Blitz S/C being installed this Saturday!

[LtNoogie]

Let's call today a day of reflection. One must reflect upon how badly you want to install the S/C yourself.

We got absolutely nothing accomplished except for the requisite bloody knuckle. I am uploading pictures to photobucket and will post pictures shortly.

Brother had to go take care of the baby so we called it quits until 0-dark-thirty tomorrow morning.

[LtNoogie]

From the Blitz manual:

Relieving fuel pressure on fuel pump. This prevents fuel from spraying out under pressure when you disconnect something later on that I have not read yet.

"(1) Locate and remove the fuse box panel under dash. (It is located under the dash on the driver’s side). Locate and remove fuel pump relay. It is the blue relay on the right hand side above the fuses"



Guess what? That blue relay isn't it! After an hour of searching for the relay and calling Toyota Service and Parts departments, THERE IS NO FREAKING FUEL PUMP RELAY.

While you have the dash torn apart, looking for the non-existent fuel pump relay, you can install your cabin air filter.



You have to depressurize the fuel system by disconnecting the connector on top of the fuel pump. That means you have to remove the rear seat.

So here's a tutorial on how to remove the rear seats on a 60/40 split seat in a Liftback.

Remove the plastic cover, exposing the two Torx bolts. You need a special Torx socket set. Remove the bolts. A hammer is recommended because the bolts are on tight.



Lift up the front of the seat bottom to reveal two more bolts that hold the front of the seat rail to the floor. Remove them.



Slide the seat forward, revealing the two rear Torx bolts on the seat bracket. Remove them.



Once you have removed the seat, that's when you realize the fuel pump connector is under the 60% side.

More to follow

[LtNoogie]

Now, remove the 60% side of the rear seat. You can save yourselves some time by not removing the 40% side. But if you have done both, this is a good time to install a roll cage.

Remove the plastic covers hiding three Torx bolts in the front of the 60% section. Remove the bolts.



Lift up the seat bottom to reveal the two Torx bolts holding down the seat bracket. Remove those bolts.



Remove the two Torx bolts holding down the rear of seat brackets. No picture.

Lick bloodied knuckle until vampire bats stop circling.



Lift carpet flap, and fuel tank cover to reveal wires going into a connector at the top of the tank. Remove this connector.





At this point, start the car. The engine will die within seconds because the fuel pump has been disabled and there is no more pressure in the fuel lines.

Go home, have a beer, and plan to start again tomorrow.

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by TheRealEnth

Lmao i picture a crappy drawing from a 3 year old

The manual that comes in the box is in Japanese! It's a good thing Garm sent me one written in Engrish.

[SIPNGAS]

I'm so sorry it didn't work out today. Hopefully tomorrow...

it's because you don't have the cool TRD sticker, you know. ;o)

[LtNoogie]

Yeah, tomorrow, the scary work starts. Once the engine pieces come off, there's no more driving it until she's put back together again.

Looks like I may be driving the Jeep for a couple of days.

[cali yaris]

You'll get through it, I have faith in the NOOGIE !!

[staypuft]

Originally Posted by Split

i'm so wanting to buy a blitz supercharger but i'm just not willing to spend $3400usd on it. I remember when there was a guy selling one used on here for like $2200usd.. in retrospect i wish i would have jumped on that =/

that was 2nd hand w/o warranty, garms got brand spanking new with 1 year warranty from blitz. i didnt do the fuel pressure thing, no problems with fuel spray, it all came out the fuel rail anyway when doing that pita bolt

[PETERPOOP]

done? :)

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by camelll

I just pulled the efi fuse in the fuse box under the hood, I still had a small amount of fuel come out of the injector area though. I spent a bunch of time looking for that same relay also. There is also something about an airbag sensor in the engine compartment you can forget about that one also. I will be on here most of the day today, if you have any problems or questions just pm me and I will try to help you out as much as I can.

I've PM'd you. We are trying to put the alternator back on now and those B spacers are really confusing. Thanks

[SIPNGAS]

Sounds like this installation is QUITE the undertaking....

[cali yaris]

Are Camelll's installation pics still available? He showed where those spacers go in those pics.

[PETERPOOP]

Originally Posted by camelll

What do you care? according to you the supercharger is a waste of money!

Actually i stated a S/C in a SEDAN is a waste of money.


let's see those videos noogie! muahaha

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by camelll

I pm'd you LTNoogie. One of those spacers goes at the top of the bracket and the other one goes on the bottom of the bracket. Where the alternator bracket bolts up to the engine block. Sorry I was busy earlier.

Thanks, Mike. I'll post pictures later this evening. I ended up not using one of the B spacers. I'll try to explain with the photos. I will definitely give you a call as we proceed further.

Long

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

done? :)

It's going slow. My brother and I are trying to decypher the grainy black and white pictures. Taking off the alternator is as hard has others have complained when trying to install the NST pulleys. Luckily I don't have to reuse the OEM bottom bolt because we stripped the head of the bolt trying to loosen it. Pictures will be posted in an hour or so.

[staypuft]

wow, so you havent tackled the dreaded bolt behind the fuel rail yet. be prepared to start cursing alot lol, keep us updated

[LtNoogie]

Now that I know how to disable the fuel pump, we do so and the engine dies after a few seconds of running.

Take off the engine cover. Most of you have seen what that looks like.



Thanks to Camell, I do not waste time looking for the non-existent air bag sensor. Everything else proceeding OK so far. The CAI comes off, revealing the throttle body.



After struggling with a hard-to-reach clamp on the vacuum line to the intake manifold, the manifold comes off. No problems at all with the middle manifold bolt.

We took the dipstick off after the manifold came off. This is out of order from the instructions but much easier to do in this order.



Taking the alternator off was a bitch, especially the bottom bolt that it pivots on. We had a four foot breaker bar which only helped to strip the head of the bolt a little. Lot's of penetrating oil and a half hour later, the bolt comes out and the alternator comes out with it. Part of the difficulty was making sure we did not damage the NST water pump pulley which is very near where the wrench has to be to remove the bolt.



More blood and the difficult alternator bolt.



The new alternator bracket goes on. See Spacer A and Spacer B locations.



Another view of the new alternator bracket. The alternator will be installed upside down from the factory position.



The alternator goes on first with Spacer B where the installation manual says but the alternator is too far offset from the rest of the pulleys.



Oh yeah, others have mentioned this. The bolts all come in one bag. It is up to you to figure out which bolt is the right one to use.

Finally, we decide to not use the second Spacer B and the alternator goes on and all of the pulleys are parallel to each other and are lined up.

Wifey calls and my brother has to leave for the evening. Tomorrow, the good stuff goes on. Things are tight around the alternator if you have factory air conditioning. Extra piping and brackets that are not there in the installation manual.

[LtNoogie]

A couple of times, especially with the alternator, it took four hands to work everything. My hat goes off to anyone who did this by themselves.