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Old 03-09-2013, 06:30 PM   #1
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Jimze Supercharged 1nz-fe Build

After a number of months of saving and planning, it's come time to upgrade my supercharged 2nz-fe engine in my 2000 Yaris.
I'm planning on a 1nz-fe running some lower compression pistons and stronger rods, amongst a few other things, but I'm very interested in any ideas, hints and experiences of those out there who have been down this route.

So .. My current set up is as below
Engine: 2nz-fe 1.3L, completely stock.
Jimze supercharger kit (I believe it's an Eaton M45 supercharger) with K&N CAI.
Supercharger is running up to 10.8psi at rev limit (6500rpm), but as a result the ignition timing has been pulled right back to stop the thing from detonating, give it's still running stock compression. (10.5:1)
The ECU is a Link G4 Storm which is a complete replacement. It made 74wkw (~100whp) So not terrible for a 1.3, but not anything too amazing.

The plan.
Obviously a 1nz-fe to start with. I'm planning to put some wiseco low compression pistons in. At this point I'm thinking 9:1 compression, but am open to advice here. Obviously with a larger displacement I'll be looking at a little less boost with the same S/C drive ratio. Obviously some stronger rods also, which I've sourced locally.

I'll be building the engine on a stand so have the advantage of having time to do what I want to do.
Without going overboard (as I don't have an unlimited budget) I'm looking at some amount of head work, including:
Port and polish
I'm looking at a cam grind. Kelford here in New Zealand offer a reasonably priced cam grind service.
I wouldn't mind getting some more revs out of it so perhaps some stiffer valve springs to facilitate that. I saw a set on the microimage online shop which look good.

Other than that I'm looking at a lighter flywheel. There's a JUN one available for ~38k Yen out of RHDJapan.com which looks Tidy, but for less than half of that I can get a standard flywheel lightened and balanced. Anyone got any experience here? How much lighter can you make a standard 1nz-fe flywheel?

I'm going to leave the gearbox and diff alone at this stage. Maybe that'll be the next step in the project.

As for fuel, I'm running the standard fuel rail and pump at present but with some "derestricted" 1zz injectors which now flow at ~700cc with a nice clean spray pattern.

Goal
The aim here is to make a reliable, relatively economical engine that's making somewhere in the 100-110wkw range. I drive the car a lot for work (~800km's a week) so I need it to be well behaved.

So that's the plan. As I said I'm open to any ideas or experiences that people have had specifically regarding running a lower compression setup for boost and strength.
Is there anything glaringly obvious that I've missed that I need to look at?

Also worth noting, I know I'd get more power from a turbo setup, but I'm a huge fan of a supercharger, so I'm going to stick with it for now. I might look at a turbo build at some stage in the future. :)

Here's the car and Dyno sheet from the current tune.





#Edit - I'm going through fixing the links to the pics because photobucket sucks. Hopefully I get them right

Last edited by iwanttobeamole; 02-19-2020 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:44 PM   #2
CrankyOldMan
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Sweet jeebus. Eaton has the following to say about the M45 series:

Quote:
The Eaton Supercharger Model 45 is designed for 2.0L to 3.0L passenger car and light truck engines, but may also be suitable for other engine sizes, depending on total system performance requirements.
Microimage also sells lightweight flywheels in a few different flavors, at price points near your 38k Yen example. They're also willing to ship internationally.

Aside from that, I can probably shed some light on the gearbox/diff questions when you get to that stage.
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:42 PM   #3
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Quote:
The aim here is to make a reliable, relatively economical engine that's making somewhere in the 100-110wkw range.
Only reason to run lower compression is to run higher boost levels and be able to tune it while avoiding detonation.

This is, I believe, not consistent with your stated power goal.

Our light flywheels are approx. 9 pounds. Stock is, as I recall, about 16 pounds?
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
Only reason to run lower compression is to run higher boost levels and be able to tune it while avoiding detonation.

This is, I believe, not consistent with your stated power goal.

Our light flywheels are approx. 9 pounds. Stock is, as I recall, about 16 pounds?
Surely there's some benefit to lowering the compression? With the goal of pushing up to 1bar through it?
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:20 PM   #5
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Can you actually get a smaller pulley to be able to increase the boost or is it something that will have to be machined up?
I see no real downside in dropping the compression slightly, but you won't be running as much boost with the std pulley on a 1NZ motor. Any headwork and cams will also drop the dynamic compression.
My plans involve swapping the rods for stronger ones but retaining the stock pistons so that no machining/ honing needs to be done. That in conjunction with cams and high octane fuel should easily keep detonation at bay.

Is the Link ecu connected to the factory knock sensor?
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #6
iwanttobeamole
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob323 View Post
Can you actually get a smaller pulley to be able to increase the boost or is it something that will have to be machined up?
I see no real downside in dropping the compression slightly, but you won't be running as much boost with the std pulley on a 1NZ motor. Any headwork and cams will also drop the dynamic compression.
My plans involve swapping the rods for stronger ones but retaining the stock pistons so that no machining/ honing needs to be done. That in conjunction with cams and high octane fuel should easily keep detonation at bay.

Is the Link ecu connected to the factory knock sensor?
I'd need to get a smaller pulley made up I think. There's also a possibility going slightly larger on the double pulley on the alternator but there's not a lot of room between it and the tensioner pulley. Also looking at some stiffer valve springs to facilitate more engine RPM which should help to raise the max boost.
I'll initially just get set up with the new engine, then look at upping the boost.
I think you'll be fine to stick with the stock pistons for the rally car, as higher octane fuel is a bit more feasible. As my car is a daily driver and I do ~800km a week, I'm tuned on 95 octane so it's not too expensive to run.

I know the link was tuned with a knock sensor, but I don't think it talks to the factory knock sensor during normal operation. I guess in theory the conditions shouldn't change too much as long as I stick to 95 octane or higher.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:10 PM   #7
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Small update on the build.
I've picked up a 1nz-fe, whipped the head off, and have taken it to my friendly local cylinder head shop for a cam grind, and a bit of tarting up. (ports, valve springs etc)
The engine has done a mere 70k's (~43k miles) so as you might imagine it's in pretty good shape. Immaculate even.
Bottom end will come out next week, then the crank goes for a balance along with the flywheel which I'll get a little cut out of.
Here's a pic with the head off. Not a lot to see but there it is.

Valve springs and exhaust manifold to come from micro image (thanks in advance Garm :)
More soon

Last edited by iwanttobeamole; 02-19-2020 at 04:13 AM.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:54 AM   #8
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Finally! an update!

Well after about a million years waiting for parts they've all finally arrived.
Thanks to Garm for all the bits that showed up on time. No comment on the rest

Parts List
CP 9:1 comp Pistons
Molnar rods
1nz valve spring upgrade kit
Megan racing exhaust manifold
Lightened (stock) flywheel
Excedy Clutch kit

Other stuff
Cam grind, (not sure on the new specs as I don't have the head back yet)
Was going to get a port and polish but the budget wouldn't allow
Head work to suits new cams, etc.
Full balance on crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch plate, Pulley etc.
Probably some other stuff I can't remember

Out with the old





In with the new





Bit of a pause at this stage in the post while some particularly talented person down the road thought it would be a good idea to set his neighbours car on fire. Fun times!

As with all aftermarket rods we ran into some clearance issues with the bottom of the cylinder. Hard to get a picture of it.



But that was easily fixed

(Video)
https://imgur.com/WqpRiBf


Don't worry, we tidied it up a little more after that.

Followed by test fitting, then rings, then piston installs, then this!
(another video)

https://imgur.com/OeTGfN7



At about this stage the Diesel took over and we didn't get a lot more done.
Still, only a little more to do on the bottom end which we'll get into this week. I was hoping to have the head back from the head shop (Hamilton Cylinder Heads- For the best head job in town) but they couldn't quite get it done. Should have it back early next week, and hope to get that on next weekend.

Once the engine is together, we'll do the swap, with my 2nz. Then off to the tuner hopefully all before the end of the month.

Whisky time.

Last edited by iwanttobeamole; 02-19-2020 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 06-08-2013, 01:07 PM   #9
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^ Awesome, well done!
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:29 PM   #10
iwanttobeamole
 
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I noticed something about the Molnar rods that didn't match the stock ones.

The stock rods have an oil gallery that feeds from the big end, through the bearing , all the way up the rod to the small end, which then feeds through the oil rings in the piston.. simple.

However, the molnar rods don't have the same oil gallery in the rods, instead they just have some holes at the small end of the rod, which look like maybe they're meant to work with oil squirters or something??





Red circle where the stock rods have a gallery opening, and blue arrows where the molnar rods have the holes.

My 1nz-fe has no such oil squirters/delivery system aimed at the underside of the piston.
Is it something I should be worried about or is there enough oil splashing about down there to keep the pistons/cylinders well lubed?

I'm definitely over-thinking this.

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Old 06-11-2013, 11:53 PM   #11
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Could take a look at Pauter or Crower rods to compare.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:32 AM   #12
iwanttobeamole
 
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If you have something in stock and could take a look Garm it would be interesting to now if the other brands also delete that gallery.
On closer inspection of the stock rods that feed doesn't go all the way up the rod, but just goes through the side of the rod at the big and and guess squirts oil up toward the piston.

In any case we decided to keep putting the engine together. Hopefully the chaps at Molnar know what they're doing.

I picked up the head from shop tonight, and we got it in place and bolted down. got the cams in and timing chain on, before we realised that the new head bolts hadn't come with washers... *facepalm*
Still, nothing a little back peddling couldn't fix.

We also bolted up the Megan Racing exhaust manifold, but discovered that it doesn't come close to marrying up with the factory brace, so I guess we'll have to do a little fabrication there as I'm not all that keen on just deleting the brace.

Will upload some pics tomorrow.

Sleep time now.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:47 PM   #13
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Head Job

head on


and back off again


Cams GO!


Lumpy(er than stock.. hopefully)


Cover on


Exhaust Manifold Comparisons


Closeup of the old


and new.


Minor problem with the Megan Racing exhaust manifold..
IE.. it's the wrong shape for the factory brace.





(edit - Turns out the newer 1nz-fe had a brace to suit so an easy fix after a visit to the wreckers)


Hopefully it clears the firewall, but I think there's plenty of room there.
Also of note is the plate on the manifold need a bit of machining to get it actually straight, but given the price I can't complain too much :)

Got the use of a workshop on the weekend of the 22nd/23rd to do the engine swap. Tune booked for Monday 24th. Can't wait!

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Old 06-12-2013, 08:19 PM   #14
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Incidentally, the car in the background of a couple of shots is a mates AE86 + Beams 3SGE with stacks.

it sounds like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBWaTi18ynE
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:47 AM   #15
iwanttobeamole
 
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Cams

Found the specs from the cam grind

Stock


After Grind




Also had an awesome response from Tom Molnar of Molnar technologies explaining their process and design for their rods. Awesome info from an awesome guy. Gave me some peace of mind about the rods and build in general. Thanks Tom!!

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Old 06-23-2013, 01:44 AM   #16
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Install time.

On Friday night we headed down to a mates workshop to do the install.
Started at about 4:30pm, and finished up about 11 hours later.

The new donk


removal of the old engine with proprietary engine lifting system (yes it's an old ambulance stretcher)


Engine out


Fitting the new clutch and lightened flywheel. (turbo for scale)


Gave the intake manifold a tidy up as it was fairly dirty/oily in there from blowby (oil catch can now fitted.


At this point we also noted that there were some black marks in the old gasket goo between the S/C and the manifold suggesting it was leaking. I also tested the butterfly valve that is used for the bypass, which was also leaking heavily when I was just blowing through it.

So we sorted that out.


Less boost leaking out is always a good thing.
Had to find a bung to close up the return hole for the bypass valve.
Milk bottle to and a little glue sorted that issue out.





here's where the fun started.


The 2nz block is shorter than the 1nz block, and as it turns out that difference is somewhere between the alternator and the supercharger. We had to get a little creative as the alternator didn't reach it's tensioning slot.. so we had to improvise a little.

Got some washers, brazed them together, then cut them so they would support the other side of the alternator tensioner bolt, and just clamped it up so it grabbed the bottom of the slider bar. It's a little rangi mods, but it works for now.


We'll fix that properly later

##Edit## 6 years have passed. it's still the same. (see page 3 for details)

Also the 4PK 540 belt is JUST long enough to get around the two pulleys with no requirement for a tensioner bearing at all. I'll look at getting a longer belt at some point but the tension is about perfect at the moment so it's all set for the dyno tomorrow.

We had to slightly modify the bonnet as the S/C now sits a little higher, but we only needed to remove some of the fibreglass bracing material. It's a pretty close fit with the bonnet down, but it should be ok.
So we got it all back into the car, turned it over and it started straight away, and felt good, if a little loud with the exhaust not mounted up yet. It was getting on toward 4am so I got a little slack with the photos. Went back today to finish up a few things and tidy the workshop.

Last thing to do tomorrow morning is to take the car down to the muffler shop and get the exhaust modified to fit the megan racing header which was on a different angle and location to the stock setup, and the flange is a bit different. Should be able to sort it before leaving at 1pm, for the tune which is at 3:30 pm :)

Will report back in a little over 24 hours with the results.

I'm just hoping it doesn't grenade on the dyno because I forgot to tighten something somewhere.. :S

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Old 06-23-2013, 05:36 PM   #17
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That header is for a later yaris...the echos/vitz has an outlet thats straight back. First gen scion xB and xA are the same as well. Plenty of proper fitting headers availible for your chassis.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:46 PM   #18
iwanttobeamole
 
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Dyno Round 1

Got the exhaust all sorted and headed to the dyno on Monday.
Got a bit of base tuning done, then got it onto the dyno.


Well... First and foremost, then engine didn't explode! which is a bonus.

Did a few runs to check things out, and it was all looking good. By the looks of things though the boost has dropped quite a bit with the new capacity. it's only making about 8psi now where it was almost hitting 11 with the 1.3.
Unfortunately we we got to about 80kw, and the clutch started slipping. I had bought a decent exedy clutch, but it ended up being the wrong size, so had to get another at short notice, which turned out to be a pile of shit.

So we left the tune at that.. Lin (tuner) tidied it up a little and we pulled it off the dyno and I headed home.

On the bright side, it'll give the engine a nice wear in period, and give me some time to fit up a larger 1zz throttle body and get a new pulley made for the supercharger.

These M45's are the same S/C as the mini cooper S uses, and there's a lot of guys running up to 1bar through them, so I'm going to aim for something closer to that and hope the damn thing doesn't melt.

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