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Old 09-23-2018, 04:38 PM   #1
Drives: 2000 SCP10, 2001 NCP13
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: CZ
Posts: 54
STEP-BY-STEP PICS: Rust repair on NCP13 rockers/sills, and on almost everything else

Here's the story:

In June, I noticed a Yaris TS being offered rather close to me for a decent price. Everything looked good at first, so I bought it. Unfortunately, upon a close inspection the car turned to be, well, not quite a lemon, more like a drum of pure citric acid: One of the rims had been welded because of a crack, the radiator was damaged, there was a little oil leak from the rear main seal… None of those would be too bad, had that been all.

Unfortunately, the biggest problem was rust. A LOT of it - after taking the skirts off, both rockers crumbled and quite literally fell off, about 50 cm/20 inches on each side. The driver's floor pan did the same thing. And the rear wheel wells initially looked OK, but stabbing them with a screwdriver revealed that they were actually rusted out as well.

I initially considered scrapping it, but then did the math and figured out that repairing all the damage would take a ton of time but not a whole lot of money (certainly less than trying to sue the b*tch that sold it to me), so I decided to go for it.

The following series of photos is mean as an inspiration for anyone who wants to attempt these repairs on their own car. Most of it is not really Yaris-specific, so it's applicable to most other cars. In fact, after this is done, I may end up doing something similar to friend's K11 Nissan Micra - if that happens I'll probably post it, too.

WARNING: This is my first time EVER doing bodywork at this scale, and the car is going to become my next daily driver/do-it-all vehicle, not a show car. As such, my priority is for the repairs to be strong enough for such use but not necessarily pretty (although I do try to make them look somewhat decent).

NOTE: For some spots, I don't have pictures of all the individual steps. I'll do my best to describe them in text, though.



- a small (115/125mm) angle grinder + a cutting disc, a grinding disc, and a wire wheel
- a drill with a step bit
- a die grinder with a cutting wheel, a little air reciprocating saw ("sawzall"), or anything else that can cut in tight spaces where the angle grinder won't fit
- a MIG welder (MMA should work too, but will be a lot harder to work with)
- a set of basic hand tools - different-sized hammers, combination pliers, tongue-and-groove pliers ("channellocks"), locking pliers ("vice grips"), tin snips, punches


- 40-, 80-, 120-, 240-, 400-, 800-, 1500-, and 2000-grit sandpaper
- rust converter
- primer, color-matched paint, clear coat
- anti-corrosion undercoating
- body fillers
- zinc or zinc-alumin(i)um weld-through primer
- seam sealer
- fiberglass mat & resin
- new sheet metal (1 and 1.5 mm thick, preferably even some 2mm)

In the next post, we'll look at the right rocker panel and start the repairs.

Last edited by praivo; 09-23-2018 at 05:45 PM.
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