How do I cure a lean condition?

[LtNoogie]

What's my next step? It appears that with the Blitz supercharger and its piggyback fuel controller, I'm running lean.

Should I swap in larger injectors? The piggyback fuel controller is not adjustable so I cannot change the duty cycle any further.

Before: air/fuel mixture ran between 11.35 and 13.6

After: air/fuel mixture ran between 13.45 and 14.91

[PHXDEMON]

I would say bigger injectors as a first step. Maybe an upgraded fuel pump as well

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

I would say bigger injectors as a first step. Maybe an upgraded fuel pump as well

fuel pump is fine

bigger injectors would definitely help. source a set from a celica gts or a scion tC (i run tC injectors) you can find them both for cheap (i got mine for free, make friends with a service tech at toyota)


until then, STAY OUT OF BOOST, you're gonna blow your engine running lean like that on boost.

[Nexus1155]

Whats the duty cycle like on the injectors already?

if you don't have the ability to change the constant of the injectors with the controller, make sure you scale properly so you wont have to do too many adjustments.

[ddongbap]

Lean is no good.

[cali yaris]

Just curious, why were the two dynos done in different gears?

Call Blitz USA. THAT is the first thing to do. Show them the problem. If you further modify your car to fix something that should be working properly in the first place, they are not going to be helpful at all.

You could also share on here under what conditions your getting those readings:

Idle cold =
Idle warm =
Boost off, light pedal =
Boost off, WOT =
Boost on, light pedal =
Boost on WOT =

The Blitz r-Vit gives some control over air/fuel. Maybe they'll give you one.

[thebarber]

hard to say what to do...is it your fuel injectors being maxed out or the blitz ecu being unable to cope with the s/c AND i/h/e?

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by ddongbap

Lean is no good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhQMAmnOBxA

Lean back sucks even more

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by thebarber

hard to say what to do...is it your fuel injectors being maxed out or the blitz ecu being unable to cope with the s/c AND i/h/e?

well, considering the xB GREDDY turbo kit does not upgrade injectors, i would guess that stock inj should handle the duty cycle just fine on an SC application


http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by Tamago

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhQMAmnOBxA

Lean back sucks even more

I don't know what that had to do with this thread but I enjoyed the mix.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I don't know what that had to do with this thread but I enjoyed the mix.

the captain obvious "lean is no good" post.... i figured i'd add my own "obvious" post.


the remix is good because snoop is in it.. snoop can fix any crappy song

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by Tamago

well, considering the xB GREDDY turbo kit does not upgrade injectors, i would guess that stock inj should handle the duty cycle just fine on an SC application


http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

I've actually not had any problems with detonation so today's readings surprised me. This gives me more incentive to get off my ass and install my wideband a/f gauge. I sent a message to yarisdarkness, who works for Blitz, since their website does not list a email address.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I've actually not had any problems with detonation so today's readings surprised me. This gives me more incentive to get off my ass and install my wideband a/f gauge. I sent a message to yarisdarkness, who works for Blitz, since their website does not list a email address.

make sure and install the wideband PRE cat..

what did you buy? i have an innovate LC1

[LtNoogie]

Originally Posted by Tamago

make sure and install the wideband PRE cat..

what did you buy? i have an innovate LC1

I screwed up and had the bung welded on after the first cat because I did not want to pay to have the muffler shop drop the front of the midpipe to put a bung near the header. I'll bite the bullet and have them do it correctly. The first bung is currently plugged.

I have an Autometer C2 with digital LED readout and the colored LEDs running across the outside edge. I also have a C2 Vacuum/Boost gauge.

I've been putting off installing them because I hate running cables into the car.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I've been putting off installing them because I hate running cables into the car.

me too man.. when i ran the boost line to the AEM unit i wanted to kill myself.

how long is the wire from the actual o2 sensor to the "brain" unit? the LC1 is super short, i had to really fight with mine to get it in place. it now resides in the passenger footwell, doublesided taped to the "tunnel"

i just noticed i use " " a lot

[LtNoogie]

Unless I'm missing something, the O2 sensor is on a 1 foot harness with a connector at the end. A 9 foot harness goes between it and the meter itself.

The data logger in the pdf file does not come with the kit.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

Unless I'm missing something, the O2 sensor is on a 1 foot harness with a connector at the end. A 9 foot harness goes between it and the meter itself.

The data logger in the pdf file does not come with the kit.

1 foot is really , really short.

you'll probably want to have the bung welded near where the shift linkage comes thru the tunnel, then route the cable thru that cover and put the "brain" up under the center console.

[LtNoogie]

Really really short. I need to jack up the car (onto stands of course), crawl underneath, and figure out the routing long before I take it to the muffler shop. There's a car stereo shop right next to them. I'm tempted to ask the installers if they'll run the cables on the side for cash.

Are the entry points on an AT the same as a MT?