DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step)

[rob1005]

Just finished installing and works perfectly. Wish the 07s had a cruise light on the dash though. Oh well, thanks for the good DIY Scott.

I was wondering how you managed to feed the clutch switch wires through the firewall. I gave up because of limited space and just fed the wires back through the passenger side grommet.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by rob1005

Just finished installing and works perfectly. Wish the 07s had a cruise light on the dash though. Oh well, thanks for the good DIY Scott.

I was wondering how you managed to feed the clutch switch wires through the firewall. I gave up because of limited space and just fed the wires back through the passenger side grommet.

With the giant grommet on the driver's side, where the main cable harness goes through, there are two small nipples that you can poke through. You have to first go through with something sharp, and then the wire will feed through.

[Ratz]

For DIY cruise control

When drilling 1-1/8” opening in the steering wheel trim/cover, I used small square of black winds surfing jacket neoprene (just to cover up guts of the switch) and then used sliced windshield washer hose to finish the edge. What can I say , my wife’s attention to details is admirable.

[scape]

Originally Posted by Vince87

Hi all ! as promised in the other thread, here's a Step by Step DIY for the Cruise Control installation (swith method) on 07-08 liftback Yaris (should be pretty similar on the sedan)...

I just to say a special thanks to CTScott for the discovery, the instructions and for his help through the process and also to nickhjort for being the guinea pig for this model.

Enjoy !

Great, quick read. I have question, is the clutch switch just necessary if you do not want the engine to rev out during gear changes while the CC is engaged? I am planning a 1600 mile trip and don't know if I have time to purchase the clutch switch ass.

What kind of wire is necessary, I have a radioshack and a homeimprovement store nearby (and a wallyworld,) I don't know if any of them sell durable wiring-- maybe the home improvement store for inwall wiring.

Did your radioshack, local parts store actually carry resistors?

Any advice from someone who has completed the install is great!

Thanks :)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scape

Great, quick read. I have question, is the clutch switch just necessary if you do not want the engine to rev out during gear changes while the CC is engaged? I am planning a 1600 mile trip and don't know if I have time to purchase the clutch switch ass.

What kind of wire is necessary, I have a radioshack and a homeimprovement store nearby (and a wallyworld,) I don't know if any of them sell durable wiring-- maybe the home improvement store for inwall wiring.

Did your radioshack, local parts store actually carry resistors?

Any advice from someone who has completed the install is great!

Thanks :)

The clutch switch can be bypassed, but it's pretty easy to forget and touch the clutch while in cruise control mode.

For the wire, any stranded 18 to 20 AWG wire is fine.

Radioshack will probably have the resistors as part of a multipack.

If you want to do the OEM stalk method I have all of the parts (stalk, clutch switch, ECM pin, etc.) on hand and can ship overnight or two day if you need them quickly. Here's the link to my DIY for the OEM stalk method:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33750

[scape]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The clutch switch can be bypassed, but it's pretty easy to forget and touch the clutch while in cruise control mode.

For the wire, any stranded 18 to 20 AWG wire is fine.

Radioshack will probably have the resistors as part of a multipack.

If you want to do the OEM stalk method I have all of the parts (stalk, clutch switch, ECM pin, etc.) on hand and can ship overnight or two day if you need them quickly. Here's the link to my DIY for the OEM stalk method:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33750

thanks for the package deal :) but I think i'll wait on the stalk, not sure if I want to spend so much on that yet, nor do I want to dive in to changing the steering wheel stuff so close to my trip. I think I'll hit up radioshack today for the resistors. I have some extra 18awg speaker wire I guess I'll test out unless you suggest not to?
for the jumper, should I just drop in the wire and solder it to the correct locations. I'll probably eventually get the clutch switch but I just want to be able to turn it on and off really, for now.

out of curiosity how much is your kit? :)

oh yeah, from past experience: does braking automatically disengage the CC (since it is ECU i would say yes)?

thanks for the quick reply

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scape

thanks for the package deal :) but I think i'll wait on the stalk, not sure if I want to spend so much on that yet, nor do I want to dive in to changing the steering wheel stuff so close to my trip. I think I'll hit up radioshack today for the resistors. I have some extra 18awg speaker wire I guess I'll test out unless you suggest not to?
for the jumper, should I just drop in the wire and solder it to the correct locations. I'll probably eventually get the clutch switch but I just want to be able to turn it on and off really, for now.

out of curiosity how much is your kit? :)

oh yeah, from past experience: does braking automatically disengage the CC (since it is ECU i would say yes)?

thanks for the quick reply

For the temporary clutch switch bypass, you can either solder in a jumper or find a small male spade that will fit tightly into the connector along side of the pin.

Kit pricing:

CC Stalk with wiring and mounting screws: $40
ECM connector pin: $5
Connector D3 pins: $5
MT CC clutch switch: $15

[scape]

quick question on those momentary switches: I found a few at radioshack but they are low-amp rated (like .5A).. I noticed the referenced digikey switches are around 3 amps. what's the max rated amperage I should shoot for?

i found a few packs of resistors at the local radioshack, but none at 240. looks like i'll be soldering them together to make 240. they're rated at 5% tolerance, if combining them would the tolerance inherently go up?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scape

quick question on those momentary switches: I found a few at radioshack but they are low-amp rated (like .5A).. I noticed the referenced digikey switches are around 3 amps. what's the max rated amperage I should shoot for?

i found a few packs of resistors at the local radioshack, but none at 240. looks like i'll be soldering them together to make 240. they're rated at 5% tolerance, if combining them would the tolerance inherently go up?

Any momentary switch is fine. You are switching an analog input to a microcontroller, so the current is negligible.

For the resistors the tolerance means how far they can be off, so a 100 ohm, 5% can be 95 to 105 ohms. Since it is a plus or minus rating, chaining them together means that they can cancel each other out, or add to the percentage off in either direction. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the actual resistance of each.

[scape]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Any momentary switch is fine. You are switching an analog input to a microcontroller, so the current is negligible.

For the resistors the tolerance means how far they can be off, so a 100 ohm, 5% can be 95 to 105 ohms. Since it is a plus or minus rating, chaining them together means that they can cancel each other out, or add to the percentage off in either direction. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the actual resistance of each.

thx for the quick reply. what then would be the permitted resistance ratings to get this to work? I plan on just using 2 switches, listed is 240 and 390-- how close should i be to that?

[scape]

actually looking back at the wiring for two buttons, one single resistor of 630ohm seems like it would work-- between the two buttons on positive; still not sure about the set-cc pushbutton resistances range though

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scape

thx for the quick reply. what then would be the permitted resistance ratings to get this to work? I plan on just using 2 switches, listed is 240 and 390-- how close should i be to that?

You can use any value within these ranges:
216 to 264 ohms for one between resume and on/off
351 to 426 ohms for the one between set and resume
819 to 1001 ohms for the one between set and cancel

For the two button method, a single resistor 567 to 690 ohms can replace the 240 and 390 ohm resistors.

For current rating of the resistors, like the switches, it really doesn't matter, so 1/8 W, 1/4 W, 1/2 W, etc. are all fine.

[scape]

ah ok great, that helps big time in finding a proper resistor. why is it necessary to use the different clutch switch assembly, can the original clutch start-switch assembly be tapped in to?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scape

ah ok great, that helps big time in finding a proper resistor. why is it necessary to use the different clutch switch assembly, can the original clutch start-switch assembly be tapped in to?

No, they are two different switch functions. The existing one detects that the pedal is fully pressed for starting and the CC one detects the initial press of the clutch pedal.

[spectra]

to do this do I need to buy a new terminal pin for the ecm? where can I get this?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by spectra

to do this do I need to buy a new terminal pin for the ecm? where can I get this?

I have the ECM pins available.

[spectra]

thanks so much! I got everything in and the test run went perfectly!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by spectra

thanks so much! I got everything in and the test run went perfectly!

Nice! And, in plenty of time for your road trip.