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Old 09-17-2013, 10:09 PM   #1
CTScott
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DIY - OEM Power Window Conversion

Last September I installed aftermarket power windows and locks on Crashy2. I really wanted to use OEM power locks and power window regulators, but they were a bit more expensive (even for used parts) than I wanted to spend for the project, so I decided to go aftermarket. The aftermarket power window setup works with the manual window regulator, so no OEM parts needed to be replaced.

I purchased the power lock kit from A1 Electric and it has been great. I cheaped out on power window kit and purchased one off ebay for about $100 for the 2 door kit. I wondered how long it would last and recently answered that question, when the window rolled half way down and then the gear box of the window motor starting making a horrible sound.

Here is what the aftermarket lock and window kits look like installed:



I decided to replace it with an OEM setup, instead of going another round with aftermarket. The first problem is locating parts for a decent price. The regulator (the scissor lift looking piece) runs $125 new and the power window motor runs $300 new.

I was able to find a used OEM motor from a Sequoia for $35 (almost all 06-11 Toyotas use the same motor) and a regulator for $75. The regulators for the 3 door Yaris are unique to it.

Regulator:


Motor:


The connector for the motor is not present on manual window cars, so I used two of the necessary pins (which I have on hand) and potted the pins into the connector with clear silicone.

My initial thought was that perhaps you could remove the crank mechanism and bolt on the motor in its place, but it turns out that the power an manual regulators are quite different.

Comparison of power window regulator (top) and manual one (bottom):



Replacing the OEM manual window regulator with the OEM power window regulator requires opening the door, disconnecting the window from the regulator, removing the window, and removing and replacing the regulator.

removing the window involves moving it to the position where you have access to both of the regulator to window bolts, removing those two bolts, and pivoting the window forward and then lifting it out.

Here's the left bolt hole:


And the right (accessible through the slot in the door):


And, here is the window removed:


Removing the manual regulator involves removing the two top mounting bolts and the three bolts for the crank section.

Top mount bolts:


Three crank section bolts:


To install the power window regulator you first mount the motor to the regulator and then insert it into the door. The same two top mounting bolts are used, but the motor section requires four bolts instead of three. The picture below shows the three mounting holes for the manual regulator in yellow and the four for the power regulator in red.



I wired the OEM power window motor to the wiring from my aftermarket power window kit. I tested the motor to make sure that I had it wiring in the correct direction, so that up on the switch equaled window moving up.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:14 AM   #2
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Thubs up, this is what I am planning to do if i find time for it ;)
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:21 AM   #3
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #4
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i've been wanting to do the oe power windows as well. If a man were to purchase the factory door harness and switches does the base chassis allow for plug and play or would still require some "wiring" in?
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90tsi View Post
i've been wanting to do the oe power windows as well. If a man were to purchase the factory door harness and switches does the base chassis allow for plug and play or would still require some "wiring" in?
No. You would have to do quite a bit of wiring under the dash, as well as change out the Body ECU (which is integrated into the under dash fuse panel). The easiest way to do it is to use an aftermarket switch kit from A1 Electric to drive the OEM motors (as I am now doing).
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:27 AM   #6
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Ok cool. Thanx for the info. I wasn't sure in the ecu was different or not.
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 90tsi View Post
Ok cool. Thanx for the info. I wasn't sure in the ecu was different or not.
The main ECU (ECM) is the same, but the body ECU is different.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:18 AM   #8
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^ Make sure you reinstall all the plastic film, covering all the holes - this film actually does lots of soundproofing.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:44 AM   #9
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^ Make sure you reinstall all the plastic film, covering all the holes - this film actually does lots of soundproofing.
Correct. And, since you have to lift so much of it up to work on the regulator, you have to be very careful not to rip it.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:41 AM   #10
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I plan to install an aftermarket power window conversion kit. I plan to later add the power locks kit, hence would try to do all the wiring while working on the power windows. I know it sounds stupid, but I want to buy wire from e-bay since if i buy it here locally it is very expensive. Question: what gauge should I buy? I was thinking to buy gauge 16.

Thanks

(less than 20 bucks for 200 feet)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Rolls-Audi...item3cd396f3d9

just 74 bucks ))
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390469154906?_trksid=m570.l4769
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Old 09-26-2013, 01:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOLMACH View Post
I plan to install an aftermarket power window conversion kit. I plan to later add the power locks kit, hence would try to do all the wiring while working on the power windows. I know it sounds stupid, but I want to buy wire from e-bay since if i buy it here locally it is very expensive. Question: what gauge should I buy? I was thinking to buy gauge 16.

Thanks

(less than 20 bucks for 200 feet)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Rolls-Audi...item3cd396f3d9

just 74 bucks ))
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390469154906?_trksid=m570.l4769
16 AWG would be correct for the windows. You could use that as well for the locks, or drop down to 18 AWG, as they draw considerably less power.
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:44 PM   #12
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^ thanks!
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:19 AM   #13
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(I bought a kit from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/390469154906...84.m1497.l2649)

^ Question pls:

- What is the good source of +12V to power the whole thing (point 1 on the picture). Shall I run the (+) wire straight to the battery positive terminal? Do I need a relay or just connect the red wire to (+) and black to ground?

Thanks

PS: just discovered that my kit does not have bezels for flash mounting of the switches. Would probably have to buy similar switches with bezels like this one (looks like the same number of pins). Hopefully will be able to reuse the wiring hardware.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370765315679
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:04 AM   #14
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For the power you really want to have the windows ignition switched, so you will want to add a relay, which uses the pink wire on the ignition switch connector to drive the coil.

Your red wire will then connect through the contacts on the relay to a high current feed. For that look at my remote start wiring guide for the unused 60A connection on the face of the under dash fuse panel. You will want to add an inline fuse between the fuse panel connection and the wire to the relay contacts.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:44 PM   #15
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^ Thank you

In the first picture of this thread, the pink and yellow wires that feed the windows motors - do I understand correctly that motors get (ground) from the the doors metal and pink and yellow wires are just two (+) leads; and only one of those wires is actually suppllying (+12V) to the motor at any time when the switch is activated?

(Just trying to figure out the polarity and whether it matters.. or I can hook them and see which way the window goes and then decide the correct connection?)

Thanks again
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOLMACH View Post
^ Thank you

In the first picture of this thread, the pink and yellow wires that feed the windows motors - do I understand correctly that motors get (ground) from the the doors metal and pink and yellow wires are just two (+) leads; and only one of those wires is actually suppllying (+12V) to the motor at any time when the switch is activated?

(Just trying to figure out the polarity and whether it matters.. or I can hook them and see which way the window goes and then decide the correct connection?)

Thanks again

No ground is connected to the motors, as you have to be able to drive them in both directions. With the aftermarket kit the two motor wires exit the door and go to the power window relay, which handles doing the complete reversal of power and ground to the motors to allow up and down.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:15 PM   #17
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^ Thanks!!
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:28 AM   #18
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Hey, thanks alot for the write-up!

Are sedan and hatchback window regulators interchangeable? According to an ebay listing, the seller states that they are but I just wanted to confirm.

Do you also have a link to where you purchased your switches/relays? Is it possible to use a stock toyota relay for this or would that unused 60A connection be the best? So you basically used the pink wire in the ignition for the signal but would it be easier to connect it to the cluster for the signal?

Sorry for all the noob questions and thanks again!

Last edited by 07liftback; 03-28-2014 at 08:11 AM.
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