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Old 10-17-2011, 06:28 AM   #19
Klink10
 
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Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback
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Ras....The pic supplied by CT Scott in your 2nd link shows very clearly the 2nd bolt holding the alt. to the engine. The 1st being the one that you can see on top holding it to the adjustment arm. The whole idea is to loosen the alt. to allow it to swivel taking tension off enough to unwrap the belt from around the pulleys. You need to loosen the upper bolt, loosen the lower bolt thus allowing it to swivel or move forwards or rearwards on the loosend bottom bolt. The kicker is the bottom bolt can be a bear. This is where proper tools and some diligence comes in. Tools being the right drive sizes and adapters and ratchets to get in there and securely hold that bolt head allowing you to apply enough force to get it loose. If I remember right I used a 1/2 in drive for initial loosening and the switched to 3/8 for removal. (Removed alt cause I was replacing pulleys). Another tip is to look at where the upper bolt passes thru the adjustment arm. Draw a line on the alt with a magic marker at that point making sure it leaves a mark on the arm. When everything is back together and the belt is correctly mounted, rotate the alt. towards the front of the vehicle to take up tension. Here is where the big crowbar comes into play. You need to find a place on the block where you can place the crowbar to leverage the alt. out to a point close to but not there where the mark is on the alt. and the arm. Be sure you don't come close to anything that is not engine and alt. housing and the possibility of slipping with it is eliminated. I wrapped mine with a cloth shop rag. You should come up just short of that point because we are dealing with a new belt. The just short of might not be noticeable but I am leary of going beyond that point. That brings in might be wrong belt size. Okay all is on and bolts are tight and a thumb press on the belt indicates the belt is tight. Start motor and allow to run or go to store or whatever. Belt has broken in now so loosen both bolts rotate alt. forward again to take up that break-in slack and you should be at the magic marker point. Tighten everything back down and you have just become an official belt replacement tech on a Yaris.

I hope this helps and I didn't confuse things. Make sure of your capabilities cause I don't want a comeback saying well I did this and I broke this. That break this can be expensive. Overtighten can make you into a master tech cause then we are looking at waterpump.

On to Yariseggvti:

Sounds as thought all you need to do is adjust the tension or snug it up a little. But while you are there take a look at it. Feel dry?, Notice any cracks or splits? Maybe need to replace.

Whew, done for the day, think I'll take a nap.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:56 AM   #20
NZ-FE Vios
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Very well said. I just assume everyone knows their way around an engine compartment. Again, very thorough.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:54 AM   #21
macz100
 
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'09 yaris HB , AT , 71K .
bought the belt , loosened the top bolt . but the bottom just won't come loose. used wd-40 . i have an extra long ratchet but am hesitant to put that much force and break something. any other suggestions.?
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:11 PM   #22
esse10
 
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belt

Quote:
Originally Posted by macz100 View Post
'09 yaris HB , AT , 71K .
bought the belt , loosened the top bolt . but the bottom just won't come loose. used wd-40 . i have an extra long ratchet but am hesitant to put that much force and break something. any other suggestions.?
I did mine two weeks ago and it was a little challange to loosen up the bottom bolt. I used a swivel ratchet with a long handle and put something behind the ratchet head and the frame to keep the socket from slipping off as you get it loose. Make sure you use a six point socket not an eight better chances of not rounding up the head. Putting a little pb blaster as best you can will help also just don't over spray that stuff is strong. Don't forget to put anti-sieze on the threads when you put the bottom bolt back on for next time. Good luck to ya
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