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Old 05-25-2010, 05:03 PM   #1
darkmoon87
 
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Bringing my car to dealership

Last weekend, I was on my way back from Whistler, and out in the blue all of a sudden the engine light starts blinking and the car won't accelerate.

I think I was on my 4th gear doing 90~100kph, and the acceleration became suddenly very sluggish and car felt as if it lost half of its power.

Then the light kept on blinking and blinking, and when I drove slowly for a few minutes, the light stays on instead of blinking. Then I pulled over and waited for about 5 minutes, while checking the engine bay and stuff but nothing unusual.

After the short stop, I started her again and from that point on, everything became normal. Acceleration was back to normal, but the engine light remained on.

Car feels as if there's nothing wrong but I am just skeptical as to what may have gone wrong under the hood. Bringing it into dealership on friday.
I still have year left on my 3yr factory warrenty so hopefully they will work something out.

My only concern is that I have short ram intake on my car (my only engine mod other than NST pullies). Will they BS me out and won't do it under warrenty because of that?

I remember reading something like dealerships can't refuse to honor warrenty unless they have a direct proof of aftermarket modification being the actual factor of breakdown. T/F?
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:06 PM   #2
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I had the light come on after going over some speed-strip bumbs. It stayed on for some miles, then vanished. Error code read 'ECU failure', but I've driven another 10,000 miles or so, with no issues.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:19 PM   #3
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Flashing Check engine light usually means misfire. You should drop by a parts store to find out if there are any other codes that could indicate what caused the misfire, or at least what cylinder(s).
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:19 PM   #4
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Just swap the OEM intake back in if you are concerned about dealer BS. Depending on the error code, the intake could be a crutch for them, or play absolutely no role in triggering the check engine light.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swidd View Post
I had the light come on after going over some speed-strip bumbs. It stayed on for some miles, then vanished. Error code read 'ECU failure', but I've driven another 10,000 miles or so, with no issues.
I had this before when I was taking it hard a year ago.

Back then, the engine light blinked for 15~20 minutes and after an hour of car being parked and re-starting, the light disappeared.

This time, I was on a high rpm range for a prolonged time because I had many passengers in my car and was traveling on hills all day long. I think this may have caused the same kind of issue where the engine was working way too hard for a long period of time and decided to say "fuck it" and threw me the engine light...?
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markitect View Post
Flashing Check engine light usually means misfire. You should drop by a parts store to find out if there are any other codes that could indicate what caused the misfire, or at least what cylinder(s).
To be honest, this was exactly what ran through my mind when the car acted funny. It felt as if 1 or 2 out of 4 cylinders were malfunctioning, as I mentioned before when I felt the car accelerating "sluggishly".

Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Just swap the OEM intake back in if you are concerned about dealer BS. Depending on the error code, the intake could be a crutch for them, or play absolutely no role in triggering the check engine light.
Not really an option cuz I sold my oem intake...lol
fingers crossed. ;(
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkmoon87 View Post
Last weekend, I was on my way back from Whistler, and out in the blue all of a sudden the engine light starts blinking and the car won't accelerate.

I think I was on my 4th gear doing 90~100kph, and the acceleration became suddenly very sluggish and car felt as if it lost half of its power.

Then the light kept on blinking and blinking, and when I drove slowly for a few minutes, the light stays on instead of blinking. Then I pulled over and waited for about 5 minutes, while checking the engine bay and stuff but nothing unusual.

After the short stop, I started her again and from that point on, everything became normal. Acceleration was back to normal, but the engine light remained on.

Car feels as if there's nothing wrong but I am just skeptical as to what may have gone wrong under the hood. Bringing it into dealership on friday.
I still have year left on my 3yr factory warrenty so hopefully they will work something out.

My only concern is that I have short ram intake on my car (my only engine mod other than NST pullies). Will they BS me out and won't do it under warrenty because of that?

I remember reading something like dealerships can't refuse to honor warrenty unless they have a direct proof of aftermarket modification being the actual factor of breakdown. T/F?

Something very similar happened to me last year. Driving along on freeway at about 75mph, it was hot out, 95F+ and had A/C going, when I came up to a hill and tried to just maintain speed, it was like there was just nothing there. Since there are nothing but idiot lights in my Yaris, I couldn't tell if it was just running hot. But, after turning off the A/C and just letting the car cool down a bit while still driving all the power came back, never saw a CEL though. I am thinking that mine was just a case of "limp mode" cause it was just too hot. You might have had the same thing, but threw a code at the same time. Let us know if you find out anything more, it would be good to know.
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkmoon87 View Post
I think this may have caused the same kind of issue where the engine was working way too hard for a long period of time and decided to say "fuck it" and threw me the engine light...?

engine management systems do not do this without good reason. there is an underlying issue, or bad ecu.
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:12 PM   #9
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I just came back from the dealership.

They said they found a history of cylinder misfiring, but was not able to find any mechanical fault at this moment. They removed the engine light for me after that.

No charges were made. Everything was covered by warrenty and luckily they did not give me hard time with my intake or whatnot.
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Old 05-29-2010, 05:45 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by camelll View Post
Did they give you a list of codes that were stored or as to what cylinder was misfiring? On the paperwork they gave you it should have listed all codes found.

Right after I installed my supercharger I was having misfire issues. This was due to bad wiring by me, but the light would flash and go away and sometimes it would stay on. But the only time it lost power was when it was actually misfiring, even when the cel light was on.

The loss of power sounds like the throttle position sensor to me. When the voltage reading is off this will cause a cel and loss of power. The power is drastically reduced and no matter how much pedal you give it it is only gonna give you like 20 percent power. Now usually if you shut the car off and start it right back up it will be fine and not give you any troubles for awhile but if a code was thrown it will stay until reset.

I believe when the car goes into limp mode it just goes open loop and give you a rich condition to protect itself but I am not sure if it restricts throttle or the transmission but I don't think so. This is just speculation on my behalf though.

Now if you are misfiring the first things I would look at be for vacuum leaks (since you did install an aftermarket intake), coils, plugs and injectors. Another thing to think about is buying a scangauge, they are around 150 bucks but they are a invaluable tool. They can read and reset codes and the gauges are just a bonus. Knowing exactly what code or codes are being thrown is well worth the cash and you can save yourself some money when you get out of warranty if you do throw a code.
Thank you very much for a superbly helpful information.

The code I see on the paper is code P0302.
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Old 05-29-2010, 07:03 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by camelll View Post
No problem. How often are you seeing this condition? The trouble shooting can take awhile if you are only seeing this once every couple of months or longer. But none the less you still want to find out before you run out of warranty if you can. I would think out of the 3 things I have listed that the coil would be the most likely culprit. If you don't feel like doing anything yourself and it happens again I would just ask the dealership to check or try a new coil and or put new plugs in it. But if you want to diagnose it for yourself try this.

Swap coil 1 and coil 2 and wait for it to happen again and then see if it is the same cylinder. If it changes to the cylinder that you swapped the coil to then it is more than likely the coil and needs to be replaced.

When it happens again and it is the same cylinder then you can eliminate the coil. Then swap the plugs and wait for it to happen again. If it changes to the cylinder you swapped the plug to then it is more than likely the plug and needs to be replaced.

When it happens again and if it is still on cylinder 2 after you have swapped the coil and plug from cylinder 2 then I would start looking at the injector.
this happens only when I gun the car to the MAX, like doing corners in 3rd gear while doing 140~160kph. and obviously, I don't push it this much very too often.

as soon as this happens again i will use your advice as a reference.
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:10 AM   #12
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Darkmoon87,

Do you have a tachometer? Any chance you've been bumping the rev limiter when this has occurred? That's what it sounds like to me. Just a thought.

Camelli's plan is sound-if it happens again you'd have narrowed it down to a plug or coil, (most likely) depending on which cylinder had a miss next time.

R2
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:09 PM   #13
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Darkmoon87,

Do you have a tachometer? Any chance you've been bumping the rev limiter when this has occurred? That's what it sounds like to me. Just a thought.

Camelli's plan is sound-if it happens again you'd have narrowed it down to a plug or coil, (most likely) depending on which cylinder had a miss next time.

R2
i wasn't hitting the redline right when the lights flashed but yes when i was doing runs like those, i do hit the redzone a number of times.

tbh im not even too surprised to see yaris screaming in pain since the car wasn't made to be driven this way...
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:53 AM   #14
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Bouncing rev limiter does not throw cel nor cause misfire.
Agreed
. I think you're correct-probably the cylinder 2 coil or plug getting hot and unhappy when it's really getting flogged. I would do as you suggested above. This car should not throw a light just because of hard driving.

R2
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:24 PM   #15
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What was the problem?
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