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Old 04-22-2021, 09:16 AM   #1
thebarber
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P0016 + misfires

well, i thought it might finally be time to bring this to the forum as im sure bluevitz/Jamie, CrankyOldMan/Sam, and echo_HRS/Steve are tired of me bothering them individually.

here's where im at:

I pulled the blitz supercharger off the #QCyaris (a canadian market 2007 yaris 5dr hatchback 5 speed manual) and put it back to stock with the spare engine i got from TMontague/Trevor about 6 years ago. I put the QCyaris on the road and it drove ok for about a week when it started to idle really badly and threw P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 codes as well at P0010, P0012 (iirc), and P0016 codes. Now, my memory is a bit foggy at this point, but I don't recall having those last 3 codes all at the same time, but they've shift around a bit as i replaced parts.

to note: the car had what sounded like timing chain rattle since buying the car supercharged. it sounded initially like it was transmission, but as i dived into the project, the noise seemed to be on the timing chain side towards the back of the engine.

when swapping out the supercharger, i realized the VVT solenoid was broken at the base and to push out the rest of it by opening up the valve cover and going from the inside. trevors old engine had another VVT solenoid in it. i also had to get a new VVT plug and wire it in as one wire pulled out of the plug.

i figured out the spark plugs were 1 step colder so i had some new plugs kicking around from a previous echo that i put in. didnt solve anything.

ive swapped out the injectors for other 1nzfe ones i had kicking around. solved nothing.

i swapped out the cam sensor with the extra i had in trevors engine. iirc, it didnt fix anything.

pretty sure i swapped out the crank sensor from trevors engine, still nothing.

i swapped out the timing chain, tensioner, and guides from trevors engine last week and finally buttoned it up yesteray. charged the battery. cranked it without the injectors or coil packs plugged in to move the oil thru the engine (thanks crankyoldman!). started it up and it still runs lumpy, throwing misfires (p0300 thru p0304) as well as the P0016.

what i feel i need to do at this point is double check that my VVT solenoid is working ok, bench test the cam sensor, test the cam sensor plug/wiring (in the car), bench test the crank sensor, and test the crank sensor wiring (in the car).

another item i need to dig out is the wiring for the blitz fuel controller. iirc i just reconnected same-colour wires when i took out the fuel controller. i can't recall if one of the wires is a crank signal? maybe something rattled loose in that first week?

if anyone else has a ideas of where to start or where to look, id really appreciate the help!
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Old 04-22-2021, 02:24 PM   #2
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To clarify, you currently are running my old "IKEA" 1nz in your QC Yaris NA or with the S/C?

I'm confused because you mentioned that a bunch of parts were swapped from my old engine but I'm not sure what engine they went on.

Based on your codes I would first check your timing. I'm assuming you have already been down that road so the next step would be checking all the wiring for the cam and crank sensors as well as vvti solenoids.

It sounds to me like there is a wiring issue causing the ecu to misinterpret some data and throw those codes and have the engine run rough.

Do you have a scanner that can look at live data pids? I'd be curious what your cam timing is on you intake cam compared to a known good reading.

The engine itself and all the parts attached to it ran flawlessly when I pulled it for my 2zr swap so you can confidently rule out a lot of those things. I wouldn't imagine that it sitting fir 6 years caused any of your issues.
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Old 04-22-2021, 02:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
To clarify, you currently are running my old "IKEA" 1nz in your QC Yaris NA or with the S/C?

I'm confused because you mentioned that a bunch of parts were swapped from my old engine but I'm not sure what engine they went on.

Based on your codes I would first check your timing. I'm assuming you have already been down that road so the next step would be checking all the wiring for the cam and crank sensors as well as vvti solenoids.

It sounds to me like there is a wiring issue causing the ecu to misinterpret some data and throw those codes and have the engine run rough.

Do you have a scanner that can look at live data pids? I'd be curious what your cam timing is on you intake cam compared to a known good reading.

The engine itself and all the parts attached to it ran flawlessly when I pulled it for my 2zr swap so you can confidently rule out a lot of those things. I wouldn't imagine that it sitting fir 6 years caused any of your issues.
running the 1nzfe that came in the QCyaris - 220km on it iirc. your old ikea engine is sitting in my garage. ive used the ikea engines cam sensor, crank sensor, vvt solenoid, timing chain, timing tensioner, timing chain guides, intake manifold and likely a few other odds and ends at this point.

unfortunately i don't have a scanner that can read live data. could an android tablet with torque do that? (id have to borrow one of the kids as i presnetly have an iphone)
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Old 04-22-2021, 03:02 PM   #4
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I see, ok that makes sense now.

From my understanding torque does give live data but I am not sure to what depth. Free tech stream with a cable would likely give the most functionality and data but it would take a bit longer to set up.

Recheck timing and then triple check. If that checks out then I'd start checking the connectors and pins on your cam and crank sensor wires.

Something is causing the ecu to detect your cam and crank timing isn't correlating. It likely isn't a faulty solenoid as I believe you would see more than one code if it was that - I could be wrong however.

IMO it could be mechanical timing that is the issue or a sensor issue due to faulty wiring. Either was you will want to view live data to help guide you. See what fuel trims are doing and what cam advance is doing.

I also think you are on the something around the blitz wiring as that will need to he checked. Take a look at wiring diagrams for the cam, crank and vvti solenoid and see if any wires are improperly connected
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:50 PM   #5
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When splicing your wires back after pulling the blitz, did you solder or crimp. IIRC, a big problem back in the day when everybody was on the blitz bandwagon, people got lazy and crimped their splices and had issues which were resolved by soldering.

BTW, good to see you resurface.
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Old 04-22-2021, 08:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
When splicing your wires back after pulling the blitz, did you solder or crimp. IIRC, a big problem back in the day when everybody was on the blitz bandwagon, people got lazy and crimped their splices and had issues which were resolved by soldering.

BTW, good to see you resurface.
Hmm, that it an interesting note. I have always only ever crimped and heat shrink sealed my automotive connections.
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Old 04-23-2021, 08:54 AM   #7
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I think people confuse the 3M insulation displacement crimp (IDC) style "vampire" taps with a properly crimped connection. Those things are awful. Crimping is the automotive standard because solder creates a rigid joint that can fail from vibration.

Any chance it was done with IDC connectors and there's a break in one or a short between two? Could a disconnected injector cause that DTC?
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Old 04-25-2021, 10:08 PM   #8
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I’m aiming to check the crank and cam sensors and their wiring in the morning tomorrow
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:35 AM   #9
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Sensors and wiring seemed ok.

I did notice taking out the cam sensor (and then putting it back after testing) it didn’t seem to seat flush with the head. I took out the battery so I could tap it in flush. I had to set the battery on the trickle charger again last night, so I’ll see if that was the source of the issue.
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
When splicing your wires back after pulling the blitz, did you solder or crimp. IIRC, a big problem back in the day when everybody was on the blitz bandwagon, people got lazy and crimped their splices and had issues which were resolved by soldering.

BTW, good to see you resurface.
Good to be active again.

It actually just came up the other day in my Facebook memories from “The Barber Garage” that I fixed the wiring a year ago! I’m fairly certain I used crimp connectors because of what Cranky said
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Old 04-27-2021, 07:23 AM   #11
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Definitely get a known good battery in there. Low voltage does all sorts of weird things. I'm not saying it is the cause of your issues but something you want to make sure is good before you go further to chase this down.
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Old 04-28-2021, 08:26 AM   #12
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so costco in Michigan doesn't sell the 26R batteries and I didn't see/realize the car already had a 35-sized battery in it. Long story short, NAPA has a "buy 3 items online, get 20% off all items" deal - - and its like 3min from me. so i ordered their cheapest battery, a universal battery tie-down rod (as i needed one), and some more coolant (as i needed that too).

put the new battery in and was still getting lumpy idle coupled with P0016 and ALL the misfires pending.

confused and annoyed, i chatted with Cranky and BlueVitz on FB messenger. I checked timing (it looked ok), i made sure the grounds on the front of the engine were ok (they were attached, best i could see), checked that i had everything plugged in, and then i rechecked my wiring again (which was ok for cam, crank, and VVT). BlueVitz reminded me of a post/thread id read somewhere where a piece of metal got stuck in their VVT solenoid.

So I had to loosen my alternator and subsequently my serpentine belt to take off the VVT solenoid. it looked ok, but i figured id make some wiring leads and make sure it activates right off the battery. it seemed to only move a bit, but i wasnt sure how far it SHOULD move. so played with opening and shutting it a bit and decided to have my son take a video of it for me so i could show BlueVitz and Cranky to see what they thought.

In mucking around with it and opening/shutting it a bunch more times it seemed like it was moving a bit more freely/easily and opening a bit more. but i thought it was just me. i put the engine back together and figured id give it another try.

so, the #QCyaris fired up and idled perfectly.

i was astounded.

did i go too far replacing the chain, etc? no, i don't think so. i no longer have the loose-chain sound that i was getting before replacing the chain/tensioner/guides.

i got the wiper cowl partially reinstalled yesterday before i had to finish up for the evening. today im hoping to get the car back together the rest of the way. i have some new front brakes and pads for it, i need to put a new muffler on, and i was going to dig out the rpf1's to toss on.

thanks so much to BlueVitz, CrankyOldMan, and Tmontague and anyone else who gave me hints, tips, tricks, and advice throughout the last 18mo this TuRD has been on jackstands in my garage. I REALLY appreciate the help folks!
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Old 04-28-2021, 10:46 AM   #13
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Crazy, but glad it fixed your issue.

As a side: I have had a vvti solenoid go bad in my H6 Subie which I confirmed with live data. However when bench tested the solenoid worked exactly as it should and resistance across the terminals was within spec.

A new solenoid fixed the issue which was also confirmed with live data PID's.

Sometimes the solenoids are no longer working properly but bench test fine. In your case it appears it bench tested improperly and eventually fixed itself.
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