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Old 08-11-2007, 08:28 AM   #1
hystria
 
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Having clutch issues ?

Hello everybody,

this topic is meant for those complaining about clutch issues, for several reasons... although this might not fix them all, its probably worth trying it

I found my clutch had some weird behavior, clutch shattered when released in 1st gear, friction point was too long, and finally the pedal got harder to depress.

There is only one think one could try DIY: bleeding the clutch cylinder. However this could be a very tricky operation as I found that is very hard to bleed it well. At one point it seems no air remains in the cylinder while the clutch pedal still doesn't work right. I finally found the trick to do it right, air came out, and the clutch works just fine now This trick is anything but the normal procedure described in the technical book... I'd suggest that even at the dealer or at the assembly line, the technician might not have been bleed the clutch cylinder as it should. This might cause weird clutch behavior as noticed by several Yaris owners.


As an extra, for those having long legs, note that the pedal clutch can be adjusted to stay closer to the floor. Also, the friction point can be set upwards too, for those who found it to be too close to the floor.

That's all
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:28 AM   #2
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I am very interested in your methods. My clutch also has a very long friction point and i would also like to adjust the clutch closer to the floor. Being 6'2" and having a weird clutch that is too close has been difficult at times. Also curious if anyone else has invested in some steel braided clutch lines?
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:13 AM   #3
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buy automatic
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:37 AM   #4
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I would also like to hear your methods.

And automatics are boring and cost to much to replace -> more moving parts mean equals more chances for failure.
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Old 08-12-2007, 01:42 PM   #5
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well, normal method is to have a helper keep depressed the clutch pedal while opening the bleeder. it's important to open the bleeder at least 1/2 turn when bleeding. then close the bleeder while the pedal is still depressed. to be repeated several times.

now this does not fully bleed the clutch piston! next step is done without touching the clutch pedal. tighten the bleeder only by hand just enough to be able to quickly release it with two fingers. grab with the right hand the clutch cylinder lever and push the piston inside the cylinder as quick as possible while releasing the bleeder with the left hand. the quicker the piston is pushed, the better the results. it is important to synchronize bleeder opening and piston pushing. the bleeder should be then closed while the piston is firmly kept inside. to be repeated also several times. keep an eye on the brake fluid lever on the side of where the reservoir has the MIN mark, it empties very quickly.

I might soon add a pick to help but essentially the bleeder and the piston lever are are well visible just beside the radiator fan
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:47 PM   #6
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Method for the home mechanic with no helper.....
1) put a small hose(something that fits snug like a gas hose, or vaccum hose) on the bleeder thats just long enough to reach to the bottom of a small can/glass/jar.
2) open the bleeder
3) insure the reservoir maintains fluid (doesn't get pumped dry!) while you pump the clutch pedal.
4) Once the hose in the can is submerged in fluid the air only bubbles to the top of the can and can't get sucked back into the slave cylinder.
5) close bleeder valve...top of the reservoir.....pick up your mess...you're done!

Edit: Much easier to drive 10 miles to pick up a hose than to ask a wife or a teenager to help. Read about this method a couple decades ago....and it works much better than with a helper
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Last edited by churp; 08-12-2007 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:35 PM   #7
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using that hose it's a MUST
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Old 08-20-2007, 01:10 AM   #8
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I use Chirp's method for brakes and it works flawlessly. You can even buy a brake bleeder kit that has all the required parts and even has a magnet to stick the plastic jar up close to the brake caliper or clutch piston. By doing this you use a shorter length of clear hose and waste less fluid. The kit only costs like $5.00
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:59 AM   #9
cleong
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Does anyone notice that after a couple of hard launches, the clutch gets noticeably more bitey, like the friction point has become smaller, instead of being nice and easier to modulate?

Is that normal?
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:30 PM   #10
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It's most likely either:
a) Psychological, because you did hard launches by releasing the clutch fast and revving high, so your 'normal' launches aren't as slow any more and feel like it's biting earlier.
b) You burned up your clutch a little and the surface is glazed over. Drying for awhile reverses this.

EDIT: 'Driving for awhile', not drying.

Last edited by Edd; 08-21-2007 at 02:44 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttufrosty View Post
I would also like to hear your methods.

And automatics are boring and cost to much to replace -> more moving parts mean equals more chances for failure.

Yes, they are boring! However, my automatics have lasted just as long if not longer than some of the standards I've owned. My old faithful ('99 Ford Taurus) just passed 180 000miles (289 000kms) and the transmission still shifts like new. Only problem I've had was with a gasket ($43) that gave the transmission a slow leak. Only done three tranny fluid and filter changes (never flushed).

Transmissions for domestic vehicles are rather cheap these days. Less than $1K for a re-manufactured unit - installed. Yaris...who knows.
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