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04-16-2021, 06:58 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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RomanDave's Prius C swap
Hi,
I managed to find some great information on this site from other users, mainly Zedicus' post about Prius C engine swap. So thought I'd share some extra details of what I've been doing. The basic plan is: Low km Prius C motor Silvertop 4AGE ITB setup Link G4+ ECU BC valve springs JUN 264 / 9.5mm cams 4kg flywheel Exedy clutch C56 gearbox / helical LSD Into a 2005 NCP10 3 door Echo. Currently running a normal 2NZ with ITB and saw great results. Progress posts to follow. DSC07717.jpg |
04-16-2021, 07:04 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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So first thing was to start collecting some parts.
The gearing sucks so I managed to find a C56 from a Vitz RS. Then 4kg flywheel from Japan. Exedy clutch. Some BC valve springs from Ebay. Then a normal 1NZ sump to swap over. Then at this stage I just had some normal 1NZ cams to swap in too. But because it's heaps of work to swap over the cams while the motor is in, I figured I may as well just cut to the chase. So ordered some JUN cams which are still on their way. 168404282_10158351887127198_2171414234416335031_n.jpg |
04-16-2021, 07:10 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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I managed to get a 30,000km old 1NZFXE, everything looked amazingly new and fresh.
So started stripping it down and decided to swap the sump over first. Then once I'd done that, I decided to get the old valve springs out and replace with the BC springs. Bad move! Dropped one of the retainers down an oil passage, into the sump. So had to take it off again. 173134392_770974303559712_3179763851958112171_n.jpg It turns out that it was impossible to try fit the new stiffer springs with the head in place, so I removed the head and took it to the local engine shop to sort out. Once I took the head off, holy moly this motor looked yuck inside. I'm hoping it's all deposits from EGR, rather than blowing past the piston rings. I'm not keen on swapping out rings or removing rods and pistons at this stage. But if the motor blows a lot of smoke, I guess I'll have to. I spent a while cleaning up the pistons and combustion chambers just with petrol and a toothbrush. Hopefully it will self clean a little more when being run without EGR. 173475557_315783719969206_7920177359922194883_n.jpg So I got the head back but I need to order some more head bolts before I can put it all together again. |
04-16-2021, 07:19 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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Next up is to see if I can get the electric water pump going.
173879036_756769391692638_7001629810685832613_n.jpg So its pretty simple if you have the loom/plug. The 4 wires are: Ground: White with black stripe, heavy gauge 12v supply: light blue heavy gauge PWM pump speed control: small blue wire pump speed return signal: small green wire So if you are retrofitting and want a simple install, if you connect just the 12v and ground wires, the pump will run full speed constantly. So you could just wire this to a relay that controls the fuel pump perhaps. If you earth out the PWM pump speed control pin, the pump completely stops. If you pulse the signal with a varying duty cycle, it can lower or raise pump speed. Then the return signal wire outputs a square wave (as seen on laptop screen) which you can wire to a digital input on an ECU to monitor pump speed. So this way you can tell if the pump has failed and setup some warnings, rather than waiting for the motor to overheat. So that's handy. |
04-16-2021, 07:36 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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For the ECU install, since mine is a 2005 model it has the 4rows of pins on the ECU. Earlier models with 2 row pins you can buy a DIYBOB or other adapters as it is the same ECU pinout common with some Hondas and other cars.
No such thing available in this case, so I chopped the plugs out of a spare ECU to make an adapter loom. So it could revert to the standard ECU if needed (at least initially, while it had the standard manifold etc on it) 120747876_684250735836824_1175225593040431551_n.jpg.de153393623626adfac4e7f59d60bee4.jpg Then the ITB manifold was 3d printed from HIPS material then covered in some carbon fibre for a bit more strength. Has now been on the car for about 6 months with no issues, (with the 2NZ currently) 130721088_716943965693546_1747835185761600852_n.jpg 126985763_10158031647752198_4786409791080352050_o.jpg |
04-17-2021, 12:06 AM | #6 |
Gen 3 > Gen 2
Drives: NCP131, F-150 Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Red Deer, AB
Posts: 501
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Wouldn't be surprised if you get 150whp out of that setup.
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2014 NCP131 5 Speed 2007 F150 4.2L 5 Speed 2013 Rav4 LE AWD Autotragic - Wife's |
04-17-2021, 12:41 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 405
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i love it i love it i love it! im a sucker for pumped out all motor itb engines, you should get a nice linear and smooth power increase too which i love over forcced induction
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04-17-2021, 11:00 AM | #8 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Looks great! Thanks for sharing.
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04-17-2021, 02:23 PM | #9 |
Drives: |Mr2 Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 55
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i'm picking up a 05 hatchback , i was intending on this very swap.
not as electrically smart for the electric pump, but i was debating some cams (254) with it too. i wouldn't go for the itb's but might do a corolla throttle. will the factory ecu run fine with the increase in compression? i wish there was a way to increase rev limit |
04-17-2021, 07:48 PM | #10 | |
Gen 3 > Gen 2
Drives: NCP131, F-150 Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Red Deer, AB
Posts: 501
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Quote:
Premium will be a must at minimum with that kind of compression and stock timing.
__________________
2014 NCP131 5 Speed 2007 F150 4.2L 5 Speed 2013 Rav4 LE AWD Autotragic - Wife's |
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04-19-2021, 05:02 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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JUN cams arrived today, and I'm happy to report that everything fits up fine, including the cam gears.
Thankfully the Aqua shares the exhaust side part number of the 2004+ normal 1NZ motor, and the intake side will work fine too. Sometimes one of the gears ends up out of alignment, depending on the combination of bits you started with. It's quite hard to turn the cams over by hand, definitely a lot stiffer springs than standard or my 3S motor. Need to get a feeler gauge and shim these and see how far out it is. (or not) |
04-20-2021, 07:01 PM | #12 |
Gen 3 > Gen 2
Drives: NCP131, F-150 Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Red Deer, AB
Posts: 501
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I can't wait to hear this thing at full throttle under load
__________________
2014 NCP131 5 Speed 2007 F150 4.2L 5 Speed 2013 Rav4 LE AWD Autotragic - Wife's |
04-20-2021, 09:10 PM | #13 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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With the cams make sure you have it fully advanced when testing fitment, I know PTV clearance was really tight when I tested myself. Also watch out for ring flutter, I had some issues with that when running over 7k rpms with the ultra low tension prius c rings.
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2014 BSpec Divisional Champion |
04-22-2021, 06:11 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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Progress.
The head is back on properly, cam clearances all within spec after 2-3 goes of juggling the existing shims around. I pick-a-parted a front pulley, so now I can start on an alternator bracket. Funnily enough the light weight alternator kit for my 3S motor, that saves 4KG. Uses a 1NZ alternator. So there's some irony in stealing the brackets from that, in order to mount a 1NZ alternator to a 1NZ. I'll just need an intermediate plate to bolt to the side of the block and stick these on, hopefully. Not the most light weight solution but I'm more about just getting this going for now. Looks like underneath the waterpump will be the place for it, and no AC anymore. One of the now superfluous water outlets was a hose barb that sat with a tapered thread into the back side of the block. Which I replaced with a drain block off bolt I pinched from a dead 3S motor. Easy fix. Also note how the dipstick on this motor nicely bends out of the way, rather than being between number 1 and 2 throttles. Excellent. DSC08424.jpg |
04-22-2021, 09:33 AM | #15 |
daily driver
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very cool
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04-24-2021, 07:03 PM | #16 |
Drives: |Mr2 Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 55
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hey! i meant to ask, how are you doing the power steering pump (if your car had that)
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04-25-2021, 12:06 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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I'm not sure yet.
I am hoping to keep the factory PS arrangement though. But it will depend on how difficult the required brackets are. Just sorting the alternator side first. |
04-25-2021, 12:07 AM | #18 |
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10 Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
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I've got the intake on it now though, a fair bit more clearance now that dipstick tube and alternator isnt an issue!
So I might reprint my manifold so the throttles are the other way up. This way it wont have the ugly linkages and throttle cable on top. (They're not fitted for pic) 176962968_127102146071794_930146381247609613_n.jpg |
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