the sleeve evenly by hand relatively easily. Using a tool, like a large socket or bearing press, seems to increase the chances of both damaging the new seal and pushing it past the lip in the transmission casing. In our experience, the hand method provides more control with less risk of damage to the new seal. Without having seen the official SST tool, I assume it has a stopper/safety that pushes the seal in to the desired depth and won't let you push it further, but the SST tool has been discontinued and the part number now calls up a bearing press tool, which does not have a stopper/safety.

Pics of the transmission casing and hand pressed in seal below. Several test drives later and not a drop of gear oil on my garage floor. A former forum member I consulted with while doing the job also found this YouTube video of the seal being installed on C50 transmission in another Toyota model. That video also claims that simply pressing the seal in by hand is the way to go. Lastly, I know a mechanic who we called while doing the job who also said the seal just sits in the transmission casing sleeve and can be pushed in evenly by hand. Hope this helps someone someday!
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File Type: jpg Axle Seal Trans Casing.jpg (70.7 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg Axle Seal In Trans Casing.jpg (61.2 KB, 90 views)
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Old 08-24-2020, 10:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Update on this - there seems to be some confusion around how to install this seal. I was provided some pictures of the depth specs for this seal (posted above) by a mechanic in the UK who personally owns a variety of Toyotas (MK4 Supra, Starlet, MKI Yaris). Those images show the seal being installed with an SST tool, and there are other threads on the forum indicating an SST tool is required. Despite all that, it doesn't appear that using a tool is the end all method.

There is a sleeve area on the transmission casing where the axle seal sits. Just behind that space is a step/lip. You do not want to push the seal in beyond that lip and you can get the seal into the sleeve evenly by hand relatively easily. Using a tool, like a large socket or bearing press, seems to increase the chances of both damaging the new seal and pushing it past the lip in the transmission casing. In our experience, the hand method provides more control with less risk of damage to the new seal. Without having seen the official SST tool, I assume it has a stopper/safety that pushes the seal in to the desired depth and won't let you push it further, but the SST tool has been discontinued and the part number now calls up a bearing press tool, which does not have a stopper/safety.

Pics of the transmission casing and hand pressed in seal below. Several test drives later and not a drop of gear oil on my garage floor. A former forum member I consulted with while doing the job also found this YouTube video of the seal being installed on C50 transmission in another Toyota model. That video also claims that simply pressing the seal in by hand is the way to go. Lastly, I know a mechanic who we called while doing the job who also said the seal just sits in the transmission casing sleeve and can be pushed in evenly by hand. Hope this helps someone someday!


Awesome information! I wonder if it's the same for the automatic. I haven't checked it yet, but one of the reasons my new red RS failed inspection was due to the passenger side axle. I will likely have a seal on standby.

A question for you, Ernie..have you changed your gear box oil? It's one of the things on my maintenance list.
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Old 08-25-2020, 03:31 PM   #10
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A question for you, Ernie..have you changed your gear box oil? It's one of the things on my maintenance list.
Don't remind me LOL! In the very beginning, when I was pretty sure the axle seal wasn't leaking, I did a flush with $40 worth of Royal Purple gear oil (bad idea). When that started spilling out and I knew I had a bad seal, we changed the seal and I dropped another $40 worth of Royal Purp in it. Then the axle ate that new seal, which is what led to changing the seal the second time, along with the axle itself. This time around, I dropped some cheapo, $6 Valvoline gear oil in it just to make sure all is well. Wasn't about to drop another $40+ of Royal Purple in it just to have it puke out on me for a third time. Now that I'm multiple drives in with no leak, my plan is to dump the Valvoline and once again throw some good stuff in it. Maybe Amsoil, or Royal Purple again.

Prior to the axle seal issues, I hadn't considered changing it. You'll find threads and posts across the forum where people have differing opinions about whether or not it's necessary. The job is easy enough, though. One bolt to drain, one bolt to fill. The most challenging part, which wasn't all that challenging at all, was Frankenstein'ing two funnels into one so it was long enough to reach the fill hole from the top of the engine. I bought the longest regular funnel Pep Boys had, along with one of those funnels that has a bendable tube and close valve on it. I pulled the tube off the second funnel and attached to the longer funnel. That gave me the length I needed to fill from above. We didn't want to mess around with a pump as that can get messy (as if things on my garage floor haven't been messy enough!).
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Old 08-25-2020, 07:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Don't remind me LOL! In the very beginning, when I was pretty sure the axle seal wasn't leaking, I did a flush with $40 worth of Royal Purple gear oil (bad idea). When that started spilling out and I knew I had a bad seal, we changed the seal and I dropped another $40 worth of Royal Purp in it. Then the axle ate that new seal, which is what led to changing the seal the second time, along with the axle itself. This time around, I dropped some cheapo, $6 Valvoline gear oil in it just to make sure all is well. Wasn't about to drop another $40+ of Royal Purple in it just to have it puke out on me for a third time. Now that I'm multiple drives in with no leak, my plan is to dump the Valvoline and once again throw some good stuff in it. Maybe Amsoil, or Royal Purple again.

Prior to the axle seal issues, I hadn't considered changing it. You'll find threads and posts across the forum where people have differing opinions about whether or not it's necessary. The job is easy enough, though. One bolt to drain, one bolt to fill. The most challenging part, which wasn't all that challenging at all, was Frankenstein'ing two funnels into one so it was long enough to reach the fill hole from the top of the engine. I bought the longest regular funnel Pep Boys had, along with one of those funnels that has a bendable tube and close valve on it. I pulled the tube off the second funnel and attached to the longer funnel. That gave me the length I needed to fill from above. We didn't want to mess around with a pump as that can get messy (as if things on my garage floor haven't been messy enough!).
Well, you'll have a pristine transmission. I was looking at 75W90 on Walmart.ca. So you feel the Valvoline isn't up to the task? Always thought their products were pretty darn good. I'll do some more research. I think you should do a tutorial. Many would benefit, no doubt.
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Old 08-26-2020, 07:24 PM   #12
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Well, you'll have a pristine transmission. I was looking at 75W90 on Walmart.ca. So you feel the Valvoline isn't up to the task? Always thought their products were pretty darn good. I'll do some more research. I think you should do a tutorial. Many would benefit, no doubt.
I wouldn't say the Valvoline stuff isn't up to the task. These gear boxes would probably run without oil lol. I was just thinking that since my local Toyota dealership can't sell me the OEM oil (they only have it in guns for techs, not in quart form for sale) and since I probably won't be changing it again, at least for a while, that I might as well spend a few extra pennies for some higher quality gear oil. Call it peace of mind.

Having said that, I've made several drives with the car having the Valvoline oil in it (not even the synthetic stuff, just the regular $6 a quart variety) and it feels great. I've read nothing but positive remarks about Amsoil in other threads across the forum so I was thinking about trying that but after driving the car for a bit with the basic Valvoline oil in it, I'm starting to reconsider if it's even worth the time and money to flush again. I might just run the Valvoline for a while longer and see how it goes.
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Old 08-29-2020, 10:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
I wouldn't say the Valvoline stuff isn't up to the task. These gear boxes would probably run without oil lol. I was just thinking that since my local Toyota dealership can't sell me the OEM oil (they only have it in guns for techs, not in quart form for sale) and since I probably won't be changing it again, at least for a while, that I might as well spend a few extra pennies for some higher quality gear oil. Call it peace of mind.

Having said that, I've made several drives with the car having the Valvoline oil in it (not even the synthetic stuff, just the regular $6 a quart variety) and it feels great. I've read nothing but positive remarks about Amsoil in other threads across the forum so I was thinking about trying that but after driving the car for a bit with the basic Valvoline oil in it, I'm starting to reconsider if it's even worth the time and money to flush again. I might just run the Valvoline for a while longer and see how it goes.
I read too - at Bob is the Oil Guy - that Toyota doesn't sell it in individual bottles. That seems very strange. I'm going to look into the Amsoil myself. I also hear Ravenol makes a 75 GL-4 oil. Also, Redline 75W90 GL-4 is available at Walmart Canada for around $19.00/L. There seemed to be some debate over whether a mulfigrade oil was appropriate for these transmissions.
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Old 08-31-2020, 12:25 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
I read too - at Bob is the Oil Guy - that Toyota doesn't sell it in individual bottles. That seems very strange. I'm going to look into the Amsoil myself. I also hear Ravenol makes a 75 GL-4 oil. Also, Redline 75W90 GL-4 is available at Walmart Canada for around $19.00/L. There seemed to be some debate over whether a mulfigrade oil was appropriate for these transmissions.
Here it is for a reasonable price.
https://www.blauparts.com/ravenol-ma...-3-75w-1l.html
Acording to reviews on amazon it is as good as the original Toyota oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Ravenol-J1C10...p?ie=UTF8&th=1
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