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04-18-2009, 01:58 PM | #1 |
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HELP - Removing rear hub!
Hi everybody. I've been at this for more than an hour! I can't get the rear ABS sensor plugs off the back of the hub. I've looked in the factory repair manual, and it shows sticking a screwdriver into the little hole at the bottom, and says "disengage the claw"... but I have no idea how to do it... turned it this way and that... chewed up the plastic pretty good at this point. I figure Tamago would know exactly how to do this, but he hasn't responded to PMs.
Anybody??! :EDIT: got the sensor off... now need the hub off... see below.
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2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door Last edited by Doc Zaius; 04-18-2009 at 04:06 PM. |
04-18-2009, 03:10 PM | #2 |
AWWW, id tell you but i can't stand you.....
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04-18-2009, 04:11 PM | #3 |
04-18-2009, 04:16 PM | #4 |
Lurker supreme!
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Wow, that's a useful response. What have I done to offend you? I'm very sorry if I've hurt your feelings... did I insult your use of all-caps?
Anyhow, got the sensors off... screwdriver goes below the hole, push up, disengages it, plug slides off. Simple. Got the 4 bolts out. Now the whole hub won't move... figuring it's seized. Tried prying with a screwdriver, and hitting the backing plate with a rubber mallet. Would perhaps penetrating anti-seize stuff help? There's not much visibility from the front or the rear... not sure how much that would help. Anybody have *useful* suggestions on how to get the hub off? Again, the Toyota factory manual simply says "Remove the 4 bolts and remove the axle hub and bearing from the axle beam." Hmmmmm... sounds simple!
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2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door |
04-18-2009, 04:30 PM | #5 |
Sounds like the hub needs more gentle persuasion , try a bigger hammer with
some lubing agent . Are you doing the disc brake conversion |
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04-18-2009, 05:46 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
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You can try pushing the hubs off if it has 2 threaded holes for bolts. I'm sure it does. Makes it easier if you start with the hub in the right spot. Rotate hub to the spot with the least amount of drag against the shoes. Good luck.
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04-18-2009, 06:34 PM | #7 |
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Thanks for the responses, guys. I know the drum cover (?) has two threaded holes to help pop it off the rear drum assembly... didn't see anything on the hub... will go back downstairs and check that out. And yeah, I hope some penetrating agent will help... I'll let it soak overnight if I can't get it off soon.
And no, not a rear disc conversion... (I wish!!)... just installing some 10mm hub spacers.
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2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door |
04-18-2009, 06:42 PM | #8 |
where did you get those from , Hmmmm , come on share now.
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04-18-2009, 06:43 PM | #9 |
Drives: blue Join Date: Jan 2009
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It should come right off with some lube and bfh, also i have two hubs with abs for sale.
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04-18-2009, 06:49 PM | #10 |
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I bought them from Tamago a *long* time ago... just getting around to installing them now. You could try to convince him to make some more...!
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2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door |
04-18-2009, 10:19 PM | #11 |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
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ummm you did take the shoes off first right and everything inside the drum?
make sure the abs sensor is off, the 4 hub bolts are off and the brake line is disconnected from the backing plate. then put two of the bolts about two threads in, and hammer out from the vehicle...
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04-19-2009, 11:40 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Ok, doing more poking around in the service manual... Brake pg. 60: It says I have to drain the brake fluid. Do I have to? There's no way to leave it hooked up and just slip this spacer in behind the hub? I hope I haven't messed up the alignment or hub bearings or anything from pounding on them with the brakes still attached and everything!
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2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door |
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04-19-2009, 11:50 AM | #13 |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
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you shouldn't have messed anything up tooooooo bad.....
you can just disconnect the brake line from the back of the wheel cylinder...keep in mind it will be a very good idea to bleed the brakes afterwards to get air/moisture out of the system... thats the other thing I'm not sure how the wheel bearing is in these cars...well I know it's not serviceable but if it's pressed on or what I have no idea....
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04-19-2009, 12:19 PM | #14 |
They make special hose pinch pliers that pinch the rubber portion of the brake line. If you dont have those, small vice grips should be okay. This will keep brake fluid from constantly leaking out. If you dont or do the job very quickly you are going to drain the master cylinder then you might end up having to remove it and bench bleeding it to get all the air out.
When you are done with the job crack open both the bleeder screws for the rear drums and fill the master cylinder all the way full and let the vehicle gravity bleed itself. Pretty much once you see fluid leaking from the back wait another 10 more minutes. Then all the air should be out and then close them up. You wont need to bleed the front brakes since no air should have got in there if the master never got low. Another tip is leave one drum assembly on while removing the other so you can refer to it cause incase you forget how it all goes back together.
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04-19-2009, 12:43 PM | #15 |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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^^^yup yup....
also disregard me questioning the wheel bearing...it comes out with the hub assembly anyways ...DUHR...lol
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04-20-2009, 02:01 AM | #16 |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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well?
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05-13-2009, 02:52 PM | #17 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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how'd this work out for you in the end, Doc?
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