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Old 08-02-2010, 03:41 AM   #145
birdman
 
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In post #115 the diagram shows the brown wire is cut. The upper part you have pictured connected to a blue line going to one side of the switch. On the other side of the switch there is a blue line that splices to a white wire. The portion of the brown wire that is attached to the connector you show a blue line attached to it. That blue line terminates at a black dot. If the black dot doesn't indicate a ground then what does it indicate? There is no mention of a +5v line in that diagram. This simple diagram isn't simple to me.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:54 AM   #146
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I just did a search of this entire thread and there is no mention of a +5V. So how am I supposed to know what a +5v is?

Last edited by birdman; 08-02-2010 at 04:18 AM. Reason: simplification
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:30 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman View Post
In post #115 the diagram shows the brown wire is cut. The upper part you have pictured connected to a blue line going to one side of the switch. On the other side of the switch there is a blue line that splices to a white wire. The portion of the brown wire that is attached to the connector you show a blue line attached to it. That blue line terminates at a black dot. If the black dot doesn't indicate a ground then what does it indicate? There is no mention of a +5v line in that diagram. This simple diagram isn't simple to me.

The black dots just indicate connection points. What the diagram below shows is that the "common" for the switch goes to the wire that heads up to the cluster and the two "poles" of the switch connect to the brown wire (for normal operation) and the white wire (for bypass operation). So, the switch is simply connecting the wire up to the cluster to the output of the module (the brown wire) or +5V (the white wire).

In your post where you mentioned ground, I just wanted to clarify that there is no ground connection with the switch, as making such a connection would instantly pop a fuse.


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Old 08-02-2010, 12:49 PM   #148
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The "common"? "Bypass operation"? I'm not familiar with such terminology. If you would could please explain it using "man in the street" terminology. Like saying "white wire" rather than complicating it by adding the +5v term.

Last edited by birdman; 08-02-2010 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:59 PM   #149
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Again. If the black dot connected to end of the blue line that connects to the brown wire attached to the connecter is a connection then what is it connecting to? Not the blue line going to the switch. I think CTScott is so technically advanced it is hard for him to simplify his explanations to the point where everyone can understand them.
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:21 PM   #150
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Again. If the black dot connected to end of the blue line that connects to the brown wire attached to the connecter is a connection then what is it connecting to? Not the blue line going to the switch. I think CTScott is so technically advanced it is hard for him to simplify his explanations to the point where everyone can understand them.
LOL - That's the problem with talking to other engineers all day.

The lines with the black dots represents the switch. The switch is a single pole, dual throw switch, which simply means that it takes one wire and connects that wire separately to two other wires. Depending on which direction the switch is flipped in, it connects the center to one side or the other. The picture below shows an example of a SPDT switch. You would attach the brown wire going up to the cluster to the center of it, and then the other side of the brown wire to one of the outer pins and the white wire to the other outer one.




Last edited by CTScott; 08-02-2010 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:29 PM   #151
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So all 3 dots are switch connection points with the brown from the connector connecting to the center post?
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:34 PM   #152
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So all 3 dots are switch connection points with the brown from the connector connecting to the center post?
Correct. That was a typo - I meant single pole, dual throw...
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:35 PM   #153
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How long do the wheel mounted TPMS sensors last before their batteries fail?
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:26 PM   #154
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How long do the wheel mounted TPMS sensors last before their batteries fail?
The service manual doesn't say. It just mentions that the sensors' "grommets" must be replaced every 10 years.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:08 PM   #155
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This guy knows everything. Sheese!
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:10 PM   #156
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Now I'm going switch hunting at the auto parts store.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:30 AM   #157
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I got my switch from radioshack, might be cheaper than auto parts.
Yes, CTScott knows everything - I mean EVERYTHING! So glad he is here and owns a Yaris.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:41 AM   #158
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Imagine the hours CTScott must devote preparing all this material for our benefit.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:00 PM   #159
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Imagine the hours CTScott must devote preparing all this material for our benefit.
What's CTScott doing answering these posts?
He's gotta get back to working on the Yargauge!

j/k

Yes, he is definitely a great asset to this community.
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:14 PM   #160
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Many thanks for this mod. this will save me serious $ whenI put rims on my '08 LB.
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:42 AM   #161
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Thanx as well, works great!
One problem I encountered was using the tap-splice connectors I didn't get all the way through the wire insulation the first time. Had to strip a small spot of the insulation from the wires to get a connection. The darn wires are so tiny.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:49 AM   #162
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*post 115*
So just... find the brown wire, cut it, splice the side going OUT from the plug unto the white wire and leave the brown wire going INTO the plug capped?
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