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10-25-2013, 08:45 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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Quick Turbo Question
Which side determines how fast a turbo will spool?
The Compressor A/R or the Turbine A/R? The reason I ask is because I see this; Fast Spool, 0.42 A/R Compressor, 0.86 A/R Turbine Thanks
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
10-25-2013, 10:04 PM | #2 |
Obsessed with 1.5L
Drives: '10 PW Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2011
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Both...but turbine is more important.
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10-27-2013, 02:51 PM | #3 |
Turbine A/R .. determines turbo spool up speed
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05 Scion tC allmotor 350+ hp 9.34@144mph 05 Scion tC sfwd 880hp 9.96@147mph 05 Scion xB 280hp 12.97@104mph 07 Toyota Yaris 357hp 12.80@107mph |
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10-27-2013, 09:06 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
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so ideally a small turbine is required ? What does the compressor A/R determine ?
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
10-27-2013, 11:40 PM | #5 |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
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The better question is what are you trying to do
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
10-28-2013, 01:06 AM | #6 | |
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straight from Garrett website:
Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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10-28-2013, 01:02 PM | #7 |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
10-28-2013, 11:44 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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Thanks much, that explains everything and..
I'm going boosted of course, even if it's just 6lbs
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
10-29-2013, 11:14 AM | #9 |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
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Understood, but in order to provide any real assistance we need to know your goals. There are still some folks around that can give you solid info, but also as well one of the first suggestions is to look at the Zage kit that MicroImageOnline sells and for that you can contact cali yaris especially if you are looking to go with 6psi.
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
10-23-2014, 06:20 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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Some more turbo questions:
I'm gonna be tuning with an AEM F/IC 1) Do I need to keep the factory O2 sensor? 2) Do I need to keep the factory MAF? 3) Can I just splice in extra wires to extend the above sensors to relocate them to where they need to be? I'm still in the process of getting things together so I'm sure I'll have more questions soon. -Justin
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10-23-2014, 06:57 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Yes to all 3. An AEM F/IC is a piggyback, so the OEM ECM is still doing the work and the F/IC is just supplementing it, so the OEM ECM still needs its sensor inputs. If you went with an AEM EMS, which is a standalone, then you could switch to a MAP sensor and only run a good wideband AFR sensor to feed the EMS.
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10-23-2014, 08:16 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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Thanks a lot, I will be extending the wires then.
What is the FIC MAF Clamp all about? I intend the run the injectors(1ZZ) using the FIC only, is that a good idea? Here's a look at the Manifold & Turbo so far;
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
10-23-2014, 08:33 PM | #13 |
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I like that manifold.
The MAF clamp feature of the F/IC prevents the ECM from seeing boost (i.e. out of range values from the MAF that would cause the ECM to throw a trouble code).
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10-23-2014, 08:54 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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Thanks, I got the idea from boostedxa :)
I'm off from work Saturday so I'll begin mounting everything. I'm in need of the oil feed & return lines so I'll have to order those from eBay (local stores want $300 XCD)
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
10-24-2014, 11:10 AM | #15 |
Drives: 09 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: VA
Posts: 49
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Damn dude that looks sick!! good luck with the turbo hopefully the mounting and everything else turns out great.
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10-24-2014, 03:56 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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Thanks much, I'll be sure to update you guys with any progress I make.
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
11-09-2014, 05:57 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2002 JDM Vitz 1.3 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Antigua & Barbuda
Posts: 287
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My sandwich adaptor and oil lines arrived today. Just need a few more couplers and boost/oil pressure gauges.
Question: 1) Should I use Teflon tape on everything I have to screw in (to avoid leaks)? 2) How does the factory 1NZ turbo Vitz read boost? 3) What kind of oil do you guys recommend?
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2000 JDM Vitz [2NZ-FE Crap-otmatic] < Now Manual Conversion complete Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/itzkingjustin |
11-09-2014, 07:21 PM | #18 |
Drives: Vitz RS Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posts: 272
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1) yes you can but do it neat if you decide to as any tape that blocks a passage can be the end of a turbo or even the engine. There is a liquid thread seal that can be purchased that works good and will avoid blockages. Those couplings/fittings are designed to prevent leaks.
2) I have no idea wish I had a turbo vitz to tell you. You wud need at least a 2 bar map sensor (1 bar vacuum and 1 bar boost) wired to your management of choice and the clip the MAF sensor voltage at atmospheric pressure. 3) Use the same oil you usually use. Turbos are designed to be used with a wide variety of oils. What is more important is using the correct oil restrictor for your turbo. Too much or too little oil pressure to a turbo is what destroys the turbo. Your turbo looks like a chine turbo therefore you should prime the oil system before starting ( unplug all coils and injectors) and tumble the car with the oil return disconnected. Then start the car only when oil drains from the oil return line. This will ensure that the turbo is receiving oil. When I had a chine T2860 turbo I had a radiator repair place weld close the oil supply banjo bolt and then I re-drilled a smaller hole to limit oil pressure to the turbo. Garrett website indicates the oil restrictor size for journal and ball bearing turbos. Or contact the turbo supplier and ask them if a restrictor is needed then ask them again lol. Sorry I think I got carried away. I just miss having a turbo charged car and remembering all the little projects I had to do. |
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