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04-09-2020, 06:04 PM | #1 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Project 2ZR Vios, part Deux!
It's been almost a year since I acquired project 2ZR Vios from ArmstrongRacing and I figured it's time I start documenting the continuation of his work.
I took it out for two autocross events last year, one in a parking lot and one on a road course. All I can say is that it is phenomenally fun to drive! The grip and acceleration are way beyond what I expected and there is currently a lot more capability in the car than in the driver. The level of prep on it forces it into XP--Exhibition Prepared--which is the catch-all for cars that don't meet any of the standard classes. While I've had a blast doing AutoX for the last 8-ish years, I want more seat time. I've done a HPDE with my 2ZR HB and that was incredibly eye-opening--as well as a massive gateway drug! The current plan is to prep the car for SCCA Club racing in Super Touring Lite (STL) since it is way beyond the prep levels allowed for H Production or B Spec where Jason@Sportscar has raced (and won a national title!) for a long time. I will also be doing track days with it and maybe even a 24 Hours of Lemons or two. TMontague has been a big inspiration as well. He's been doing track days and is at a similar level of prep, but I don't think he has plans for competitive/series racing. So yeah, I'll be making some progress over the coming year in anticipation of getting a competition license next spring and racing in at least one regional SCCA event. I'll probably make separate threads for the major build stuff like roll cage, aero, rules compliance, etc. but at least wanted to let the community at large know what happened with it and where it's going next. |
04-09-2020, 06:12 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
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Should be a lot of fun in STL, great class with a lot of participation.
__________________
2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion 2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion |
04-09-2020, 10:06 PM | #3 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Looking at the field from Nationals last year, I have no illusions about being competitive at that level--both from a vehicle and a skill perspective. While the displacement-per-lb ratio is meant to be an equal starting point, some vehicles just have more potential. No way I can out-drive a K20 that redlines at 10k or a Miata with 2/3rd the frontal area, but I'll have a great time trying.
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04-09-2020, 10:37 PM | #4 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Although I know nothing about racing, it's great to hear, Sam, that you're enjoying the car and it gets to live on; fulfill it's destiny. When you do get tired of it, please send me the trans and LSD.
__________________
2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
04-10-2020, 07:32 AM | #5 |
Drives: No longer own a yaris :( Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 680
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Nice! That is a sick car. Planning to do any vids of your racing?
__________________
I'm a hermit named Lee |
04-10-2020, 11:20 AM | #6 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Looking forward to following this build!
You are correct Sam, I don't have plans to compete in the near future, I'm content competing with myself and heading to the track with a handful of buddies who happen to be darn fast in subcompacts. It fits my current budget and family situation better and I will avoid burnout this way. Down the road I'd love to get onto time attack at the grassroots level. This summer I will be taking a year off from the track and just building up my car. All the glass is removed so I need to do lexan as well as purchase the MWR header and some new brake pads. Lots to keep me busy.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
04-10-2020, 12:37 PM | #7 |
daily driver
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subscribed!
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04-10-2020, 06:52 PM | #8 |
Nice! Tom said he sold it to an enthusiast, but didn't say specifically who. Sneaky, sneaky. Def following along...
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04-11-2020, 03:32 PM | #9 | |||
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Quote:
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Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the windshield--mine is cracked and needs to be replaced anyway. |
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04-07-2021, 08:46 AM | #10 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
|
Well, I suppose I should finally start documenting what I'm doing with the car.
I've done a few AutoX events with it and it's the most ludicrous thing I've ever driven--tons of grip, quick off the line, very responsive to my ham-fisted driving style. The plan is still to build it for SCCA Club Racing in STL but that may take another year or two before the car and I are ready. Lots of financial and logistical hurdles between here and there so I have to be patient and realistic with my expectations. In the meantime, I will be doing some incremental upgrades to get it ready for track day events. I'll post them here as I chip away at them. |
04-07-2021, 09:40 AM | #11 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Awesome, I'm looking forward to what you end up doing
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
04-07-2021, 09:50 AM | #12 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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__________________
2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
04-07-2021, 11:30 AM | #13 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Wiring reduction - Engine bay part 1
I'm putting together an online document to manage all the wires in the car and determine what can be removed for different levels of prep. Not sure if I'll make it public but I'd be happy to share by invite for anyone doing a similar build. I'm pulling the data from the OEM wiring diagrams, available through Toyota's TechInfo service.
Modifying the wire harnesses isn't hard, as long as you know what wires are what. The connectors are easy enough to de-pin and can potentially be re-used if you're gentle. The wire harness itself is just black electrical tape and split wire loom. I prefer to unwrap the tape instead of cutting to reduce the risk of nicking a wire. The anchors can be reused if you carefully remove them. A small screwdriver or 10mm socket on the back side is usually enough to release the catch pawls. Some can't be accessed from the back side (i.e. front ABS wheel sensors) and will be damaged/destroyed in the process. Aftermarket zip-tie style push-in clips are available (search for Toyota 82711-12200). Toyota uses slots instead of round holes for their connectors to prevent rotating. You may be able to get away with circular "christmas tree" push-in fasteners if you can't source that part number. On to the work! Because I don't intend to keep it street legal, there's lots of stuff that can be removed/simplified. Headlights and turn signals are first on the chopping block! The headlights are connected to wire harness B. It runs from the engine bay fuse block, to the driver's headlight, across the front bumper beam, to the passenger headlight. The sedan doesn't have the fender side markers that the hatchback does, so there's a few less wires. The horn, ambient temperature sensor and fog lamps (if equipped) are on this harness as well. I'm not keeping any of these so the whole harness can go! I will back-trace all of the wires on the other side of the connectors in the fuse block and remove those once I tackle the fuse block and wire harnesses A and E. The engine and its components are almost entirely covered by wire harness C. The existing harness is from a Corolla, which has the ECM next to the engine bay fuse block. As such, the ECM had to be relocated to allow the harness to reach it. I'm replacing it with a Scion xD (manual transmission) harness so that it will reach the ECM in the stock location. Almost everything on this harness is staying--the backup light switch, evap canister purge valve and air compressor switch will be deleted. The xD Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor has a different power wire than the Yaris and requires a little tweak to connect it. One option is to use an add-a-fuse block and splice directly to the black wire on CA2 pin 9. I prefer to go a slightly more complicated route and populate the vacant pin 9 location on the socket and connect it to an unused micro fuse slot. There are one or two wires inside of the engine bay fuse block that can be salvaged for this purpose, so I try to harvest them whenever one comes up at the local self-serve yard. This has the advantage of requiring zero field splices if you have to replace the engine harness at the track and it uses all OEM connectors for improved reliability. Pics to follow as I work through the process. I'm considering doing an external blog so that I own the content outright and don't have to worry about a site outage/shutdown, similar to what ArmstrongRacing did with his builds. Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 04-07-2021 at 01:23 PM. |
04-07-2021, 02:13 PM | #14 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
|
Safety Improvements - Roll Hoop Upgrade
The AutoPower roll bar that came with the car didn't have a diagonal or a harness bar. The anchor points for the harnesses as-found put the shoulder straps at an unsafe angle for my height. A friend of mine is an adept welder and has his own equipment, so I hired him for a Saturday afternoon to do the fabricating.
I took lots of measurements, extracted it from the car--no small feat--and bolted it to a 4x4 so I could strap it to my little Hazard Fraught trailer. Lots of trial fitting and double checking of measurements later, success! The roll hoop is actually for a hatchback, not a sedan, so it's an "interference fit" with the roof--the HB is slightly taller inside. More pictures to follow once I get it back in the car. |
04-08-2021, 12:19 PM | #15 |
Awesome
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04-08-2021, 02:15 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
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The closer to the roof the better. Nice update to the bar. While many people are not fans of bolt in cages/bars, if done properly they are plenty safe. We have an old SSC Nissan Sentra SER Spec V that runs in T4 now, complete bolt in cage.
__________________
2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion 2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion |
04-08-2021, 03:46 PM | #17 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
|
It's only going to be used for AutoX and track days, going to have a full welded cage done up for STL.
I think the roof is actually dented from the install. Hopefully that doesn't cause issues with tech inspection. |
04-13-2021, 11:07 PM | #18 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
|
Interior wiring - Junction Block
Wow, this one is a huge undertaking! Dozens of hours scouring the wiring diagrams to organize all the connections by connector instead of by function/wire, physically dismantling a unit, reverse engineering the connections to the internal relays, flexing my mad Paint skillz, the works!
Under the dash on the driver's side, the wire harnesses from the interior and the main engine harness all come together in a giant rats nest of wires, connectors, zip ties and sorrow. Getting it out requires removing the dashboard--which requires removing the a-pillars, the radio, the instrument cluster, the climate control, the steering wheel, the passenger airbag, etc. etc. Very few people will have a reason to remove theirs, so you're better off just leaving it unless you're completely mad. Or dumb. Or me. It's an impressive little package! There are multiple layers of stamped metal circuits, wires, insulation displacing connectors (IDCs) and a circuit board. All of the connectors are molded into the case. I tried to channel my inner Big Clive whilst performing the autopsy but ended up permanently damaging it. Pursuit of knowledge in the name of science, right? The heater (HTR), ignition #1 (IG1) and turn signal/hazard light (FLASHER) relays are on the outside of the junction block. All of the connections to those parts are networked inside the block. There's also a bank of low-profile mini fuses on the bottom and a few large ones on the back--power windows (POWER) and defroster (DEF). This is also where the Main Body ECU lives. The Main Body ECU is responsible for managing just that, the body wiring and electronics. It's mostly responsible for the locks (ACT+/ACT-) but also controls power to the fuel pump (C/OPN), defroster (DEF), power windows (PWR) and tail lamps (T-LP). It's the thing that lets you roll up the windows after you shut off the ignition, but only until you open the doors. Neat! The door locks are driven by small DC motors--not solenoids--so it can be managed with small relays instead of big chonkers. If you intend to keep your car street-legal--which both TMontague and ArmstrongRacing did--then you need to keep this in. It weighs at least 5 lbs, but there's easier ways to take 5 lbs off your sprung mass. ;) If you're making this a trailer-only, dedicated track vehicle, then it should be possible to run without it. The fuel pump will have to be powered by a relay or switch and the tail lights/brakes will have to be wired up independently. Pretty much everything else that would connect to it already has been or will very shortly be removed. |
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