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Old 02-21-2014, 01:37 AM   #1
abstractmethod
 
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Turbo build - stage 1:D

Hi guys,
just wanted to post some progress shots of my stage 1 turbo build, more so i can keep track and not loose photos in the process.

Purchased my self a 1NZ-FE motor to work on so my car wouldnt be off the road, just landed a job with Samsung and a 2 minute walk from home so wouldnt have mattered any way.

So far we've got the following parts:

* 2ZZ injectors
* Zage manifold (custom one to be built by Brae manifolds down the track, check him out at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Brae-...7816811564704_

*T28 turbo running customer oil and water lines (yes im using both)
* Turbosmart black FPR800 fuel pressure reg
* Turbosmart Kompact plumb back BOV
* Golden eagle black fuel rail
* Microtech LTX-8
* Custom black piping
* Bosch 040 fuel pump - in tank mod needed

Ill keep up to date with some photos as the build progresses.





Last edited by abstractmethod; 02-26-2014 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:10 AM   #2
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All the water lines and oil lines were ordered today, used a mob in Japan who stock Kinugawa turbo's, their stuff has always been really good quality. Will post pics once they arrive and they have been installed.
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:11 AM   #3
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just curious...how much is this build going to cost?
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:15 AM   #4
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There is no budget. Stage 1 will be manifold, turbo, microtech and injectors. Stage 2 will built on a separate motor were I can take time to fit rods, pistons, valves and cam so the car is not taken off the road.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:46 AM   #5
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:43 AM   #6
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So after a lot of thought, research and thinking of building the motor, then installing it, running it in, driving it around, removing it for stage 2, i just decided to bite the bullet and skip straight to stage 2...

Today's progress consisted of removing the intake manifold, water pump, spark plugs, engine mount, timing cover, cams and turbo.

Unfortunately for me i stripped three of the head bolts, will rectify this next monday and finally get the head off, get it sussed out and order rods, pistons, bearings, block guard etc...

I also decided not to go the microtech route, I will be ordering a Haltec P1000 ECU or Link G4.

Here are a few photos from today.







Last edited by abstractmethod; 02-26-2014 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:56 AM   #7
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I believe ARP has a head stud kit now. Let us know if you need any parts for your build, we are very competitive.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
I believe ARP has a head stud kit now. Let us know if you need any parts for your build, we are very competitive.
Hi there and thanks for the reply. Already sent you a Msg just waiting on reply
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:39 PM   #9
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Just be like me and have MI set to speed dial. why do I ,because
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Old 02-27-2014, 04:38 AM   #10
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Haha I'm from Aus so I'd be paying a hefty bill in international call charges.

Doing some research on rods and pistons. Seems Cp-corello are about the only guys doing forged pistons off the shelf... Do MI normally reply quickly?
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:15 PM   #11
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CP is a great choice for pistons. There are several options for rods; pauter, carillo, cunningham, etc.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:10 PM   #12
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Garm do you know what rods require the block to be notched?
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:29 PM   #13
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What's the deal with notching the block? I haven't heard of this needing to be done before?
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:34 PM   #14
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Well the 1NZ block has the crankshaft 3 offset to the bore to improve power stroke pushing angle. It reduces loads in the power stroke but increases stress on the rod on compression. The aftermarket rods being beefier hit the side of the block. Well some do and some don't. Actually I think it's more the side of the bore than the block.
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Old 02-28-2014, 02:47 AM   #15
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I'm still waiting in MI to get back to me regarding rods and piston advice.. I guess most engine workshops will have the ability to notch the block if needed.

Today I ordered my haltech p1000 ecu, wide and sensor and march boost controller which integrates with the p1000.
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:18 AM   #16
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^ I got back to you. You PM'ed me four hours ago.

Quote:
Garm do you know what rods require the block to be notched?
All of them. They are all thicker than stock (that's kind of the point), and so require the mod.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:20 PM   #17
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Thanks mate. I had issues sending you a message for days hahaha. Every time I sent one it wouldn't give me confirmation so I was like "uhhhhhh has it sent".. downside to using this forum from a phone lol
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Old 03-03-2014, 05:09 AM   #18
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So as you know I stripped the head bolts.. Mainly because I used the wrong tool.. finally found the right 12" spline after purchasing 2 supposedly correct splines that were listed in online 1nz-fe engine disassembly threads.. aus delivered engines must use different studs for some reason.. any ways I eventually got the right one $84 later :S ridiculous huh!

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